Jenny & Ahmed's Cycling Adventure

Paths 2 The Soul - Episode 010

From Trento to Noale (21 to 25 April 2025)

Countries Visited :

Hospitality in a chain, from Trento to Noale

From Moreno and Giada’s Bici-Grill, through Marco’s hangar, and ending in Adriano’s enchanted caravan, hospitality guides us from Trento to Noale, five days of human warmth while waiting for Venice.

Climb, lake, and unexpected bivouac at Moreno’s...

Trento → Novaledo - 34.2 km 🚴

This morning in Trento, we have breakfast with Dario, who will leave at 11 a.m. Jenny wakes up a little later than usual, and we share toast and dried fruit. Dario generously gives us peanuts and supplies for the road. Jack, his daughter’s dog whom we met the day before during a sort of “canine therapy” (for Jenny), has already left for the week. Dario is preparing for a nearly 100 km trail race. His library, full of books about mountains and even French comic books, reveals a true mountaineer. Around 10 a.m., we set off. We pass through the historic centre of Trento, much more pleasant than the day before. We discover the fountain, pedestrian streets, a lovely museum, and exchange a few words with a man who knows Belgium. Then, we head toward the big climb of the day. The winding road climbs steeply, punctuated with mosaics depicting the Passion scenes. The effort is tough, but we eventually reach a plateau. After the descent, under a cloudy sky, we stop at a Lidl open until 1 p.m. for budget-conscious shopping. We find a perfect picnic spot among apple trees, with benches and peace. Instant soup, chips, toast… it all hits the spot. Ahmed lies down, Jenny writes the journal. Two young Spanish cyclists offer us their leftover profiteroles. An unexpected gift! We devour them like dessert fallen from the sky. Next, we follow Lake Caldonazzo on a beautiful path. The water is deep blue, the scenery lush, but the Easter Monday crowds make us want to move on. In a village, we take a coffee break (at € 2 a cappuccino, the pleasure is becoming routine). Still no place to stay tonight, and campsites are expensive. We decide to try our luck at BiciGrill Bar Novaledo (Instagram: @bicigrill_novaledo) along the cycle path. Jenny shows our note in Italian to the manager, Moreno. He’s surprised… then immediately welcoming: “Of course, set up here or there… no problem!” He points out several spots. Word spreads among the customers: tonight, two bike travellers are camping at the bici-grill! We order a cold drink, then settle at a table to write and sort photos. The clientele is eclectic: students, families, regulars, bikers, cyclists. At 7 p.m., Ahmed sets up the tent on a small grassy patch between the play area and the tables. Shortly after, Giada, Moreno’s daughter, comes to see us: a journalist would like to interview us for a local newspaper. With pleasure! An hour later, Emanuele and Gloria arrive. They’re lovely: Emanuele is a journalist at a local newspaper "il T Quotidiano" (Instagram: @il_t_quotidiano), Gloria his fiancée will be the translator for the day. We talk for a good hour, indoors because it’s cold. They offer us a drink, and we accept on the condition we toast together: Crodino and Lemon Sprite. We talk about everything: travel, dreams, law, the future. Two hopeful students, apparently touched by our project. We end the evening with a souvenir photo with Moreno. He plans a way for us to leave before opening in the morning, and shows us the two outdoor water points. The temperature has dropped, so we retreat into the tent. And Jenny… falls asleep with a little knock on the head from her tablet. End of a beautiful unexpected day...

Between cliffs, olive trees, and an improbable hangar!

Novaledo → Bassano del Grappa - 66.4 km 🚴

Wake-up in the cold, tent and panniers covered in frost. At 6:30 a.m., we settle on the Bici Grill’s terrace, still closed, bundled up, quick breakfast while waiting for the sun to rise above the cliff. Around 9:30, Moreno and his daughter Giada arrive, we help them unload the car trunk and they offer us a coffee: Photos, hugs, approximate translation, and off we go again. We follow the cycle path to Borgo Valsugana, a charming little town with classic Italian architecture. Ahmed goes in search of gas and returns with two canisters and a handmade brioche. Jenny, on her side, meets Ernest and Karl, two curious walkers. The valley opens onto the magnificent Valsugana: cliffs in grey-pink hues, flowery meadows, and a clear turquoise river. The place is heavenly, and our picnic spot proves it: two olive trees, a small beach, flat stones… Ricotta-artichoke ravioli with red pesto, broth from the cooking water, everything is simple and perfect. But a storm is approaching. We get back on the road, following the river between cliffs and villages. A sign warns of a closed zone, but Robert, whom we met at Stefano’s in Bolzano, told us we could still get through to avoid a major detour. Despite warnings from cyclists, we give it a try. We slip the bikes under the barrier, then at the construction site, two workers refuse to let us pass. Just before we leave… the site manager comes out, waves us forward and asks for a photo! An incredible moment. Energized, we decide to push on to Bassano. On the way, we stop in front of Villa Angarano, designed by Palladio and listed as a UNESCO site. We photograph everything, Jenny lingers by the gate while an old cat sleeps in a flower pot. Entering Bassano del Grappa, we admire the famous Ponte Vecchio, also called Ponte degli Alpini. This wooden bridge, rebuilt based on Palladio’s plans, dates back to the 16th century. The arrival into town is more chaotic, heavy traffic, industrial feel. We wait for Marco on the terrace of a café, just steps from his warehouse. When he arrives by bike, he brings us into a huge 1200 m² hangar filled with tools, machines, and bikes. An unusual but fascinating space, and it has facilities. Perfect for the night. Marco lives on-site, but upstairs in a well-fitted little loft. We go up to join him for a delicious dinner: white asparagus risotto. Marco is passionate about permaculture, ecology, change… and he shares wise advice: lighten the bikes, change the chainring, limit unnecessary tools. We head back down, inspect our brakes with him (they’ll last until Venice), and fall asleep peacefully… an unforgettable day.

