Jenny & Ahmed's Cycling Adventure

Paths 2 The Soul - Episode 006

From Landeck to San Valentino alla Muta (04 to 08 April 2025)

Countries Visited :

Heading to Italy…

Over the past four days, we've been alternating between working at the campsite, exploring the great outdoors, enduring freezing nights in our tent, and enjoying heartwarming encounters. We've crossed the 1,000-kilometer mark, followed the path of the Via Claudia, and finally entered Italy. Between intense efforts and moments of grace, the adventure continues… always higher, always further.

Short Break in Landeck - Day 01

Between Keyboards and Camping: A Slow-Paced Day...

An early morning wake-up at the Landeck campsite, lulled by birdsong. After breakfast in the crisp morning air, the day unfolds between working on tablets and phones, first in the warmth of the common room, then under a radiant 20°C sun. A short walk to the (closed) castle, homemade sandwiches, and an afternoon coffee, slightly over budget. Ahmed is exhausted from digital work, the day ends with pesto pasta, improvising with the communal hotplates after our gas ran out. Jenny optimizes the cooking water to prepare some hard-boiled eggs. The campsite comes alive with the arrival of new neighbors. Erwin, whom we met the day before, opens a bottle: here, everyone shares what they have. Jenny, mindful of the hospitality received, offers dried fruits in return. Erwin shares his route maps and memories of motorcycle trips in Morocco, Turkey, and soon the Balkans. Tired, Jenny skips the traditional evening pear at 40° and escapes to the riverbank to write, pondering the delicate balance between adventure and digital overload.

Short Break in Landeck - Day 02
When Mountains Whisper Legends...

A chilly wake-up around 7 AM, but snug inside our perfect sleeping bag, as long as nothing sticks out! Jenny starts the day with green tea and a well-deserved shower, Lidl shampoo in hand. Noticing a few newly appeared long white hairs, she hesitates: pluck them... or embrace them? Outside, the campsite comes alive. Jenny chats with two little girls camping and skiing with their grandparents. After having heard about "Zud-Korea," Jenny shows them South Korea on the map, they're speechless! An improvised breakfast and Ahmed's second attempt with oats, raisins, and banana, a half-portion does the trick. Then, each dives into work: Ahmed tackles the blog, Jenny prepares Instagram videos and a surprise for reaching the Alps Pass at 1800 m mark. With tea at hand, they settle into their spots, Jenny in the sun, Ahmed in the common room. While neighbors head off to ski, we continue with keyboards and editing until 12:30 PM, then decide on a hiking break. A quick kebab, then off to the nearby mountains under a slightly milder sun than the day before. Along the way, a serious debrief: how to better organize ourselves to avoid excessive screen time? Nature offers a special show: little angels hidden everywhere and, notably, a magnificent deer crossing our path unhurriedly, just a few meters away. The walk leads us to the Zammer Lochputz gorge, a place steeped in mystery. Legend tells of a reclusive old blacksmith, his heart hardened by solitude after his wife's death. One day, he saw a nymph singing near the great waterfall. Moved by his sorrow, she settled with him, becoming like a daughter. But when a young shepherd fell in love with the girl, the blacksmith, jealous, imposed three impossible tasks: make milk flow on the mill wheel, reveal his own heart to the villagers, and bring the stars down into the stream. Against all odds, the shepherd succeeded. Enraged, the blacksmith caused a bridge to collapse under his feet, and the young man was transformed into a bull. It's said that since then, the gorge houses the silhouettes of the bull and the young girl, frozen in the rock by the force of the water, eternal memories of a tragic love. Returning to the river with its stunning shades of blue, we pass through flower-filled residential neighborhoods. In a square, a concert draws a crowd, but we choose to skip it and climb the opposite mountain: a balcony trail with breathtaking views of snow-capped peaks. Back at the campsite, a makeshift dinner becomes the classic: pesto pasta, hard-boiled eggs, cheese, chips, and leftover veggies. Then, back to work: Ahmed continues on the blog, Jenny tidies up and starts researching our next destination, the Dolomites. In the evening, we share a drink with our camping neighbors, the energetic grandparents full of tips for Italy. No schnapps tonight, nor photos, as Erwin has already left, just lovely memories. The wind picks up, the tent dances: the night promises to be chilly at -1°C. We think of the lone cyclist from "2 Years on a Bike" in his sandstorm... ours is just a taste, but the adventure is truly here!

