Switch is an open-source power system planning model that is uniquely suited for designing and studying future power systems that may have large shares of renewable energy, storage and/or demand response. It optimizes investment decisions for renewable and conventional generation, battery or hydrogen storage, hydro and other assets, based on how they would be used during a collection of sample days in many future years. This allows it to identify the least-cost system design to meet policy goals such as carbon or renewable energy targets while maintaining a reliable supply of power. It is an ideal choice for "what if" analyses of the cost of decarbonization or the appropriate role of new technologies.
Switch uses a state-of-the mathematical formulation that considers multiple investment periods and chronologically sequences of hours, enabling optimization and assessment of a long-term renewable transition based on a direct consideration of how these resources would be used hour-by-hour.
Power Switch 3d Model Free Download
Download File 🔥 https://shoxet.com/2yGbxg 🔥
Please send a message to the Switch Model Google group (switch-model@googlegroups.com or !forum/switch-model) or contact Matthias Fripp at mfripp@edf.org if you have questions or need help installing and running Switch.
2. The Power Switch on mine also is finicky, if I don't turn it on properly the power LED will flash like it's trying to turn on, but immediately unsuccessful, some times I'll get it first try and others it will take several attempts before the console powers on properly.
3. The Reset button can also have a small error where it'll shut off any game running, but not reboot it, leaving it on a black screen. This is easily resolved by pressing it again obviously, but I don't think it's supposed to happen. (I theorize this could be connected to the power switch issue too but I don't have any real evidence to back that up)
I've uploaded some pictures of the circuit board. I had already cleaned it inside beforehand but I tried it again anyways though no dirt really came off of it. I checked all the capacitors to see if they were bulging but as far as I can tell they aren't. The only problem I can see is that the switch has a rusty spot near the base. I don't think the problem is actually getting worse like I thought it was, as the power switch seems to work fine sometimes, but other times it acts up like how I described.
I had the same issue, the actual black plastic switch on the top lid was to blame - it has 2 small "posts" in the hole that goes over the motherboard's switch that help keep it in place, and they had worn from years of use. I would up putting a "cap" of shrink tube on the white power switch, so when I put the lid back on, it would jam into the plastic power switch and keep everything snug with no wiggle, which works now 100% of the time.
Factory OEM switch for the D4C SE (Special Edition) and D4C model Rainbow. This switch first came as pictured (diagram) in the early version D4C that came out in 1986. Rexair then changed to a new design switch that did not have wires attached. The new version had six holes that you would stick the wires into. Inside each hole was a spring-loaded catch that held the wires in place.
A lot of UPS companies like to measure in watts. Your image indicates the max wattage; so go with that. Your actual usage will probably sit somewhere (closer probably to the low end) of the max wattage and the typical idle / normal traffic load. (both of which exclude PoE draw.)
The total power draw of the switch under highest-draw conditions will be the 1660.07 W listed. The 1440 W spec is the max PoE the unit is able to temporarily provide (1025 W continuous), and the 73.4 W is what the switch itself will use normally. That 1660.7 W spec is the maximum power that the unit will (or should) ever draw. Keep in mind that the PoE power the switch passes through to devices is part of the draw from the UPS you put the switch on. This is why there are the different power specs listed.
We have an excellent White Paper that illustrates the differences between the different types of UPS units that I will link here: The Different Types of UPS Systems . Aside from choosing a network grade line interactive or online UPS, you may also want to consider an Automatic Transfer Switch as well if you wish to have redundancy in your setup. I will link our NetShelter Rack Transfer Switches for you to look at.
Hello,
This is my first post on the forums.
What I have here is an old APC Master Switch Power Controller that has 8 NEMA 5-15 outlets, a 10Base-T Ethernet port, and a 9-pin male serial interface. It looks exactly like this one -ap9210-masterswitch.pdf same specs and everything. I am not sure what the model number is because it isn't printed or labeled on the unit anywhere, but I'm assuming it's a 9210 or something close.
My problem is I have no idea what the IP address of the unit is, and I don't have the serial cable for it, so I really have no means of communicating with the device. I work in a SOHO environment so I do not have much access to networking equipment to configure this thing - basically all I have is a laptop and a few straight-thru Ethernet cables. So what are my options for connecting to and configuring this thing? Would my best bet be to buy a generic 9-pin serial cable and configure the unit via terminal emulator?
Thanks,
-Austin
I believe the model number is on the serial number label, which is a small rectangular white label with barcodes. If you have the rackmount ears attached, I think the label is under one of them. I might be thinking of the MAC address label, though, in which case the model / serial label would be on the bottom of the unit.
An AP9210 has the network cable connector directly on the beige chassis. An AP9211 (slightly newer) has the network cable plugged into an AP9606 management card (black faceplate) which is then mounted in the chassis. The newer models have the console and network ports on the outlet side of the unit.
[This thread|Referenced content removed] has some info on the default passwords, as well as an important security warning which you should read.
The preferred way to recover from a lost password on these was to contact APC support with the model and serial number, and they'd give you a special password valid only for that particular unit. I don't know if that service is still offered, since those units were obsoleted many years ago. The security warning I mentioned above is about a password that works on ALL units.
Update:
Per your advice I was able to find the model number (AP9210), serial number, and MAC address of the unit by removing the rackmount ears on the sides - thanks!
Regarding connecting to the unit I ended up acquiring a generic DB9 null modem serial cable, connected one end to the serial port of my PC and the other to the console port on the powerswitch, set my hyper terminal settings (2400, 8 bits, no parity, 1 stop bit, and no flow control), but was not able to establish a session with the unit. After hitting enter several times and waiting several minutes I was left with just a blinking cursor. Any ideas as to what's going on here? Does this unit use a proprietary null modem cable by chance?
Thanks
-Austin
I forget if those old units run at 2400 or some other speed (9600 or 19200 are the likely alternatives). I also don't remember if these use the same 940-0024 proprietary cable as other APC units. Probably, as the AP9211 is the same box but with a removable SmartSlot management card. APC won't tell you the pinout and may say something about warranties, but your unit is long obsolete, so a web search for "apc 940-0024 pinout" would be useful.
Please be aware of the giant security hole I mentioned in my prior post - anyone who has access to the unit via either the serial or network ports can take complete control of it, lock you out, and turn off the outlets.
Wow that was a fast reply!
I was looking at the wrong user guide and thus was entering the wrong bit rate settings in hyper terminal. After entering the correct bit rate (192000) I was able to establish a console connection with the unit. However, the password and default username have been changed, so I cannot gain access into the system settings. Any backdoors that I could use to gain access?
Much appreciated!
-Austin
As I'm a guest here on APC's forum, I'd like to remain on good terms with them. I strongly suggest you read the thread that I linked to in my first reply to you here, particularly my post in that other thread.
Thanks Terry!
I have read and fully understand that this unit has a major security flaw. If this device were to be introduced onto our network it would be deployed behind a firewall, and would only be made accessible to specific users on the LAN. 152ee80cbc
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