Divine croissants, chaotic route, and enchanted caravan...

Bassano del Grappa → Noale - 44.5 km 🚴

Easy wake-up in the big hangar, no humidity, everything packs up quickly. Marco leaves for work at 7:45, we’re ready at the same time, though we haven’t had breakfast yet. Leaving Bassano is tense: rush hour, heavy traffic, little space for bikes. And all day, the cycling route is a pain: bumpy sections, gates to navigate around, narrow roads with trucks… We’re not making progress. But Rosa changes everything: we stop in a lovely square, and there, Ahmed finds a miraculous bakery (Instagram: @gololab_rosa). Apricot and custard croissants… a revelation. Three each, and we already regret not getting more. While we’re enjoying them, several elderly people come over to talk to us. One lady gives Jenny a holy card and bursts into tears, moved by our journey. We continue on to Castelfranco Veneto, a superb 12th-century fortified town, surrounded by red brick walls. We take a little tour before getting back on the road. The ride remains chaotic but at times bucolic, with another palace seen along the way. Then we stop for lunch between railway tracks and fields, seated on our folding chairs. Jenny even dozes off a bit without a backrest, not easy. Further on, we enjoy a delicious three-scoop ice cream in front of a church, then a Coke at a petrol station. At the end of the day, we arrive at Adriano’s in Noale: a little paradise. Huge grounds, wooden house, chickens, goats, and a magical caravan with a covered terrace. Adriano welcomes us instantly, explains everything. We head to the supermarket. In the evening: pesto pasta, little cakes, and a well-earned night in our enchanted caravan.

Quiet day at the caravan, Egyptian foul, and published article!

Peaceful wake-up in the caravan. Adriano and his son Joshua have already left for work at 7:30, we take our time. It’s still cool but the sun comes quickly, and for once, we can sit down comfortably for a real breakfast outside: strawberry yoghurt and cereal. Goal of the day: catch up on the photo sorting backlog. We each settle in our own corner of the yard, Jenny in the sun, Ahmed in the shade, and off we go. The house cats drop by to say hello, we keep an eye on them. The setting is perfect for work: calm, nature, … Around 2 p.m., just as we head out for groceries, surprise: our article is published! We read it with emotion thanks to the translator, and Stefano even sends us a video of the printed paper. So kind. Off to do the shopping to prepare an Egyptian meal. The walk is even bleaker than the day before: lots of roadkill… Budget blown as usual when we want to treat our hosts, but it’ll last for several days. Back to the caravan, homemade salad, then we resume our activities until Adriano and Joshua return around 5:30 p.m. We offer them our evening meal: fouls, tahini sauce and tomato salad, and for dessert, strawberries with “Stefano” sauce. Ahmed prepares the meal in their kitchen, Jenny sets up the salad. The storm is threatening, but Adriano and Joshua are still tinkering outside. Joshua, a budding traveller, went to Nordkapp in a Fiat Panda at 19! At 6:30 p.m., we sit down together. Hot tea, a simple and calm vibe. Everyone enjoys the food. We chat, even if the language limits us a bit. Adriano is quiet, but radiates a peaceful energy, like his home, which he actually built in 7 months with help from three other people. We wrap up the evening early, around 9:30 p.m., once again touched by the welcome of these discreet, yet incredibly generous hosts ❤️

Rainy day in Noale, extended hospitality, and curious coypus...

Wake-up under the rain drumming on the caravan roof. It’s 7:30 a.m., we linger a bit: no set plan and no accommodation for tonight. The idea was to leave in the afternoon, but we’re not really feeling it. While doing some work outside, Adriano chats with Ahmed, sees the weather, and offers us one more night. A simple gesture, but it changes everything. We accept with relief: staying dry and catching up on content is a luxury. Joshua comes out a bit later, and both of them invite us to share their lunch. Another lovely gesture. The meal is delicious: walnut pasta with parmesan and olive oil as a primo, then green olive and pea omelettes as a secondo. Both are vegetarians, Adriano for 30 years, Joshua since always, and they serve everything with hot red tea. Adriano makes us a proper Italian coffee. In the afternoon, the rain eases up and we walk into the centre of Noale. We visit the ruins of the 12th-century castle, not many shops are open but we stumble upon a small park… inhabited by coypus! We observe and film them: they pick grass and chew it, looking very much at home. Sweet break: three-scoop ice cream, sorbet for Ahmed, cream for Jenny. Nearly 9 km walked in total. Back at the house, Adriano and Joshua are up on the roof, still tinkering. We resume sorting our photos. Dinner is leftovers: various salads, though the smoked scamorza piadinas are a bit disappointing… Dishes, tidying up, then a call from Safia in Belgium, a real heart-warmer. Last night in the caravan, dry and quiet, with the excitement of Venice lingering in the back of our minds. Early departure ahead 🎭

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Jenny & Ahmed