Jenny & Ahmed's Cycling Adventure

Paths 2 The Soul - Episode 008

Special Edition: The Dolomites (12 to 16 April 2025)

Countries Visited :

5 days in the Dolomites...

Five days, five nights, and the same majestic backdrop: that of the Dolomites. No bikes this time, but a small car and the two of us of course, in search of fresh air, dizzying landscapes, and human warmth. From the mythical Tre Cime to frozen lakes, from snowy hikes to the clay pyramids of Renon, via freezing nights in a trunk too narrow and unexpected encounters, this alpine interlude left us exhausted, amazed, shaken. An off-format episode, for an extraordinary adventure.

The Dolomites - Day 01

First steps in the Dolomites...

Hike 01: Tre Cime - 16.0 km🚶

We finally decided to rent a car for these few days, a much more flexible solution that allows us to avoid overpriced hotels, to get around easily despite the cable cars being closed, and most importantly, to sleep sheltered from rain and snow. Early wake-up at Jonas and Hanna’s, we get ready quietly while they recover from their busy week, we leave our bags neatly packed (let’s not forget Ahmed is a Tetris champion) for the next five days, then we head to the airport. A small unplanned detour due to a missed bus stop, and we finally pick up the car, a manual instead of the automatic we requested. After a few technical issues at the counter, we hit the road toward the Dolomites and Tre Cime! On the way, we stop for supplies in a village where the prices are higher than we hoped. After 2.5 hours of driving, we park at the second-to-last accessible lot before the start of the hikes. The weather is beautiful, we quickly eat a sandwich, prep our mini backpacks, and off we go. The landscape is breathtaking, with open trails, snowy patches, and above all, insane views of the peaks. At the refuge, we try a detour to the famous Cadini di Misurina viewpoint, but the snow nearly swallows us whole with every step. Ahmed is ready to continue, but Jenny prefers to follow the classic Tre Cime trail, just as beautiful and more manageable. The views are dizzying, the light is incredible, and we have a lovely encounter with a group of Irish women near a chapel. The descent is easier, almost playful, as we practice a kind of “sliding step.” Lake San Antorno, our first planned spot for the night, is already quite busy. There are even people getting ready to sleep in the snow, so we keep going. Along the way, we meet a solo hiker, and we offer him a ride, he’s from Manchester, fully geared up with Big Agnes equipment, and happy we stopped to drop him off at his hotel. After another detour and some route doubts, we finally reach Lago di Braies at nightfall. We settle in at parking lot P3, cook a makeshift dinner next to the car, Chef Jenny’s menu: hard-boiled eggs and pesto pasta, and even share a quick game of hide and seek with a curious fox. Everything seems perfect, but the night will be rough, the car is too short to lie down in, we have to twist ourselves into odd shapes, and the trunk edge literally breaks our backs... First night in the Dolomites, unforgettable in its own way...

Want to see our friend the Fox 🦊 ? Click the video here below 👇

The Dolomites - Day 02

Between frozen lakes, frogs, and nighttime struggles...

Hike 02: The Lakes - 10.6 km🚶

The night in the car was as short as it was uncomfortable, with condensation everywhere and a damp chill in the morning. We change as best we can in the misty cabin, then drive a bit to warm up before stumbling upon a small miracle, clean and open toilets at parking lot P2. Improvised breakfast in a cup and a yogurt pot, with our homemade cereal and a few banana slices. Then we head out to walk around Lago di Braies, known for its turquoise waters, but at this time of year, the lake is still frozen and wrapped in a light mist. The trail is beautiful, but one section is closed and we turn back. We then meet two very friendly French sisters (Nana & Perle) and chat with them for a while. By the time we return, the tourists have taken over the shore near the entrance, and the morning magic has somewhat faded. A less pleasant surprise, an unfriendly man demands €10 for the parking, even though no signs were visible when we arrived. A bit annoyed, we hit the road again and find refuge in a charming village café where everything looks tempting, cappuccino, ice cream, Black Forest cake, cannoli... We give in and share a cannolo, and ask if we can stay a while to work on our blogs, since we’re seriously behind. The atmosphere is nice, despite one waiter making a crazy amount of noise as he puts away the dishes. Later, we run into the café manager again at the till of another small shop he also runs, and we stock up there, instant soups in cans and packets to compare, some bread and cheese, simple! We continue toward another lake, whose name we’ve forgotten, but we reach it by cutting through the forest to avoid the paid parking lots. The lake is full of life, with ducks, swans, and frogs. We meet a group of Koreans and exchange a few words and photos. We picnic by the lake and prepare our soup, which turns out to be very good. We finish the walk at a biotope where frogs in full mating season put on a concert and some fascinating scenes. The night before, we had already been visited by a deer and a group of does. We get back in the car and drive toward Santa Maddalena, where we hope to hike the next day. But again, expensive parking and few places to stop. Eventually, we climb a small road and park on the side near a forest. Jenny cooks with her headlamp, still pesto pasta 😁. We wait for nightfall before settling into the now infamous trunk, trying new sleeping positions. But no matter the orientation, comfort remains a very relative concept. The night is long and back-breaking.

