Jenny & Ahmed's Cycling Adventure

Paths 2 The Soul - Episode 020

From Spodnje Gorje to Ljubljana (26 to 28 May 2025)

Countries Visited :

From Bled to Ljubljana: magic, rain and a flat tyre...

From the fairy-tale gorges of Vintgar to the magical springs of Zelenci, including a peaceful night at the apartment and a return to the Slovenian roads all the way to Ljubljana, this week was a blend of contemplation, technical mishaps, rain, grandiose landscapes and joyful fatigue.

Day at the apartment...

We got up at dawn to go directly to Vintgar Gorge and buy tickets for the 8 a.m. visit. But there was a big misunderstanding: you can only buy the tickets online for 15 euros, and there were no more spots before 10 a.m. We were really disappointed, especially as a large group of tourists showed up. So, we headed back to the apartment. Later in the morning, Jenny cycled without the panniers to the parking area to buy the tickets, which were supposed to cost 10 euros instead of 15. Another disappointment: there is now only one rate, 15 euros. She finally buys those tickets and heads into town to get some groceries. Then we stay at the apartment to work, and in the late afternoon we take a bus to the centre of Bled. We walk along the lake and climb the little mountain opposite to get the viewpoint over the lake, Ojstrica view point. That spot quickly falls into the mountain’s shadow as the sun sets behind us. There are very few people, and we even get to enjoy the view alone for a few moments. We walk back to the apartment while recording the video for our blog episode.

Between gorges, lakes and springs: an unforgettable excursion day...

We woke up at 6:30, had a quick breakfast, and by 7:20 we were on our way back to Vintgar Gorge, this time with tickets in hand. At the opening time, 8:00 sharp, we were among the first to enter. The audio guide, accessible via QR codes in Slovenian and English, was interesting, but very quickly it was the raw beauty of the place that captivated us. The Radovna River, lined with walkways suspended above turquoise water, was breathtaking. With hairnets and helmets on, we advanced slowly, letting the group ahead move on. Everything was secure, and we enjoyed the calm to take our photos in peace. Only 17 km long, the Radovna carved out this spectacular canyon at the end of the last glaciation. Over 1.6 km, the walkways wind between cliffs, rapids, potholes, mosses and ferns, under the quiet watch of trout and diving birds. The 13-metre-high Šum waterfall marked the end of the trail. Beside it, a small hydroelectric plant and an elegant 19th-century railway bridge still in use reminded us of human ingenuity. For the return, we chose the forest loop via Saint Catherine’s Church. The path gently climbed through pastures and forests, and opened up to a 180° panorama: Lake Bled, the Karavanke, the Julian Alps. We crossed paths with sheep, horses, and even a mare with her foal. A peaceful return, almost suspended in time. Back at the apartment, express mission: post our blog episode before the 11:46 bus. We made it just in time, heading to Lesce, then Kranjska Gora. Between the two, a cappuccino and a little surprise video for Patrick’s birthday, Jenny’s colleague. The 47-minute bus ride was through heavy rain, but it eased up on arrival. Quick shopping at Mercator, 14 euros for a simple but comforting picnic. It's off-season, and the atmosphere in Kranjska Gora was calm. We walked up along the river to Lake Jasna. White pebbles, crystal-clear water, shifting sky: the place was stunning. Lunch facing the mountains, with our favourite breads: Jenny’s version with cheese, tomatoes, onions, crisps; Ahmed’s with mortadella. We enjoyed the changing light over this spectacular view. After a short walk around the lake, we took the bus to the Zelenci reserve. A few kilometres on foot along the road and then a trail. We arrived under the rain and were greeted by a noisy Dutch school group. We sheltered in the woods and waited for them to leave. Then, as if by magic, silence returned, the rain stopped, and the sun broke through. The site transformed. We observed the springs bubbling gently beneath the surface, the sediments shifting in colour, the fish hunting, and a calm duck seeming totally at home. Jenny took dozens of photos, of course. We lingered a bit longer, then headed back via a quiet side road, still in awe of the cleared mountains, marshes, and meadows. At the bus stop, lots of laughter as we ate our Bled cakes (custard and whipped cream) with our hands, no cutlery. Back in Lesce, 40 minutes of waiting. Jenny tried to pronounce “Spodnje Gorje” to the driver: complete fail, but big laughs. A Slovenian woman kindly taught us the correct pronunciation. It was past 9 p.m. when we got home. Exhausted after 18 km of walking, we jumped in the shower. Jenny wrote in her journal. Ahmed watched an Egyptian movie with Adel Imam on YouTube. A long, beautiful, intense day... and full of magic.

From Spodnje Gorje to Ježica, near Ljubljana...

Spodnje Gorje → Ljubljana - 61.1 km 🚴

We’re back on the road with our bikes, yay! Getting back into the rhythm of the journey is exhilarating, even if, let’s admit it, the comfort of an apartment was very much appreciated. But it’s time to move a bit faster: Slovenia is beautiful, but our route is still long, and every day puts pressure on the budget. We’ve now mapped our route all the way to Croatia. Wake-up around 6:45, with everything to pack because the evening before, fatigue had gotten the best of us. We each get moving: breakfast, checking the bikes, inflating the tires, installing the panniers, and a last little clean-up of the apartment. At 10:15, we hop on our bikes: we’re off. We ride through Bled, pass by Lesce, then the small villages follow one another. Ahmed climbs every hill without putting a foot down: hats off! We stop at a new supermarket chain, “Tux,” to buy something for lunch. The road continues with another climb. This time, we both stay on the bikes, despite the effort. It’s already 1 p.m., we’re getting hungry, but there’s no pleasant spot in sight. One more climb, and then, almost at the top, shaded benches appear: perfect. We enjoy homemade sandwiches with special bread, spreadable cheese, green peppers, olive oil, arugula, salt and pepper. A well-deserved 1.5-hour break, with even a mini-nap for Jenny. Starting off again after lunch, especially uphill, is never very fun. We decide to keep riding until 5 p.m. before looking for a place to sleep. But something feels off: Ahmed seems to be struggling to keep up with Jenny, which is unusual. The reason soon becomes clear: his rear tire has slowly deflated until completely flat, and he almost fell. First real mechanical issue of the trip... He reinflates the tire and we continue as best we can. But very soon, we enter the outskirts of Ljubljana. The change is sudden: big busy roads, rushed drivers, bike lanes under construction that lead nowhere. We take quieter residential streets, almost deserted, with small gardens. We ask two passersby for directions and they point us toward a campsite. We decide to abandon the idea of door-to-door tonight, we need to deal with the tire problem. We arrive at the campsite, a bit outside the city, on a relatively flat road. It’s a huge complex, not very charming, with tightly packed pitches. No discount possible. We set up next to the others, on a somewhat bumpy but shaded ground, because rain is forecast. We quickly pitch the tent. Ahmed takes care of it while Jenny prepares soup and pasta with pesto, hoping to beat the storm. Around us, sparrows, pigeons, and a squirrel lurk, ready for the smallest crumb. The rain eventually comes, but we had time to set up and pack everything. Jenny ends the evening with a herbal tea and a call to her mom. Then, shower time before retreating to the tent. The night is generally good, despite the pollen allergy and the nocturnal visit of an animal sniffing around the tent, most likely a fox.

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Stay tuned for more in our next episode…

Jenny & Ahmed