FUSE began in 2013. Elsallal dreamed of creating an all-metallic wideband phased array antenna that would be easily scalable across the frequency spectrum. He explored options for pursuing his vision, but none panned out.

My antenna is broken off and every time I turn off the Pathy with the radio on, the antenna motor makes this horrible grinding noise. It's trying to pull in the antenna but since it's broken, it doesn't go in.


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I'm not sure, but I'd imagine the fuse protects a circuit with a few things on it including the antenna motor so pulling it would disable stuff you don't want to. Your best bet would be either disconnecting the power at the antenna motor or replacing it. Maybe someone with an R50 can chime in and help you locate the power connector.

Your automatic antenna raise and lower issues could be caused by a bad fuse

(#3 (15A) fuse in the Main Fuse Panel or the inline fuse located inside the

center console), a bad antenna delay relay (green relay located nearby the

antenna assembly), faulty wiring or other issues (motor or mast).

There is a White wire coming out of the radio connector that connects to a

White/Pink wire going to the Antenna Delay Relay that tells the antenna to

raise or lower . There is a Black ground wire from the Antenna Delay Relay

that could be a problem. A Brown/Purple wire from the #3 fuse powers the

Antenna Delay Relay (should raise immediately or lower after a 12 second

delay). Any of these wires or their connectors can be the problem.

Your automatic antenna raise and lower issues could be caused by a bad fuse (#3 (15A) fuse in the Main Fuse Panel or the inline fuse located inside the center console), a bad antenna delay relay (green relay located nearby the antenna assembly), faulty wiring or other issues (motor or mast).

There is a White wire coming out of the radio connector that connects to a White/Pink wire going to the Antenna Delay Relay that tells the antenna to raise or lower . There is a Black ground wire from the Antenna Delay Relay that could be a problem. A Brown/Purple wire from the #3 fuse powers the Antenna Delay Relay (should raise immediately or lower after a 12 second delay). Any of these wires or their connectors can be the problem.

Your automatic antenna raise and lower issues could be caused by a bad

fuse (#3 (15A) fuse in the Main Fuse Panel or the inline fuse located inside

the center console), a bad antenna delay relay (green relay located nearby

the antenna assembly), faulty wiring or other issues (motor or mast).

Looks like Kirby was right. I wound up releasing the last amount of smoke and the antenna gave up the ghost. This was probably just the last

remnants of the ghost leaving.

Ptipon

Sonora/CA, 90 XJS-V12 conv, United States

There are two fuses for the radio and antenna, fuse #14 and #22. Removing both should keep the battery from going dead.

Disconnect the antenna motor at the base of the motor to remove it from the system, if the radio lights still turn on with the ignition off the problem may be in the radio.

If you disconnected the antenna power you should be OK till you get the antenna repaired. In fact, if the antenna mast is out of the fender a few inches the radio should work and there would be no rush to get anything done. You might be amazed at how quickly and easily the problem will be solved when the dealerships mechanic gets his hands on it.

You may need a new radio. More often than not the speakers cutting out is an internal radio problem and may indicate that the antenna problem is also related to the radio. The antenna should extend fully when the radio is on and retract fully when the radio is off.

Hi Michelle, fuse #14 powers the clock memory, radio, lighter and dome light. If the over head dome light switch is left in the on position with the fuse removed you may experience some odd side effects.

Mine did the same thing 2004 Mazda Miata. I just took out the fuse for the Antenna. My radio is fine but just prior to this my CD player stopped working its all One Unit. Not sure now what to do replace antenna radio/cd player or all my fuses.

I have a Legacy GT 98.Ii just bought a power antenna from ebay (30$ instead of 300$ at Subaru. It fits perfectly but it doesn't work. motor seems to stay off even when i powered the radio. So my question is...where is the fuse for the power antenna... i know i have a fuse box in hood but is there an other one inside? i guess it is the fuse the problem (or the antenna itself...but i don't think it is) there's 3 wires + radio wire on the new antenna like the old antenna.. except original Subaru antenna wires are black, white and yellow but the new antenna wires are black, blue and red... I've tried any combo and nothing happen (reception if ok tho)

what u mean, the aftermarket one wasn't working? why you bought back a factory (Subaru?) ? Do you know if there's a fuse for the power antenna somewhere? any way i'll try the antenna on a 12v source tomorrow see first if it works.

My power antenna is broken, but the motor inside it still works (untill I unplugged it). are there replacement masts for the power antennas in our cars? I saw one at advance for fords, and it was like $15. I would like this option much more then replaceing the whole expensive antenna, although that would be easier...

I have a 2016 X1 and neither of the key fobs are working. I want to check the fuse, but I am missing the diagram that identifies which of the fuses is for the antenna. Does anyone know which fuse to check?

Is there a fuse for only the power antenna. Mine is broken and makes a god awful sound every time I turn the car off, for about 30 seconds. If anyone can tell me where the fuse is, I can disconnect and all will be great.

Sounds more like the white nylon thingy that extends and retracks the antenna is broken. Mine went a while ago and you're right the motor for the antenna is a mongrel to get to. I think that you could probaly replace the nylon thing but I haven't woprked out how to do so yet, maybe someone else could help out? I ended up disconnecting the motor until I can fix or replace it.

from there its a case of turning on the radio and letting the motor go all the way up. then feeding the antenna cable back into the motor and turning off the radio. should reload easily. from there screw the top nut on and you are done.

I have a 94 GMC Vandura - Recently the cigarette lighter and radio antenna stopped working. The radio comes on just fine but the antenna no longer comes up when it is powered on so the stations come in static for the most part.

I don't know the answer to your question about the fuse, but my antenna does not go all of the way up anymore. I've tried WD 40, cleaning it with windex and having someone pull on it when it is going up. So far nothing was worked.

If your antenna has stopped extending and retracting, its possible the nylon cable that drives it has broken. Take a listen when you turn the radio on/off and see if you hear the antenna motor running. If you hear the motor but the antenna doesnt move its likely the cable has broken. If you dont hear the motor it may be that the motor has died. My experiene has been that its usually the cable that fails.

Unfortunately , the replacement diagram from the manual doesnt mention that IF the cable has broken there will be a broken off piece of cable still left in the antenna motor assembly. This will need to be removed before you insert the new shaft/cable.

of the motor assembly due to the configuration of the worm-gear drive mechanism. If the the nylon cable is broken, you 'll likely need to disassemble the motor housing anyhow to get the broken piece out. in any case you might try just removing the nut first and see what you find as you'll need to do that anyway to get the new antenna in. Dont worry about the plasitc fasteners, they pop out when you pry them enough and once you see how they work you wont worry about them any longer. Its a bit of a tedious process and it does require removing a few panels so keep track of where everything went. Nothing is really super complicated it just requires a bit of time to take everyhting apart, oh and yes you'll definitely need to remove the big side panel to get at the antenna

Yes, only to control the characteristic impedance of the antenna trace. Without a ground plane it is very difficult to ensure 50Ω. For such a short trace, you may get away with it, but you might find that depending on where you place your prototyping board, or how close you hand comes to it, has a big effect on the reception performance of the antenna. 2351a5e196

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