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I'm now down to trying to decide what nib to get in my 149. I normally write with a fine but don't think a little line would be what I would want out of my 149. Also I have read that the fine nib can be toothy. I'd like to avoid having to send the nib out to get it smoothed.

I've read the comparisons and pinned topics on this forum, but was wondering if anyone would like to post there own thoughts, recommendations or biases for going for the medium or broad. Writing samples would be absolutely wonderful.

I normally write with a Namiki Falcon in Fine and have attached a copy of my scrawl below, this was when I first took to writing with a fountain pen and now my writing seems a little larger. My reading is that the fine is a little toothy and I'd like to go for a smoooth writer.

There are fans for all the many variants of nibs on this forum and it really does get down to personal preference in the end. Try a few different nibs until you feel the one for you. I normally go for oblique or cursive italic nibs on my MB's and seldom stick with what comes out of the factory. Great pen the 149 and a fine choice you have made.

MB B nibs tend to be stubbish, which feels great for sketching and writing if your handwriting leans towards the large, but as an avid F nib user it was frustrating at first as I tend to write in small and tight handwriting. I too, am a leftie underwriter, and with time I seem to have been able to find a way to make it work because those B nibs feel great to use. But word of advice, the 149 nibs tend to be on the larger nib size scale. So if you like F nibs, then a EF would be closer to your expectation.

The best thing to do is to try these nibs in person, but if that's not an option, and you want to try something new, then a B would certainly be that. Worst case you'll send it for a nib swap since you have some time to try it out and get a free nib change. At least then you can say that you tried it. You might actually like it.

Congratulations on stepping up to the MB 149. I've owned and used a 149 daily for thirty years. I have more expensive pens than the 149; I have fancier pens than the 149; but I've never found a better pen than the 149.

My original 149 is a medium nib, reground into a Cursive Italic shape to give broader vertical strokes and narrower horizontal strokes. The MB factory Medium nib tip is spherical, so their is no line width variation with stock MB M nibs. The line width variation you see in my handwriting is because of the Cursive Italic regrind I had done after purchase.

If that's standard college ruled notebook paper in your writing sample, your handwriting takes up less than half the vertical space of standard college rule. A MB Broad nib would likely fill in the loops of your small handwriting.

As others have mentioned, MB Broad and BB nibs have an ovoid shape, so they are stubbish in character - that is they give your handwriting some line width variation - wider vertical strokes and narrower horizontal strokes. Try the MB Broad at a MB Boutique or Authorized Dealer - but be sure you test the pen with your standard size handwriting. I think the B nib will fill in your loops.

To estimate the line width needed to give your own handwriting a classically proportionate look, write out the alphabet in small case letters, using your normal sized handwriting - the size in which you write most often. Then circle the miniscules. Miniscules are small case letters without ascenders or descenders: a,c,e,m,n,o,r,s,u,v,w,x

Carefully measure the height of each miniscule in millimeters and average the series. To get the most accurate result, you'll have to find and use an optical micrometer (a magnifying lens with a tiny ruler inscribed on the far lens).

Remember this calculation applies to line width, not nib width - because nibs of the same width but differing shapes can lay down lines of differing width. So you'll also have to take your caliper to the Montblanc Boutique to measure the line width of the pens you are considering. I prefer a 0.9 mm cursive italic line for daily writing and a 1.1 mm cursive italic for my social carry - always ultra-smooth, and always ultra-wet.

1. Use good fountain pen ink. MB says use only theirs to keep the warranty. I use Aurora Black and Private Reserve American Blue. Warning - Noodlers Bay State Blue will permanently stain the ink view window of your new 149 - but that's the tradoff for a waterproof, tamperproof, fraudproof ink. As I said, I use Aurora Black and Private Reserve American Blue.

2. Flush and soak the pen at least monthly, or the writing will start to skip. Flush the ink repeatedly with tepid water until clear. Then immerse the pen in water up to the mid-section overnight. Then flush again and refill.

Oh - one last point - MB Fine nibs are NOT toothy. If you buy a MB Fine nib and the writing is scratchy, then the nib is damaged - take it back to MB for free repair or take the pen to a Nibmeister for smoothing. MB nibs are traditionally glassy smooth - that's one of the marque's primary appeals.

I think yachtsilverswan gave a lot of useful information. From my side, I want just to add that broader nibs in the size of the 149 really require to use a larger handwriting, or the loops will close. Probably, compared to your Namiki, a M nib for the 149 will give you a sensible increase in line width. You may also have a look to a previous post comparing some 149 nibs (unfortunately, no bold) with some calligraphic and normal handwriting samples at -five-149-nibs-writing-samples/page__p__2119157__fromsearch__1#entry2119157

Slightly off topic but looking at the Pope Julius 888 writing sample in brought me to thinking where you would stand if the nib tuner completely hashed it up destroying the nib? I had my Dickens 'done' by a well established UK nib chap and was very pleased with the result but had it gone as badly wrong as it could where does the tuner or customer get another WE / LE nib from and who foots, what I presume would be, a very expensive bill?

It has happened in some context or another before (not myself, but I know of a well known person who has). Worst case scenario is perhaps that one of the nibmeisters like Greg or John Mottishaw could retip the nib although that would never be 'quite' the same ... and altering the value, it would write very well as a user pen. I've had a MB 149 retipped by John which I'm very satisfied with! Best scenario would be that MB replace the nib and nibmeister covers the cost!

Slightly off topic but looking at the Pope Julius 888 writing sample brought me to thinking where you would stand if the nib tuner completely hashed it up destroying the nib? I had my Dickens 'done' by a well established UK nib chap and was very pleased with the result but had it gone as badly wrong as it could where does the tuner or customer get another WE / LE nib from and who foots, what I presume would be, a very expensive bill?

So one choice would be to send the damaged nib to MB for a replacement nib and pay the costs. At least until recently, MB still had nibs available for the PJ II 888 and most other POA pens. That option, because it clearly would not be covered by MB's warranty, would likely run $500-$700 on the PJ II 888.

More likely, the nibmeister would just re-tip the nib, and then re-grind the newly re-tipped pen. I've had a number of higher end pens re-tipped when the medium or fine nib they came with was not broad enough for me. So the Nibmeister added more gold to the tines, added a new and bigger iridium ball, and then re-ground the new bigger tip to the size I like. The aesthetic result is undetectable, and the functional result is glassy smooth at the right width.

I actually had a valuable pen suffer damage during re-grinding. The iridium tip of a rare prototype pen cracked off the end of the tine during re-grinding. The Nibmeister explained what happened, explained there was nothing he could have done to anticipate or prevent the damage, and then he re-tipped the damaged nib. Because his actions were not the cause, I covered the $300 cost of re-tipping. The nib was likely flawed at manufacture, but had never been as stressed as during re-grinding. That pen is now one of my best writers. The risk of those kinds of accidents is risk I'm willing to bear to get the pen I want. If I told a Nibmeister, "If anything goes wrong, even if it's not your fault, I expect you to cover the costs of making it right," well if I told any Nibmeister that, I would expect the Nibmeister to decline work on expensive pens - the cost to replace or repair unexpected, no-fault damage would outweigh the profit from any tuning. 152ee80cbc

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