The Dolomites - Day 03

Between hidden peaks and accumulated fatigue...

Hike 03: Jenny’s Improvisation 🥷 - 17.3 km🚶

Another sleepless night, maybe even the worst one yet. The complete lack of comfort in the car is becoming a challenge in itself, dip in the centre, space too short, bent legs, twisted backs... We wake up (a big word in this context) exhausted, on the side of a small mountain road, and head straight for the Santa Maddalena church. On the way, four deer cross right in front of us, a magical moment that brings a smile to our faces. We park near the church, and at this early hour, everything is still quiet, we see no one. A small miracle, there are clean toilets with hot and cold water. We freshen up and have breakfast on a bench outside. Jenny takes the opportunity to walk around the church and its flower-filled cemetery, moved by the memory of past lives. We then head onto the panoramic trail, meant to offer a stunning view of the Odle mountains. At first, the sky is clear, the light is beautiful. We’re incredibly lucky to catch a glimpse of the famous range. Very quickly though, the trail becomes confusing, the signs for all the hikes start blending together. We climb through woods, cross a river, then a very steep and long path leads us up into snowy areas, in high altitude on shaded slopes, then the trail becomes completely invisible. We have to turn back. We descend with some difficulty, slipping on wet roots, and finally reach the famous site of the little church of Saint Johann, set in a meadow. The mountains, supposed to be the postcard backdrop, are hidden by thick white clouds. The place is still charming, but the entrance is paid, 4 euros just to approach a chapel in a farmer’s indifferent field. Often described as one of the most beautiful photographic subjects in South Tyrol, it stands with its baroque facade before the imposing panorama of the Odle group and has long since become a regional symbol. The church has an impressive history that dates back to ancient times. It is believed to be linked to an apparition of Saint John of Nepomuk. It has especially become a popular photo spot on social media. Back at the car, Ahmed gives up the wheel for the rest of the trip, and Jenny happily takes over the driving through mountain passes. We head toward Alpe di Siusi, with a detour via the supermarket. The road climbs steeply, the clouds linger. At the top, the atmosphere is ghostly, like an abandoned ski resort. We heat our freeze-dried soup near a heart-shaped photo spot and eat it with bread, cheese, and chips. Jenny goes off to explore the plateau despite the clouds, Ahmed stays in peace. She ends up doing a +/- 12 km hike, once again, ending in the snow. On the way back, bad surprise, 14 € for parking, even though a free parking lot was right next to it... Clearly, the car is no longer for us. Thanks to Park4Night, we find a remote spot in the forest near St. Michael to spend the night. But before that, we spend two hours in a very nice tearoom in Castelrotto, Caffè Stern, cappuccino, latte, apfelstrudel, and a bit of writing for Jenny. We return to the “campsite” at nightfall. Jenny washes in the river, we barely eat. Ahmed tries to sleep sitting up in the front passenger seat... Frozen, he finally crawls into the sleeping bag at 11:30 pm. Comfort is lacking, and each night leaves a few more marks.

The Dolomites - Day 04

Val Gardena in the rain, Carezza in colour...

