Ring Sizer Online

A ring should fit easily over your knuckle, you should be able to get it on without struggle and then have a slight pull at the knuckle when removing it. You may need to twist the ring 1-2 times to get it off. Proper sizing is more of a personal preference than a perfect science.

Our UK Ring Sizers use the British Standard measurements. This means that there are 26 different ring measurements ranging from letter A to letter Z. From one letter to another the ring circumference goes up by increments of 1.25mm, with half sizes in between.

Ring Sizer Online

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AN IMPORTANT NOTE ON RINGS

We are happy to accept returns and exchanges on rings between the sizes of J and Q. For rings outside of these sizes we cannot accept them back because they have been especially sized for your order.

We are happy to offer a 30-day return policy on all rings purchased through My Bridal Ring. Rings must be without engraving, and in original condition to be fully refunded. The ring must be returned with the original packaging and if a diamond certificate accompanied the order, the certificate must be returned with the original packaging or a fee will be applied.

My fiance (eek!) and I are ordering my engagement ring online and aren't quite sure how to figure out my ring size. We've walked into a couple mall jewelers and asked to be sized, but all they did was let me try on some stock sizing rings very quickly. From that, it seems that I'm about a 4.5, but I'd really like a more precise measurement because the 4.5's felt a little wobbly, and the designer I'm ordering from offers quarter sizes. Plus, I don't really know how it's supposed to feel, and store clerks at these jewelers (understandably, since I'm not buying from them) did not want to spend much time with me. I'm also confused because I tried to size myself with paper at home and it's telling me I'm closer to a 6!

How do I get a professional jeweler to give me my true ring size without annoying them since I won't be purchasing from them? I'm terrified of ordering the wrong size, but we want to order ASAP because we are waiting to tell family and friends until we have the ring.

Hi, I am looking for some help/advice on how to add ring size options to my product pages selling rings. At the moment they only way I can see to do this is to add variants, however I don't want/need to a have a new variant for every ring size as its one product with no price changes, I just need people to be able to order the ring in the size they require it to be made.

If anyone can help or offer advice that would be great. I also have an Etsy store and adding ring size options is very easy on this platform, I can add as many I want with out it changing the overall product quantity (which should remain at 1), I suppose I'm looking for something like this, or a way to recrate these options.

But when it comes to creating a new block in the schema section (I've found this within the code on the product.liquid file) and then rendering the block in the liquid section I'm at a complete loss. I don't really want to play about with it too much as I just don't get it.

I love the look and feel of the bentwood rings,but the only ones I could find are a bit plain for me. If I'm going to have a wooden ring, It's got to show off my skills a little, right? So had some time and paitence, so I thought I'd take it up a notch and show you how it's done. Since I couldn't find a very detailed tutorial when I got started, I thought this might be helpful. Although I have a lathe, I did not use it in any of these rings. The beauty of the bentwood ring is the simplicity and ease of construction with minimal tools. I did this ring and tutorial pictures in my living room on the coffee table in 4 hours.

Wood: I like cutting my own veneers of the table saw... I cu tthe 1 inch strips myself, it's nice to play around with the thicknesses for wrapping. Thinner is usually better, unless the wood is too grainy and porous. The good thing is, it only taks a small board to get about 20 rings worth of wood. Also, I have a small stock of veneer, from a friend... you can get it online, don't get the sticky backed stuff. you just want plain wood veneer.

Sanding: I just glue sandpaper to thicker cuts of veneer for good sanding tools. Get the auto sandpaper from anywhere, Walmart has it, I sand 3-4 steps up to 2000 grit for a good shine. Also, I;ve wrapped some sandpaper around a pencil and around a rubber glue tube for sanding the inside of the ring. again, super easy, super cheap.

A ring sizer is great, but you don't need it. Just try your ring around a bunch of sockets and use the one the fits the a little loose. If it's tight, then your right will be too big when it's finished. Better to makeit slightly small and sand the inside to fit the finger. If your making the ring for a friend, then just have them measure the inner diameter of a ring in Millimeters, and use a socket that's about a millimeters smaller than that.

Boil your piece of veneer for 10-20 minutes, until it is soft enough to roll into a cirle about the size of the ring you want to make. tape it around and let it conform to a spool for a while. it doesn't need to dry out all the way. If it splits or splinters when you wrap it, like in the picture with my thumb, then it's either too thick a veneer, or you need to boil it longer. It should be very pliable. Note that you need to wrap it immediately after taking it out of the water. A matter of seconds will make it harder to wrap, as it will start cooling down and setting. When I do it, I like to store 5-10 pieces wrapped up in tape to dry for later rings. Once they are dried bent, all you have to do is dip them in a bowl of water for a few second to make them workable again. The best centers for your ring are very hardwoods cut to very thin veneers. My best luck has been with walnut and cherry. Softer woods tend to crack and crease in the initial rolling, though it is doable with a thinner veneer. Softer woods don't hold shape so well, so they will be thicker in the final product to have any considerale strength. For an inlayed ring, the core is only really seen on the inside of the ring anyways, so use something hard. If it's a plain ring, then use whatever you want.