Through the cold and the torrents, our 1000th km 🥳 

Landeck → Pfunds - 34.5 km 🚴

First wake-up under a fine layer of frost: tent, bags, saddles, everything is white. The night dropped to -1°C. At 7 a.m., we get up in the biting cold, head for a hot shower and quick dressing. Jenny heads to Lidl for a little resupply while Ahmed folds the tent, trying to take advantage of the first rays of sun to dry it. Breakfast in the campsite's common room with our Swedish neighbors, while other cycling neighbors are already finishing their preparations; they too are aiming for Italy. A lady bids us farewell; perhaps we'll meet her again further along. Today is a special day: we will cross the 1000 km mark, our very first 1000 kilometers! Around 10 a.m., we're finally ready. Souvenir photo at the campsite... then barely 500 meters further, first obstacle: a blocked bike path. An unfriendly site manager sends us on a steep and rocky detour. Once that bad moment is over, the real beauties begin: superb villages adorned with frescoes, small churches, turquoise torrents bordered by pebbles, immense fir trees, and dizzying mountains all around. A little air of Canada. Shopping break at Hofer: tuna sandwiches for lunch and something to prepare a pepper risotto for the evening... if we find gas. After the break, the afternoon is magnificent, but a small disagreement over the 1000 km video darkens the mood. Ahmed goes to set up the tent, Jenny handles the video. Arrived in Pfunds, the charm works: beautiful houses, small alleys, impressive mountains, and even a body of water with pontoons. Our spot is perfect: fresh grass, full sun... and we're alone! Taking advantage of the body of water, Jenny takes on a swimming challenge: a few quick jumps into icy water, before the shadow and cold fall suddenly around 5:30 p.m. A welcome hot shower to warm up. Little trip to the campsite store: no gas, but reservation of two croissants for the next day. Simple dinner: cheese and jam tartines, before taking refuge early in the tent, for lack of a heated room. Jenny transfers the photos and posts the one of the 1000 km. We slip into our double sleeping bag, nice and warm despite the -4°C announced for tonight. Going out to the toilet becomes the ultimate ordeal... The decision is made: no more drinking after 4 p.m.! Tomorrow, heading for the Via Claudia, already glimpsed in Landeck.

At the summit of the Reschen Pass: goodbye Austria, ciao Italia!

Pfunds → San Valentino alla Muta - 33 km 🚴

The night in Pfunds was freezing: upon waking, everything was frozen, the tent, bikes, chairs, even the forgotten tea mug. At 7 a.m., we emerged from our warm sleeping bag cocoon to face the cold. A hot shower and several layers of clothing helped us regain some courage. Before packing up, we treated ourselves to a comforting moment: coffee, cappuccino, and our two pre-ordered croissants, enjoyed in the warm common room with a lovely view of the Claudiasee, still asleep under the frost. But we had to move on. Packing up a tent and gear soaked and frozen is far from pleasant, especially when every movement freezes your fingers. By 10 a.m., we were finally ready to hit the road, with the sun just starting to crest the ridges. We first followed a charming forest trail suspended above the river, still guided by the symbols of the Via Claudia Augusta. Soon, the trail gave way to the road and traffic. A gentle climb warmed our legs before a beautiful descent led us to an impressive, dark, and narrow tunnel. Caught off guard, Jenny didn't have time to remove her sunglasses; the cars patiently waited behind, but the noise amplified by the walls made the passage a bit stressful. We then crossed an almost invisible border, briefly entering Switzerland before returning to Austria, with the ruins of old customs posts bearing witness to another era. Ahead stood the Reschen Pass: five kilometers of uninterrupted ascent to cover 770 meters of elevation gain. Fortunately, the sky was blue, and the landscapes were stunning. Step by step, we climbed the slope, taking photo breaks, refueling, receiving silent encouragement from motorists, and battling fatigue. As we neared the summit, a small incident complicated our effort: Ahmed realized he had lost a glove. He walked back down to search for it, in vain, before finally finding it just a few meters from the bike... A blow to morale, but not enough to spoil the satisfaction of finally reaching 1,504 meters in altitude. After a short descent, we arrived in Nauders, a ski resort still active despite the late season. We did some shopping at Spar: a box of mixed vegetables on sale, bread, and ingredients to improvise lunch. Crossing the lower slopes still dusted with snow, we found a perfect picnic spot: a bench amidst meadows covered with colchicums, facing the mountains. As the afternoon progressed, we soon crossed the Italian border. Viva Italia! We savored the moment: it's not just a new border; it's a promise of cappuccinos, pizzas, and a different atmosphere. The road climbed slightly before revealing the striking beauty of Lake Resia. Its blue waters, partially frozen, shimmered under a brilliant sky, bordered by majestic mountains. The trail along the lake wasn't easy: between cool shadows and surprising climbs, it resembled a roller coaster. But no matter: the scenery was enchanting. After winding between the lakes, we finally spotted San Valentino alla Muta, with its red, pointed bell tower and mountains sculpted like works of art. We reached Camping Thöni, set in this postcard landscape. The owner, unimpressed by our journey, charged us the full rate, but at least we could choose our spot: near a large wooden table and facing the snow-capped mountains. While Ahmed set up the tent under the setting sun, Jenny went in search of a gas bottle, without success. Only the bakery was open. The cold settled quickly. Fortunately, this time we found a small common area to dine and work. The meal was simple: vegetable salad, tartines, and some shortbread cookies for dessert to ease the fatigue. After a welcome hot shower, we took refuge in our sleeping bag, happy to find some warmth despite the plummeting temperatures. Tomorrow, a well-deserved rest day.

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Jenny & Ahmed