Hike 04: Val Gardena - 21.2 km🚶

Another night among the worst. The car is tilted, everything slides, we can neither stretch our legs nor support our heads. We wake up broken, already aching everywhere, and the thought of yet another night doesn't help. We freshen up in the river under a grey sky, then head off for a low-altitude walk, hoping to stay under the clouds. First stop at a gas station, coffee, hazelnut-chocolate croissant, and a few postcards for Jenny. We park near a sports centre to start our walk of the day, the old Val Gardena railway line. Built in 1915 by the Austro-Hungarian army during the First World War, this line connected Selva di Val Gardena to Ortisei via Santa Cristina. Hastily constructed by soldiers, Russian and Serbian prisoners, and civilians, it was used to transport troops, weapons, and supplies to the alpine front. After the war, it was converted for civilian transport and played a key role in the economic and tourist development of the valley until its closure in 1960. Since then, it has partly become a bike path and a trail, dotted with explanatory panels. Today, Val Gardena mainly lives from skiing. After World War II, the valley modernised with ski lifts, becoming a renowned resort. In 1970, it hosted the Alpine Skiing World Championships, a landmark event for its reputation. Since then, it has become part of the vast Dolomiti Superski area and hosts international competitions every year, such as the Saslong downhill. At the end of the trail, in Ortisei, we walk through a ghost town where only construction sites seem active. The walk ends somewhat abruptly, as Komoot leads us to an imaginary point of interest. We turn back, passing a nursery and a strange giant wooden head. The rain arrives, light at first, then persistent. On the way back, we end up soaked to the bone. We have to blast the car heater. In the afternoon, we climb to the Passo Sella at 2244 m. Spectacular road, numbered curves, peaks in the clouds. Up there, it feels like the end of a party, everything is also closed. Still, we stop to cook tortellini in the middle of a deserted picnic area. We head back down towards Lago di Carezza. The mountain road remains beautiful even though the peaks are hidden. We reach the lake by a small forest trail and a suspension bridge. It is surprisingly small, but its colours are stunning. And then, there’s this legend, a water nymph used to sing there, until one day a sorcerer from Latemar, who had fallen in love with her, tried to lure her by throwing a rainbow into the lake after failing to seduce her. Furious, he shattered it and threw it into the water, and ever since, the lake’s colours reflect this disappointed love. We walk around the lake behind the wooden fences, and just as we’re about to leave, a few rays of sunlight shine onto the surface, revealing deep emerald and blue hues. We end the day with a call to the girls, then look for a place to sleep in hopes of getting one last shot at the Passo Sella early the next day. We stop at the edge of the small town of Pera, fill our bottles at a fountain decorated with blessings, and find a quiet spot on the edge of the forest. Jenny quickly explores the area, then we work on our content until nightfall. Cold dinner, a quiet visit from a patrol in the night, and one last freezing night awaits us. Jenny props her pillow on the hard ridge of the trunk at hip level. It’s not comfortable, but we make do. Luckily, it’s the last one.

The Dolomites - Day 05

Last day in the mountains and discovery of the pyramids...

Last freezing night in the car, and not the least. Jenny found a makeshift system with her pillow to soften the central dip, while Ahmed once again tried the passenger seat... before giving up at 2 a.m., frozen. In the middle of the night, a patrol passed by several times and shone a beam of light over the forest and meadows, probably poachers! Strange atmosphere. At 6:30 a.m., we’re up, heading to the Sella Pass. This time, a miracle, the clouds are gone. The summit marks a border between two worlds, blue sky on one side, grey on the other, and the rocky massifs finally reveal themselves to us, majestic, swept by the wind. The cold is biting, but we’re happy to have witnessed it. On the way down, we head toward the Renon earth pyramids, a geological curiosity in the heart of a green and sunny area. The road is narrow but splendid. We stop for coffee in a place a bit out of time, sunflower tablecloths, smell of tobacco, dry white wine at 10:30 a.m., and Rudy behind the bar. From the terrace, stunning mountain view. Once in the village of Longomoso, we park at the entrance and start the walk. The trail is well marked, runs alongside a pond full of frogs and fish, and leads to a spectacular viewpoint. A sign clearly explains the formation of these pyramids, they result from an erosion phenomenon. The soil is slowly carried away, and only the columns protected by a large stone on top remain. Without the stone, the column collapses. This rare, slow and fascinating natural phenomenon is made possible by a unique combination of clay soil, water, and time. Along the way, we meet a farmhand leading two cows, one of them prefers zigzagging ahead, a rebellious bray. On the way back, we pass a wave of tourists heading up. Cappuccino break in a quirky little café, visit to the church and the grotto of Mary. But the way back is marked by a sad sight, many crushed frogs! Back to the car, we pack our things to return the vehicle in Bolzano. But before that, we stop at a playground to discreetly cook our tortellini with tomato sauce. Then, car cleanup and gas station stop. The vacuum is out of order, but the owner kindly lends us his. We refuel, return the car. The guy at the agency takes the keys without a word or any check. But an hour later, Jenny receives two emails, one about alleged damage to the handle, and notice of extra charges to come. A big blow. We didn’t damage anything, and this kind of procedure, with no inspection upon return, is frankly suspicious. Jenny returns to the agency alone, but the young guy there is evasive, he can’t do anything, we’ll get an email. It’s the world upside down, because we were the ones who should have asked for a refund for getting a manual when we had requested an automatic. (Today, Monday 5 May, after many email exchanges, we finally received confirmation from Hertz that they will refund the extra charges, thanks to them!) Luckily, we end the day at Jonas and Hanna’s. Ahmed is already there, Jenny joins them. Jonas is cooking, Hanna returns from her Italian class. The evening is soft, full of exchanges about their adventures, their perspective as travelling biologists, and their wonderful book about their journey, rich with photos and inspiring encounters. The dinner is just like them, warm and creative. Ginger and spice pasta, fresh salad, homemade pear tart. And finally... a hot shower and a real bed. A night on an actual mattress. It’s simple, but after everything we’ve been through, it’s luxury.

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Jenny & Ahmed