3. Dry-wrap the wood for alignment. If you don't do this, you will end up wrapping a candy-cane swirl, not a ring. Make sure that you are wrapping it straight with the way the veneer is cut. If it's off alignment and you try to force it straight, you will end up with huge gaps in the wrap, which WILL show up later,and make it weak.

4. Wood consistency... It needs to be soaked, then dried, then glued. The soaking opens up the pores, then you have to dry it off so the water comes out of the pores, so the wood can be infused with super glue. If it's too wet, the glue will set in the water and turn white. Too dry, and the wood won't soak up the glue, and you'll have a weak ring. The wood should be bent in a spool but still pliable. I soak it then dry it with a cloth, like my jeans, then wait a minute or two.

5. Once you have the alignment right, then you can tack it together with a line of super glue. Not just a dot. You want the whole width of the ring glued. As you continue, there needs to be plenty of glue as you roll it and let it dry. I let it dry a little, then wrap more, let it dry a little, wrap more... and so on... til it's done.

3. Sand the edges by holding the ring flat on a piece of sandpapr, and rubbing itback and forth. Put pressure on the high-sides to even out the ring and make it parallel to the other side/edge. Don't do it too much, we;ll do it again later after we put on the decor... But make sure there's no cracks in the edge

Bentwood rings are strong because the core is wrapped,a nd there's no cross-grain like a normal wood ring, to break in the middle. To get the cross grain look, just glue it to the outside of the bentwood core.

3. Glue on the veneer just like you wrapped the ring. Again make sure you dry-fit it so you get it straight. You can see I didn't get it exactly straight, but that's ok Because I'm going to add more wood in-between anyway.

This is the hardest and most time consuming part, but also the most rewarding. This is where you stand apart form your friends in the woorworking world. Micro-Inlays are not easy. One ring I have has over 60 pieces of wood on the outer surface.

This is the hardest part for me, and doing this, there's really no way to not get your fingers super-glued. With practice, I don't glue my fingers to the ring anymore, but I do get glue all over a few of my fingers, and that's ok, because it comes off in a day or two. It's worth it to me. I've tried using gloves, but the detail you're working with, and how tight you'll want to hold it, the gloves just glue to the piece and rip off anyway.

2. I highly reccommend getting some type of soft cylinder and wrapping sandpaper around it for the inner part of the ring. This is the hardest part to sand. I just wrapped a piece of sandpaper around a plastic tube of glitter, and that works. it has to be almost the inner-size of the ring for a smooth sanding job. Too small, like the pencil, and you'll get an un-even gouged out inner circle.

3. DON'T SAND THE NEW EDGE! ok, so you can sand it, but only with 800 and 2000 grit, because it's thin, and you don't have much to play with before it disappears. I made this mistake on one ring, and had a razor thin edge that looked really dumb. So, the edge flat on 800 and 2000 just a bit to shine it up and maybe round it out a little, but don't go overboard, unless you have a very thick veneer for the edge.

Hey Robert, Great plan! it worked great for me. For the ring I made with the stone in it, it is a cubic zirconia gem (about $20) but they look just like diamonds. and with wood, you don't want to risk it falling out, because there's no guarantee. SO, the inside of the ring on this tutorial is what I did. A solid wrap of cherry. You want to use a pretty dense hardwood if it's going to be skinny like that. Anyway, I made the band wide, and then I set the stone and then shaped the rest of the ring around it. I set the stone by first drilling a tine hole all the way through the ring, then a slightly larger one then a slightly larger one, until I got the shape I wanted. I used round diamond dremel bits for this part. But basically the shape I drilled into the ring was like a countersink hole for a screw, just the right size for the diamond. For setting it, I put clear epoxy into the hole (only a bit) so it doesn't squeeze out too much, and then I put a bit of super glue over the edge of the gem just a bit so it couldn't get knocked out. Disclaimer, the gem only stayed in for a year. I had to glue it back in. Really gluing anything in won't be REALLY permenant, but as long as it's over the edges, it will last a while.

Also, if you want a better drilled hole, you can buy them in the same size as the diamonds specifically for this purpose online, but it didn't really matter since the epoxy formed the inside shape and held to the wood jsut fine. 006ab0faaa