Morioka Wanko Soba
盛岡わんこそば

"It is much of an experience; to expose yourself to the culture and beat yourself for the record."

-Marisa Howe

Historical Background

The origin of Wanko Soba is unclear, with two main theories: the Hanamaki theory and the Morioka theory.

The Hanamaki theory dates back about 370 years, when Lord Toshinao of the Nanbu clan stopped in Hanamaki during his journey to Hanamaki. Local residents served him soba in small flat bowls, which he greatly enjoyed and repeatedly asked for more.

The Morioka theory says that Hara Takashi, a prominent statesman known as the "commoner prime minister," popularized the dish. During his visit to Morioka, his love for soba led him to declare that "soba should be served in small bowls," which helped spread the tradition.

In both regions, it was customary to serve soba to guests as a way to show hospitality. To accommodate large groups, freshly cooked soba was served in small portions, which is believed to be the root of Wanko Soba. The practice of quickly offering refills reflects the local custom of otebachi, emphasizing warm and generous hospitality.

Characteristics

Wanko soba is a unique and interactive local dish where small portions of hot soba noodles are served in one bowl at a time. With lively calls like "Hai, dokkoi! Jan-jan!" from the server, customers enjoy the noodles while adding a variety of toppings, such as grated nameko mushrooms, tuna, white sesame seeds, green onions, shiso leaves, seaweed, and seasonal ingredients. Refills continue endlessly until the customer is satisfied.

Placing the lid on the bowl signals the end of the meal. Typically, about 15 small bowls are equivalent to one standard serving of soba, though this may vary by restaurant.

The essence of Wanko Soba is not about competitive eating or speed but about enjoying freshly prepared, warm, and delicious soba.

Taking time to have each bowl from the first to the last is one of the best ways to appreciate the dish.

Photo by CHANG, CHAN-LUN

Where to eat

Azumaya (東家)

Established in 1907, Azumaya is a long-standing soba restaurant and one of the most popular places to enjoy wanko soba in Morioka, a signature dish that reflects the spirit of Iwate’s warm hospitality. Currently managed by the fifth-generation owner, the restaurant continues to delight locals and tourists alike with its unique dining experience.

Their handmade soba is carefully prepared to be soft and smooth for easy swallowing. The lively shouts from the servers as they add noodles to your bowl create an exciting atmosphere, making it not just a meal but a form of entertainment.

Address: 1 Chome-8-3 Nakanohashidori, Morioka, Iwate 020-0871

Hours:

Lunch: 11:00–15:00
Dinner: 17:00–19:00

Access:

By Walking: About 30 minutes’ walk from JR Morioka Station or JR Kamimorioka Station.
By Bus: From JR Morioka Station, there are several bus routes passing through Azumaya, and it takes about 15 minutes.
By Car: About 20 minutes from Morioka IC on the Tohoku Expressway, Azumaya has partnered with several nearby parking lots to offer an hourly parking credit.

Direct Voice from Marisa Howe

I went to Azumaya, one of the most traditional Wanko Soba shops. The soba itself tasted really good! You can enjoy many different flavours with many different kinds of 'yakumi' throughout your Wanko Soba journey. I still can't forget the high-tone voice of the restaurant staff, saying, "Hai, Chan Chan!" "Hai, Mada mada!" "Hai, gannbatte!" encouraging me to eat more at a fast pace.

It is sort of a battle with yourself. You are told to use the washroom before the Wanko Soba session starts, as you are not allowed to leave your seat during the session. I was told that women's average is about 30 bowls and men's is about 60, so "good luck to aim above the average." When you eat, you slurp the bowl with one big sip and eat the soba. You are also told to throw the soup away into the big bowl when necessary. When you are full, you are meant to close the lid. Once finished, everyone can get a paper certificate. But be careful. If you throw up, you reset to zero points. You can get a special wooden certificate if you eat more than 100 Wanko Soba. I ate 105! only to realize my desire to receive the wooden certificate. It was worth the experience.

Certificates