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Kostas Ntanos designs DIY papercraft templates that you can download and start making immediately, using cardstock and glue. Equip yourself with creativity and make a truly unique low-poly paper mask to impress at a masquerade party, school project or festival. Enjoy the making process and have fun wearing your creation.
We have created 12 different designs that you can download (for FREE!) to print, assemble, and customize yourself! The designs vary in difficulty from easy to challenging, and they should fit most children and adults!
The lightweight, 100% Cotton paper mask features a 96% natural ingredient formula that is also rich in citrus fruit extracts and Aloe that help hydrate and protect skin while leaving it naturally radiant.
I recently started to play The Elder Scrolls V: Skyrim again and while I was fighting a bunch of dragons and wandering around for hours to find all the Dragon Priest's masks, I wondered how to make my own mask - in real life. I think I'm not the only one thinking that these masks just look damn great, so I searched the internet for a tutorial on building one. So, in this Instructable I'll show you how to build your own Krosis, Morokei or another one of the Gang. ;)
To open and print this file you'll need the freeware "Pepakura viewer". It's a program to open .pdo-files and quite easy to use. Just open the file and you'll see the 3D-model on the left, and the single parts on the right. You can even see where each single part belongs in the model, if you put the cursor on it. I recommend to turn on the "Edge ID" before printing. This will add some small numbers on the edges and will help you a lot while glueing together all the parts. But if you're really into puzzles and stuff, you can try building it without the IDs (but seriously, don't! I once made that mistake and it took me hours to find where each part belonged.)
For printing you should use thick paper, not regular 80g/sqm. I think you should at least use 150g/sqm or even heavier. Otherwise the built is likely to be deformed or will just collapse. Cut out the parts with scissors or a x-acto knife, fold them on the printed lines (there are two types of folds in pepakura: mountain folds (---, folded down: ^) and valley folds (-.-.-, folded up \/) and glue the whole thing together. You can use regular glue for that. Take your time here and be pacient.
Be careful here and only work with this outside! Don't use it inside of your flat. These are some serious chemicals and espacially polyester resin develops fumes which will definitely do no good to your health. So just use it outside and maybe even use a respiratory mask and rubber gloves while working. You also should put on some old clothes here, you won't get resin out of your clothes and I bet you don't want the brand new shirt that you love so much to be ruined. Also you should cover the ground/table with newspapers or a plastic foil so your terrace, table or wherever you're going to work on your piece is resined, too.
Read the manufactor's instructions on the resin and use it just like they say. If you decide to use epoxy resin (doesn't smells so bad like polyester resin) you have to be very careful with the measurements. Exactly mix the Hardener and the Resin like the guide says! Otherwise it won't harden at all.
(Resin is not the cheapest stuff, so I've read about some alternatives to resin, e.g. wood glue mixed with water or even flour mixed with milk, but I don't find these strong enough to get the same result as I got with epoxy or polyester resin.)
So when you've mixed your resin, put it all over the mask. I prefer to do this in two steps: Outside - let it dry - inside. Let the resin soak the paper and be careful not to deform your piece and keep it in shape. When the resin is dry it will be quite hard to get out any deformations. When the first layers of resin are dry, you'll notice that the paper now feels like thin plastic.
I used fibreglass mat (300g/sqm) and cut it into small pieces. Also soak them with resin and put them on the mask. Only put this on the inside, not on the outside! Be sure you cover every part of the mask and let it dry. You can put on several layers to make it even stronger. When it's dry you'll see that the mask is now no longer like paper. It's like thick plastic and not bendable anymore. That's how you want it to be. If it's too thin, put on some more covers of fiberglass.
Now you'll need the body filler. You can get it in hardware stores or stores like walmart. Normally it's used to get dents out of your car or something like that. I used some cheaper stuff from the internet.
Apply small layers of body filler to fill the polygonal shape. Don't put on too much, otherwise you'll probably never will finish sanding it later ;). Mix small badges of filler and just put on the amount that you need to cover the edges and make it look smooth.
For the first rough parts I used a delta sander with rough sanding paper but you can also do it by hand. Sand it until you're satisfied with the surface and use different sanding paper. Use finer grit with every step. I think I sanded until 240 sanding paper, but you can even go finer and wetsand it with these extra-fine grit paper.
While sanding you'll notice thousands of little bumps, holes and other error-spots in the filler. So mix a new badge of body filler and, well, fill them up ;). You will have to repeat sanding and filling and sanding and filling a few times. Be pacient and do so until your result is like you wanted it.
Spray an even coat of Primer on the mask and you'll notice that there are more errors left in the surface than you thought. You can now repeat sanding and filling the small spots or you can decide to leave it like that. I decided to leave it a bit rough and uneven because these masks are old and weathered and I don't think the Dragon Priests have time to polish their masks while all the dragon-worshipping. No way they're smooth like a baby's bottom ;).
I bought some cans of spray paint in different colors. First I sprayed silver all over the mask to get a metal-ish grounding. Then I tried to add some acrylic paint to make the mask look oldy dirty and weathered. Well, that turned out to look like crap so I decided to re-paint it later on.
Just play around with the paint and be creative here, this part is the most fun. For example you can water down the paint a little bit, use brushes or sponges to add details or even put real dirt on it to make it look weathered. This is a try-and-error-part where you can play around with the paint.
Now you have you're own Dragon Priest's Mask and can go worship the old dragons of Skyrim. I hope you'll enjoy buliding your own mask and write some feedback in the comments and add pictures of your own masks.
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The masks are extremely thin (2 layers) but very hard, strong, and flexible. The gesso doubles the strength and rigidity without making it the least bit brittle (absolutely no cracking from extreme flexing). The real key to sandability is the small proportion of PVA and the addition of Talc which delays the clogging of the sandpaper with the PVA glue. The clay aids the sandability but for practical purposes, it is used to control thickness or the mixture
In the following photo, the mask on the left is sanded porcelain smooth but still has a few touch-ups (dark spots) in progress. The mask on the right has the first wet coat applied. The finished gesso layer is at least 1/16-inch thick which gives lots of room for sanding.
The Hydrostone Plaster mold has the same density as Marble 10,000psi and is a wonderful product to work with. Same principle as plaster of paris which is useless for this process. I would use nothing softer than Hydrocal which is 5,000psi.
The banding layer acts to reinforce (double up) the edge of the mask. It is temporarily folded back out of the way and onto the plaster ledge while 2 more layers of paper are added to the mold. The second photo shows the band folded back out of the way.
This is Eleanor and she is a different story. The model for Eleanor was of course, Eleanor! After liberally coating her features with Vaseline, a mold was taken by building up layers of plaster soaked cheesecloth. I do not have the original negative mold because it was sacrificed to make this Hydrostone plaster mold.
I really like this recipe and I am trying to follow it myself to make carta Lana paper. I understand Robert no longer responds on here, do you know how the wool is processed into a slurry? Sounds silly I know but I have alpaca fleece and it merely clumps in the blender, and makes wierd hairy paper.. I imagine I am doing something wrong, but there is barely any information out there about this other than this one page!
see fabulous Italian mask here _curated_object_/2011/12/exhibitions-cordoba-eugenia-scavino-venetian-masks-gabriela-perez-guaita-maria-elena-kravetz-gallery.html
How do you think the pieces that radiate out were made?
You mentioned making your own Carta Lana paper. Here in the UK it can be bought from an online retailer called Squires Shop. They sell it in two different weights. At first I was going to buy this, but then when I read you can make your own, I figured I might give it a shot. 152ee80cbc
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