“Until the start of the demolition in 2018, the neighborhood north of Fuxing Road, around the Old West Gate, was the largest slice of authentic “old Shanghai” anywhere downtown. And among this cluster of winding streets, few possessed as much diversity and charisma as Jinjiafang. A walk down this route was a mesmerizing experience, and at the piazza in the eastern end of the street, pensioners loitered in canopied outdoor cafes and mahjong parlors, while domesticated pigeons fluttered over the rooftops.”

“An influential family named Jin lived at Jinjiafang in the Qing era. There must have been successful officials among the Jins, since a memorial arch in honor of one of them gave the street its name – Jin Family Arch (Jinjiafang 金家坊). The family was said to have an affinity for arts: a private theater inside their estate saw the first production of the famous huju opera Rendezvous at the Nunnery. It is hardly surprising that the lead female character in the play was also surnamed Jin.”