Creating a backup after setting up and adjusting a R1000 system can be performed by using the RPP1000 software.

In addition, when the system needs to be exchanged, all settings from the old system can be easily transferred.

NEW: With the new RPP1000 version it is possible to modify the parameters of the E20, UDK20, I20 and L20 Double Sheet Systems.

For the E20, UDK20, I20 and L20 Double Sheet Systems it is also possible to perform preliminarily settings and save them. When the system is installed later in a plant, all settings can be transferred easily saving time. 

Existing backups of data made previously with RPPXP and RPP7 software can be easily converted and transferred by using the RPP1000 software.

Last but not least, another novelty is the simple export of data as PDF. The data will be stored as a PDF file containing plain text. A PDF printer is therefore not necessary.

Basically you have backup slots 01-99 in a directory on your SD card named backup. This creates one or more files that archive all of the content of the projects (1-16) with all of the banks (A-J) of samples and patterns, into the file. When you restore a backup, it is going to replace whatever is on your SP404 mk2 internal project/sample/pad memory with the contents of the backup.

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Thanks NearTao,

I saw your videos. I will take a look at your manual if that might answer my questions.

I am aware of what options there are, just curious about how people use it.

Especially the fact that the SP uses naming project 1-16. What do people do with project 50, 100 etc?

Anybody have workflow tips about that?

Do people just backup the whole state of the SP up till backup 99 and then start using a new SD card and start over again?

Maybe that is the easiest way.

The SP404 mk2 can have 01-99 backups, and as I mentioned before, and it is a single archive, that it splits (I believe) on 1gb file size boundaries. When you backup, it replaces all of the stuff above labelled as SP404mk2/ with the contents of the backup. This makes it complicated to work with backups/restores because it will erase all of the projects currently loaded into your SP404 mk2 and replace it with the contents of the backup.

EDIT EDIT : you can record just like this in bank mode! but mk2 loads with ext sync disabled on boot. when external clock is being received shift + 11 enables EXT SYNC in bank mode. (this is not mentioned in version of manual i currently have)

you can then use same audio trigger method to record with normal sampling mode and end snap. loop bpm and length are set seem pretty usable, if whole numbers.

Thanks again NearTao,

this is sort of what I was looking for.

If my first 16 projects are full I will at first make a full backup but I will also export the projects 1-16, rename them.

Then on SP I will delete project1, start a new project there, which I will export and give a new name.

So as I understand it right I can import a project that I renamed to spot project 1 and for the SP that will be named project 1.

I don't really know (I'd hazard a guess and say probably not but don't quote me) but I don't think I would go poking around a circuit board that was powered up unless it was with a probe/scope to check something. I certainly would not change the battery when it was powered up any more than I would do that in a PC.

I think the previous poster is right about not trying to replace the battery with the synth powered up. When I had my JD800 I changed the battery once, and it was quite a job opening that thing up. I don't remember whether internal memory is lost during a battery change, but I don't think so. But I had all my sounds stored on ram cards back then, so it wouldn't have been an issue. I would suggest having your data backed up in some way especially if you have a lot of custom programmed sounds like I did.

Many batteries on synths are soldered in....it's good to replace the battery holder with a clip battery holder....they have a very strong clip and it will never fall out and it really makes it easier whenever it needs a new one, and it's always touchy getting the battery hot enough to take solder without killing the battery....

The prongs on the clip battery holder are probably spaced perfectly to get soldered into the board which would be the way to go....make sure polarity is right when doing this....heat is not such an issue when putting in a clip battery holder (within reason).....make sure the tip on your soldering iron is super clean (use a file) for better heat transfer....

