A Whale of a Time

For many “having a whale of a time” is just a manner of speech, but for us in the Eastern Arctic, on the 60th parallel it does involve actual “whales”. Narwhales frequent our waters every summer. The whale of special interest to the Inuit people is the Bowhead whale which unlike right whales, are not an endangered species and is allowed to be harvested once a year by a specially selected town. Naujaat was fortunate in 2013 and really had “a whale of a time” literally!

This was my second time to witness the hunt. The entire community of 1250 residents waited in anticipation once the team of hunters spotted the whale in the Hudson Bay, a few hundred km. from the shoreline. This hunt could take several days. They did it in three days.

There was joy and jubilation when the Bowhead whale was sited and harpooned then finally towed to the shores of Naujaat. The entire community was at the water’s edge to welcome the hunters who brought them their veryspecial “maktar” (whale blubber). The residents had the first taste of their favourite delicacy, that they long for. The Maktar is enjoyed fresh and raw. Pieces are cut off from the whale using a sharp ulu (inuit 1⁄2 moon shaped knife). For everyone it is a big event and celebration down to the little 2 year old little girl who had the fat all over her face. I enjoy making a curry with the whale blubber having removed the excess fat. I used a Goan Receipe book by Elsie Antonette Maciel and followed the Traditional Goan Tripe dish receipe, it was really very tasty that my Inuit friends enjoyed it as well. It was their first time to taste maktar cooked with Goan spices.

Inuit culture is preserved by maintaining their traditional diet harvested for the land and sea. This is food that is consumed without preservatives. Today research scientists have proven that Bowhead whale genes contain characteristics that help stave off cancer and the problem related to ageing.

The Bowhead whale is a very large mammal weighing about 110 tons. The whale blubber is 20 inches thick. Every part of the Bowhead whale is utilized and serves the people. The skeleton-bones was used in the construction of the sod-houses, making of harpoons, bow-and-arrow, komitiks (sleds) and the sinew as sewing threads for making clothing. The stomach lining was stretched and used for windows in the sod-houses and for making tents. The sleds were made from the jaw of the bowhead whale. All the maktar and whale meat distributed as food for all the other communities. The hunters fed their dogs with the meat as well. In the mouth of the whale are 15 feet long baleen. This is used to make ornaments and crafts. Whale oil was used to light the (kudlik) inuit lamp for cooking and heat and light. This lamp is made of soapstone.

Maria adds:

Having been born in Nairobi Kenya which is on the Equator, I feel privileged to be here on the Arctic Circle for the past 26 years to experience and live in a different culture and climate. The winters here dip down to – 50 C.!!!!

Acknowledgements :

1. To the Gov. of Nunavut for no issue with my write-up

2. To Dr Ribeiro Goan School alumni website for display of the article at https://sites.google.com/site/drgshome/

3. To all my Goan co-nationals in Canada and abroad I wish to let you know that I value and maintain our Goan traditions and cuisine.

4. To Elsie Antonette Maciel (of UK) for her “Goan Cookery Book”, first published in 1983

5. To John J. D’Souza for inviting me to share my thoughts.

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