Megasquirt Base Maps Download __LINK_

Hey dudes. Does anyone have or know of a stock or base map for 1.8vvt miata? I'm running it n/a and for the live of god I can't find it anywhere. I got a MS labs MS3 mini and there is a possibilizy that it might have a basemap already pre-loaded in it but just in case, I want to have a back up. Thanks

Juan, all the mapsharing is in the Faq's under Components, then Megasquirt. As Letitsnow has said you have to adjust the required fuel. Make sure the timing in megatune is the same as when checking your timing with a timing light. You can do this by just having someone crank the engine for you and you check timing with the light. After doing the timing check and adjustment, I would try spraying some starting fluid in the intake to help get her running.

Megasquirt Base Maps Download

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it is possible to setup the offset and base timing so the table is what the timing light sees so you don't have to do some quick math in your head everytime you look at it and if so you should state that

The above maps are base maps, tuned for a near stock N/A car (up to 100kpa), but scaled for boost. Everything above 100kpa is untuned, but as we expect many people to want to boost these cars we went ahead and scaled the maps for boost so you wouldn't have to rescale them and retune (or carefully rescale) the entire n/a area when you do that. You must tune for boost when starting with these maps if your are running forced induction. And as they are a base map you should really fine tune everything for your particular setup n/a or boosted as they're all just a bit different anyways...

These maps are provided to assist advanced users with specific purposes. They are NOT meant to be final maps, but in specific circumstances can serve as a closer base map for a modified vehicle. Use at your own risk.

MSPNP_MM9093_ ITA_JT16_Base_Map_102908.msq This is a fully tuned base map for an SCCA Improved Touring '91 Miata (ITA) that ended up making 127whp/113wtq. This is a modified race engine that is fairly far out from a stock engine and needed a significantly different tune. Slightly less timing was needed, and significantly more fuel was needed, than what is configured in the standard base map. This may serve as a better base map for a naturally aspirated full race motor.

The above map is a base map, tuned for a near stock N/A car (up to 100kpa), but scaled for boost. Everything above 100kpa is untuned, but as we expect many people to want to boost these cars we went ahead and scaled the maps for boost so you wouldn't have to rescale them and retune (or carefully rescale) the entire n/a area when you do that. You must tune for boost when starting with these maps if your are running forced induction. And as this is a base map you should really fine tune everything for your particular setup n/a or boosted as they're all just a bit different anyways...

DIYAutoTune.com can't promise non-MSPNP users anything with these maps. They work GREAT with the MSPNP, and you've you're building up a DIY setup for a similar car you'll find some value here as well probably, but if you're board is setup differently you could damage something by using our maps as a shortcut to learning exactly what your car needs with your DIY setup as it can be a bit different (especially ignition settings, which when incorrect can toast ignitors and coils). Also If you're using a different IAC transistor, which you most likely are, then the MSPNP settings will not be just right for your car either and will likely make the valve do funky things. Other settings will likely be off as well. In short non-MSPNP users use this map at your own risk.

Classic Mini DIY is proud to offer a Classic Mini Base ECU Map to all customers. This is the base map for any Classic Mini running EFI. This is intended to be a baseline, starting point map for those of you setting up fuel injection on your Classic Mini's. This map is intended to start your car but not operate it on the road.

Depending on the product orders are fullfilled as follows:

- RTS Clutches - RTS clutches are made to order and can take between 3-4 weeks to assemble and machine depending on current demand.

- Fuel Injection Products - EFI Orders are made to order and ship within 1-2 weeks based on current demand.

- HEL Performance Products - HEL Orders are made to order and ship within 1-2 weeks based on current demand.

- Shift Knobs - Shift knobs are made to order and ship within 1-2 weeks based on current demand.

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This is good question. I had similar project where i converted carb to efi. I took the old distriputer initial timing and total timing and build a map based on that. It didn't work. I hope we get good feedback.

If i start without a base map (megasquirt usually), i put in some reasonable numbers. For example, most engines will be fine on 8 psi of boost with around 15 degrees of timing, so i will put that in, around 25 degrees in part throttle, etc. Then i will start doing steady state tuning, starting with the lowest rpm i can do (usually around 1500 rpm). I will tune that row of fueling, and then the timing in that row according to my torque readout on the dyno. When it stops increasing when adding timing, thats mbt. I will use that row to get an educated idea of what the rest of the part throttle timing will look like, and adjust it a bit. i will then move on to the next rpm, continually adjusting the next row to what my dyno shows in the previous row. Once i get to full throttle, i will do a partial pull, maybe to 5000 rpm, just to see how the engine is going to act according to my fueling/timing numbers. From that point on, i will creep up to mbt, and pull a few degrees out depending on fuel. Thats just a brief summary of it. You cant really do it without a dyno. You can street tune it, but youll never know if you are truly at mbt, or just staying away from the knock threshold. 2351a5e196