Jenny & Ahmed's Cycling Adventure

Paths 2 The Soul - Episode 021

 From Ljubljana to Postojna (29 to 31 May 2025)

Countries Visited :

Effort, encounters and wonders...

After a good physical effort, the break at the campsite recharged our batteries before a spectacular day dedicated to the treasures of the Slovenian karst: the grandiose Postojna caves and the legendary Predjama Castle. Between exertion, awe, cookies and tawny owls, this stage was intense, varied... and unforgettable.

Between Ljubljana and Postojna: Sweet treats on the road, sore legs on the climb...

Ljubljana → Postojna – 70.2 km 🚴

We wake up a bit groggy: Jenny’s night was once again disturbed by her pollen allergy, and this big impersonal campsite doesn't help with feeling good. We quickly pack our things, especially since Ahmed finds his tyre completely flat. He inflates it, changes the valve, but it keeps deflating, a little more slowly. After a quick breakfast, we head to a bike shop two kilometres away, hoping to fix things. The road is fairly simple, crossing a residential suburb, and leads to a well-equipped store. The mechanic is friendly, lets us stay next to him, and explains everything he’s doing. Ahmed opts for a thicker inner tube and adds foam inside the tyre, while we both replace our rear brake pads. We also buy a few spare parts, which puts a dent in our budget, but it was essential. For now, we prefer learning from professionals. With the bikes finally sorted, Ahmed regains his smile and we start this big day. We briefly return past the campsite, then head into Ljubljana, which we will cross this time. A wide avenue with a bike lane takes us there pleasantly. A shop window catches our eye, promising sweet delights. We stop for a coffee and discover a wonderful place, “La Mousse Goose” (Instagram: @lamoussegoose), which could easily exist in South Korea. The concept is detailed down to the toilets, with deodorant and lotion available. Two signature desserts stand out: cookies and choux buns filled generously. It’s beautiful, indulgent, maybe a bit girly, but we love it. We (Jenny that is) treat ourselves to two cookies to go. If you’re ever in Ljubljana, this detour is well worth it. The founder, a passionate young mother, gives real soul to the place. Back on the road with our precious pastry box. Crossing the city takes us past Saints Cyril and Methodius Church, the Museum of Modern Art, the Museum of Natural History, several embassies and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. It’s rich, even though we only stop at the church, where Ahmed surprises the caretaker with his spiritual approach. The man even comes out to greet me and tells him something that touches us deeply: “God created me, He created you, just like He created the tree outside.” For him, seeing a Muslim come to reflect in an Orthodox church carries deep meaning. This is the only Serbian Orthodox church in the capital. Built between 1932 and 1936, it features five golden domes and a splendid iconostasis. Its monumental frescoes, painted between 1986 and 1997, make it a true spiritual and artistic jewel. We leave this part of Ljubljana and pick up the pace, riding on long straight roads, overtaking cars and trucks stuck in traffic. We exit the urban area, cross a few small towns, and Jenny starts to suffer again from the pollen. Around 1 pm, just as we’re about to buy ingredients for sandwiches, we meet a French family cycling: Bastien, Alice and their two children, Aël and Alma. We chat, the kids are adorable, and Jenny takes the opportunity to draw with them. We barely have time to get to know each other when another French bike touring couple also stops: Mathilde and Sébastien. Bastien later calls this moment a “roadside meetup” on WhatsApp. We laugh, chat, greet all the cyclists passing by, but the sun is strong and time is running. While they sit in the shade for lunch, we sadly have to leave. We exchange contacts to stay in touch. A quick stop at the supermarket and we begin the remaining 40 kilometres. The first big climbs begin. Jenny cycles while sneezing, then we have to push. The road is busy, so we push the bikes on the right side to stay safe, even if it’s physically harder. Around a wall, we find two energy bars left for us, likely by a fellow cyclist. This small, unexpected gesture deeply touches us. After a small flat stretch, we stop briefly in a town to eat our sandwiches on a bench, with a special combo: rocket, cream cheese, onion, bell pepper, olive oil, salt and pepper. A few chips on the side, and Ahmed refills the bottles at a döner shop. We don’t linger. Back on the road. The next slope is gentler, and Jenny climbs it all without stopping. Ahmed while getting back on his bike looses balance and falls, luckily without injury. A light shower passes, quickly over. We continue on a lovely country road, then a second big climb begins. Jenny cycles almost the entire way except for one 12 percent section that's too steep. We put on our rain jackets for a thunderstorm that doesn’t last. With 2 km left, we realise we forgot to set the campsite as our destination on Komoot. Result: we end up climbing toward the castle. We turn back, descend that part, and find the right road. Four kilometres remain, including a forest road with climbs and descents to the campsite. We arrive exhausted but happy: over 70 km and 830 m of elevation gain, not bad at all for us and our heavy loaded bicycles. The campsite, tucked deep in the forest, is charming. We set up at dusk after sweeping away sharp stones from the ground. Our Austrian neighbours, seasoned adventurers, show us their impressive vehicle covered in flags. We chat briefly before pitching the tent and preparing dinner. On the menu: veggie instant noodles (too spicy for Jenny) and shared sandwiches. For dessert, our triple chocolate and red fruit cookies are a real reward. Ahmed checks some flyers at reception, then after a good shower, we fall asleep to the sound of tawny owls calling in the forest. A perfect ending to an intense day.