Always backup all data to your computer and test it to make sure it saved correctly....a good way is to slightly change a voice name and that will show you......never try to do work on a board while it's powered up....you can really screw it up......also touch a cold water pipe before doing anything to remove any static charge from your body.....that can screw up micro circuit components....it's easy to find editors / librarians for synths free online....don't pay for one.....if you need one, this is the link where I got mine:

I would download it in Firefox or Internet Explorer......Google Chrome is screwed up lately and says files are malicious that are completely fine (I scanned it with Avast Antivirus before uploading it).....the other day Google Chrome told me that files I was downloading from Microsoft were malicious (like Microsoft would do that).....don't believe it......Google Chrome probably says any file with a .zip or .exe file extension is bad to cover their butts.....I always scan anything I download with Avast before unzipping, opening or installing it as a precaution.....I quit using AVG Antivirus quite a long time ago because it wouldn't let me use Zone Alarm (firewall).....originally AVG would allow me to use Zone Alarm, but after a certain version I couldn't anymore.....other than that AVG seemed to work good too.....

I guess this next link proves my point......I took the EXACT SAME FOLDER and instead of selecting "ZIP' when I zipped it, I selected "RAR" and Google Chrome lets you download it and says nothing bad about it.....

I present you now with the last in the series: The Missing Manual for the Roland Boutique JX-03 Synthesizer. The JX3P was a frustrating synth for me. It was one of my first Roland Keyboards, and while I knew the Juno-6 so well, I did not have the PG-200 to program the JX. So it was a struggle, and I felt really discouraged until I finally stumbled upon a programmer. Then it unlocked doors which completely changed my mind about the entire MKS series, the idea of satellite programers, and more.

Refer to the legend above to see what I was attempting to create, and enjoy, modify, or discard these patches. They are yours to do with what you will. The idea here was not to style you out with some heart stopping freebies to make me look cool, but rather to engage you with your own equipment, and show you just how easy it is to save, backup, and share patches for these amazing little synthesizers. I hope you dig it, and are already planning a huge patch swap in the very near future.

Back in 2009 I was approached by a very talented Canadian guitarist who wanted to be able to control both vintage Roland 24 pin GR-series synthesizers and modern Roland 13 pin GK-series synthesizers with one guitar, either a 13 or 24 pin guitar.

The SBC-1324 is the unit I built to meet this need. The unit has both 13 and 24 pin inputs, and a master analog switch to select between the two. There are six amplifiers for each string input, used primarily to boost the 13 pin signals to the 24 pin format, but they can also be used individually to amplify any single string input, whether 13 or 24 pin.

Journey guitarist Neal Schon was frequently seen in the early eighties playing a Roland G-505 guitar paired with the GR-300. Schon is not usually thought of as a 'Strat' player, much less a guitar synthesist, but he makes great use of the G-505/GR-300. An outstanding track is the tune 'Valley of the Kings', using the 'Duet' mode of the GR-300.

The M-16C was part of a trio of memory cartridges. Along with the M-16C there is the very rare M-32C, and the M-64C. Inside the M-16C is a 8 x 2K static RAM chip with a lithium battery to power the chip and protect the memory contents.

The original projected life span of the battery was five years, but many of these batteries are still at work twenty-five years later. However, I have seen a few GR-700 circuit boards, and a few M-16Cs, with dead batteries. Replacing the battery is a bit of work, you will need some desoldering tools, and patience getting the pins lined up when installing the new battery.

I purchased 8K memory chips for $5 each in November of 2009, from Surplus Electronics. These chips were 8K (8192-word) x 8 CMOS SRAM chips, 5 volt operation. Check out the link below for more details on the specs of the memory chip required.

I have done this modification on several M-16C cartridges with great success. The photos below show a modification I did to a M-16C. You will notice that when I did this conversion, I also replaced the backup battery. The size of the 8K chip is slightly larger than the 2K chip, so I used a Dremel tool to slightly enlarge the area inside the M16-C case. Full details of M-16C to M-64C conversion.

If this topic is already covered, please point me to it. Otherwise, the SOUND LIST from the Roland site lists the SCENES, and TONES, and describes the BANK for the TONES. I get all the BANKS listed, except for the CMN, which I am guessing means COMMON, but that may be a faux pas on my part. I would really like to incorporate some the of sounds listed in the BANK CMN section, but I cannot find them. Please help!!

Welcome to the forums, Kathleen. I know nothing myself about the internals of the RD-88, but check out this video from Piano Man Chuck and see if he talks about it . If not, send him a PM, I would bet he knows the answer to your question. 152ee80cbc

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