Jenny & Ahmed's Cycling Adventure

Paths 2 The Soul - Episode 022

 From Postojna to Skofje (01 to 03 June 2025)

Countries Visited :

2,000 km, magical caves and a cool unique campsite...

The Slovenian landscapes keep taking our breath away. We explore the spectacular Škocjan Caves, spend two nights at a lovely and truly unique campsite run by Emiliana and Walter, and share wonderful moments with fellow cyclists. Between climbs, nature, and humanity, Slovenia keeps surprising us.

From Pivka Jama to Vremski Britof: Crossing the 2000 km mark!!

Postojna → Skofje - 31,5 km 🚴

Motivated wake-up at 7 a.m. to make the most of the breakfast buffet. In the end, we decide not to rush and just enjoy it. Around 8, we attack the scrambled eggs and the rest: mission accomplished. Then comes camp cleanup and a farewell to the queens of infiltration: the super ants, who even invaded the clothesline to reach our shoes. At 10:30, everything is ready. We greet Peter at reception and begin the climb out of the campsite, followed by a descent and some lovely little roads. It’s quite hot at noon, right in time for a solid uphill. Ahmed stays on the saddle, Jenny pushes a bit. A coffee break feels well deserved, during which Ahmed gets a white chalk thanks to a silly mnemonic sentence. Sunday traffic is busy (motorbikes, cars) but no trucks. Ahmed spots a lively restaurant and buys three sandwiches. There we meet Franck, a passionate and very friendly hiker, walking the Juliana Trail solo for three days already. A pleasant chat by the roadside. We set off again, and soon after, we reach the symbolic 2000 km mark! During a break on a climb, we take advantage of the moment to have lunch sitting on our little chairs, call Leonard and Sanaa, and meet a Swiss hiker also walking the Juliana Trail. He’s following Franck closely, both carrying backpacks weighing just 16 kg in total. Jenny finds a tick, but this time we’re prepared. Then we film a short video to celebrate the 2000 km milestone, with Ahmed as the director and Jenny surrounded by 250 pine cones playing as extras for a day! We continue on a rocky path. A big slowworm startles us, and the slope forces us to push. After this last climb, breathtaking landscapes unfold before us, with pine trees reminiscent of the south. We reach a pass, then enjoy a beautiful descent to the village. A small surprise climb before we meet a local who shows us where the campsite is. The site is a vast field by a river, with a small sanitary block. Ahmed quickly befriends an adorable Dutch cycling couple, Lia and Peter, with whom the connection is instant. We then talk gear: our setup often impresses people, and Ahmed has put a lot of care into it. We pitch the tent under the last rays of sunshine. The manager comes by for payments, and Jenny negotiates a great discount by explaining our project. Simple dinner: instant soup and spaghetti with olive oil or tomato paste. Across the field, a religious group sings in loops. Dressed in white, they come three times a year and seem to belong to a South American movement. The rest of the campers react with kindness and humour. We end the day in our chairs, under a sky filling with stars. We post the 2000 km video and are already thinking about tomorrow’s cave visit. 😊

Between Slovenian forests and underground wonders...

Our day begins at our lovely campsite run by Emiliana and Walter, an endearing duo who never stop moving. The site is a beautiful wide field bordered by a branch of the river, equipped with a small sanitary block, and all managed masterfully from their house perched at the entrance of the campsite. Emiliana comes by every evening to check on new arrivals, often joined by Walter in his 4x4, on his motorbike, or sometimes even on his tractor, always accompanied by an old dog and a dachshund allergic to pollen. Wake-up at 8, with no real breakfast, just a tea. We set off on foot to the Škocjan Caves, a few kilometres away, passing through two quiet hamlets. In Matavun, we discover a well-organised site with reception, restrooms, picnic tables, and a café. As our stomachs are growling, we give in to two Slovenian desserts (Kremšnita, a cream puff pastry, and Prekmurska Gibanica, an apple-cheese-poppy seed-walnut cake) with coffee. Lia and Peter, our Dutch neighbours from the campsite, arrive by bike and take the same 10 a.m. tour as us. The guided visit starts with a walk down to the entrance of the cave. Divided into four groups, we discover spectacular karst formations, first in the dry, silent, mineral part, then in the dizzying canyon carved by the Reka River. The Martelova dvorana, an immense underground chamber over 100 metres high, impresses with its suspended walkways above the roaring waters. The atmosphere is magical, almost unreal, and our guide enriches the tour with geological and historical stories. We think of the first explorers who ventured there by the light of oil lamps, risking their lives. After the guided visit, time for a free walk along the red trail (the longest one). Photos are finally allowed now! The well-marked path overlooks the gorges and offers splendid views of the canyon and the Reka River. Panels explain the geology, fauna, flora, and local legends. A surprise awaits us at the end of the loop: a viewpoint dedicated to a Belgian princess, Stéphanie of Belgium. This lookout, financed by the Austro-Hungarian court in 1885, adds an unexpected historical touch and brings a little piece of Brussels to the heart of Slovenia. We continue our excursion to Divača to shop at a Tuš supermarket. Cherries along the roadside, the sun beating down, our bags filled to the brim for 20 €, just enough for six meals. We have a quick lunch on a bench in a park: bread with cheese and pepper, and some chips. The grapes disappoint us. We walk back to the campsite, meaning 7 km the other way. After a short rest, we chat with Lia the adventurer about travel and gear. She and Peter, former campsite managers, are another wonderful encounter. In the evening, a simple dinner: tomato salad and pasta with tomato sauce. We sit at the large wooden tables to eat, then return to our little spot by the tent. Jenny enjoys a few Kokos Linzer biscuits, a lovely discovery, while Ahmed heads to the shower. Jenny stays outside to write her journal in the calm of the night. No stars tonight, no owls either, but a day full of beauty and humanity.

A day at the campsite with Walter...

This morning, a show of strength from Walter, our protector: a stranger tries to enter the campsite, and Walter goes to meet him, explaining that if he isn’t a guest, he can’t just stay and wander around as he pleases! The man pretends to leave but crosses through the neighbouring park and keeps walking inside the campsite… Walter then jumps into his 4x4, crosses the river, and makes it even clearer that he can’t roam freely on private land reserved exclusively for campers. In the afternoon, he reinforces his point by installing a chain with a friend. What a character this Walter, he never stops: between 4x4 rounds, motorbike trips, tractor rides, power cuts and fixes, sweeping and weeding, he runs everything. He keeps an eye on the campers, ensures security, and adds his personal touch to the site’s upkeep. Together with Emiliana, they make a unique and very endearing couple. Jenny explores the campsite and finds beautiful areas near the river, despite the geese being a little too territorial. Every evening, Emiliana, the “Big Boss,” goes around chatting with everyone, while Walter patrols with their little allergic dachshund and their big limping but impressive dog. Tonight, Jenny even heard him talking to the geese... We feel good here, truly safe. The day has been very peaceful at the campsite, marked by two key moments. First, the departure of Lia and Peter, a super adorable and athletic couple with whom we bonded so well. True to herself, Lia climbed the hill by bike this morning, impressive given the elevation! They’re heading in another direction, but we really hope to keep in touch. In the evening, a new meeting with Martin and Violette, two French cyclists. They’re travelling during their holidays, have already cycled through Asia, Greece, and Italy, and are just starting Slovenia. They stay only one night, but the exchange is warm and friendly. As for meals, simple and efficient: muesli and bananas for breakfast, a minimalist Greek salad for lunch (thanks Lidl), and pasta with tomato sauce without cheese for dinner.

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Stay tuned for more in our next episode…

Jenny & Ahmed