Camping Pivka Jama: A nature break and a sports tournament...

After yesterday’s gloomy day, we treat ourselves to a real break at the campsite. Ahmed, true to form, wakes up very early for his shower. Jenny stays in bed until 8 am. When she wakes up, Ahmed surprises her: he invites her to the campsite’s breakfast buffet. A wonderful surprise, especially after yesterday’s budget talk. Jenny is out of the tent in two minutes. The welcome is warm, the waiter even asks how we’d like our eggs. Normally, the buffet could feel average, but today it’s a feast: muesli, bananas, bread, jam, Nutella, BUTTER, red tea, coffee, tomatoes, eggs, salad… all you can eat. Jenny savours every bite, drinks 4 cups of tea and 3 cups of café au lait before surrendering. This breakfast also doubles as lunch. Thank you Ahmed for this little moment of joy. After a short break, we settle down to work near the restaurant, in the shade but with a sunlit chair for Jenny. Summer mode: sunscreen, sunglasses… we’re comfy. We discuss budget, then work on the Croatian itinerary, the next day’s visits, the blog, and the journal. The sun stays with us all day, it’s a real energy boost. Until 3 pm, we stay focused. Then it’s time for free sports activities: table tennis and especially basketball. We have a blast like kids, with a little reminder that cycling alone doesn’t keep you fit. Of course, we filmed everything. At the end of the day, we stay close to the tent. Jenny discovers that ants have moved into her Ortlieb handlebar bag. A big cleanup is necessary. Then it’s each their own kind of relaxing: yoga for one, reading for the other. We end with slightly bland pesto spaghetti and a tomato salad. We also take time to wish GWENDOU a happy birthday 🎂. Then it’s shower and sleep. The campsite filled up a lot in the evening. Tomorrow, we’ll go on a bike ride without panniers, and we’re really looking forward to it.

Postojna and Predjama: underground grandeur and a cliffside legend...
Hidden treasures of Slovenia. A dragon underground, a knight in the rock... A karst tale in two chapters...

Today’s program is exceptional: the Postojna Caves in the morning and the legendary castle of Predjama in the afternoon. We wake up at 7 am, eat a banana-muesli breakfast, then leave our panniers at the campsite to travel light. The region is far from flat, but riding without bags makes everything easier. We arrive at Postojna at 9:10 am and discover a huge tourist complex, fortunately still quiet at this hour. We secure the bikes and grab a cappuccino. Visits start every 20 minutes in large groups, up to 300 people, but it’s very well organized and perfectly timed. While waiting in line, Ahmed spots the French director Patrice Leconte. The caves, discovered in 1818 by Luka Čeč, are a 24 km karst jewel. The tourist route is 5.3 km long, including 3.7 km by electric train and 1.5 km on foot through spectacular chambers. The temperature stays between 8 and 10 °C year-round. The audio guide makes the tour rich and detailed: we learn about limestone formations, massive galleries, and of course the famous olm, nicknamed “baby dragon,” a blind creature that lives in underground waters. Some halls even host concerts during Christmas. We’re deeply impressed and film a lot. After the visit, an unpleasant surprise: Ahmed discovers a tick on his arm. We have nothing to remove it. Jenny looks for help: a motivated cook first brings a pickle tong (!), then asks all the waitresses. In the end, we rush to a pharmacy and buy a proper tick remover. The operation takes place in the parking lot and goes well. We get back on the road to Predjama, stopping for lunch along the way. Burger, fries, lemonade, ketchup-mayo: a rare indulgence we fully enjoy in the shade. Riding with full bellies is harder, but luckily the climb to the castle is pannier-free. Arriving in the village, we lock the bikes. Our combo ticket for the caves and the castle is ready, and the audio guide is already on our phone. Perched 123 m high on a cliff, Predjama Castle is stunning from the first glance. A mix of stone and walls, it gives off a unique medieval aura. The Lokva stream disappears under its foundations. Built in the 12th century, the castle was modified over time. It’s most famous for the knight Erasmus, who resisted an imperial siege in the 15th century thanks to a network of caves. He allegedly taunted his enemies with fresh cherries. Betrayed, he was killed on the toilet by a catapult strike, a sad end for a hero. The visit is fascinating as the guide narrates each room one by one. In short, we learn that the castle was primarily a defensive structure with very basic comfort. We explore every part of the building: narrow staircases, rock-carved walls, cisterns, chimneys, bedrooms, kitchen, toilet corner, chapel. The torture chamber is dark and freezing, enough to send chills down your spine. Discovery Channel filmed unexplained phenomena there. A terrace offers a splendid view of the valley. We pass from the built section to the part carved into the rock without even noticing. We climb up to the hidden gallery, the passage Erasmus used to supply the castle. This network is still accessible today with proper caving gear. We descend through the soldiers’ quarters, the armoury, the alarm bell turned wishing bell, the stables, and finish in front of the stream, facing the castle. In the village chapel, Erasmus rests beneath a linden tree planted by his fiancée. On the way back to camp, Komoot takes us across an unmown meadow and then a forest trail. We reach the campsite just in time to cook an onion-tomato risotto, our last meal with leftovers. Tomorrow, back to the breakfast-lunch buffet 😊.

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Stay tuned for more in our next episode…

Jenny & Ahmed