An elegiac travel diary as the renowned historian travels through Greek Orthodox, Armenian, Syria, Marionite, and Coptic communities from Mt Athos through the Middle East to the birthplace of monasticism in the Egyptian desert.

Dalrymple writes with a triple vision: following the footsteps of the monk John Moschos, a near-contemporary of the prophet Muhammad, just before the tide went out on the Eastern Roman Empire; reflections on early christianity; and the desperate situation of Christians today in the Middle East:

"Christianity is a Middle Eastern religion.... 'Antioch was one of the first centres of the Early Church... St Peter and Paul both preached here. According to the Acts of the Apostles it was in Antioch that the Disciples were first called Christian. But now there are barely two hundred families left'."