The tools are opened on the bottom of the chrome window per default. This is a rather bad choice for a wide screen display since there is plenty of empty space to the right but not much vertical space to spare. Unfortunately, I have found no way to reposition the tools. I would like to have them on the side, similar to firebug.

The only option similar to what I want is to detach the dev tools and place chrome and the tools window side-by-side. This is not very convenient for quickly alt-tabbing from the IDE to the browser and back though, so an "integrated" solution would be nice.


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Chrome plating is the process by which an electrical charge is applied to a plating bath containing an electrolytic salt (chromium anhydride) solution. The electrical charge causes the chromium metal in the bath to fall out of solution and deposit onto various objects (usually metallic) placed into the plating bath. The electrical charge during the chrome plating process causes the hexavalent chromium to be emitted from the bath as an aerosol that, once emitted from the facility, can be inhaled and entrained inside the lungs. Thus, hexavalent chromium emissions have the potential to adversely impact public health on a statewide basis, as well as at the local community level. 

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The California Air Resources Board today approved a landmark ban on use of the substance by the chrome plating industry. The ban requires companies, who opposed the action, to use alternative materials.

The new rule will make California the first state to ban the substance more commonly known as chromium 6. Decorative plating businesses will have until 2027 to discontinue their use. Larger chrome plating plants, which use the toxin for industrial durability purposes, will have until 2039.

We specialize in high-quality services for large hydraulic rods and industrial rollers. With over 35 years of experience, we have perfected hard chrome plating, rod and roll repair, and total rewelds. Our skilled technicians excel in remanufacturing components damaged by rust pitting, scarring, corrosion, or stroke wear. We strive to run a lean operation in our 34,000 sq ft facility in order to optimize turnaround time. Experience the difference with our industry-leading solutions, tailored to meet your specific requirements.

Since 1940, we have continued to build our reputation on quality hard chrome plating and with regional production plants throughout the United States. We expanded our surface coating capabilities exponentially by investing in a state-of-the-art research and development laboratory where we have developed everything from special-purpose finishes to environmentally friendly replacements for chromium. 



"Committed to Excellence" is not just a catch-phrase at Librandi's. Capital investments in the laboratory and the state-of-the-art waste water treatment system have already yielded benefits in the areas of cost savings and quality improvements. Statistical Process Control, daily and weekly analysis of the tanks and continuous processing of the rinse waters places Librandi's far above its competitors in the decorative chrome arena.

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There used to be a product called Strip-A-Kit (paint and chrome remover for plastic models) that would remove chrome instantly without hurting the plastic underneath.. I've used it before and it works amazingly well..

Q. Hi, I own a metal finishing company in FL. I'm looking in to getting into chrome plating onto aluminum. A lot of people are telling me that it is a big thing. I've done chrome plating on steel and brass only. Will appreciate any suggestion.

A. Hi Tony. Aluminum immediately forms a passive film onto which it is not possible to electroplate. Therefore the first step is to apply a zincate coating.


Once the zincate finish is in place you either start with cyanide copper before acid copper-nickel-chrome plating or start with alkaline electroless nickel plating before copper-nickel-chrome instead. The process vendors will be able to give you reprints of shop write-ups from the trade journals. Good luck,

A. Years ago I was involved in plating aluminum pistons. We double zincated the parts and used Enthone's alkaline EN at a much lower temp than recommended. It has a very strong ammonia [adv: item on eBay & Amazon] smell. If you try it, buy a gal of stabilizer because it will plate out in a week or so at Miami ambient temp. They can tell you how to use it and it sure is not in the ops sheet. You might even want to put a layer of regular nickel on it because you will have to re-rack, clean and activate unless you are using tank anodes in your chrome. If you find a way to get all of the chrome off of the racks, please tell me because it always seemed to find a spot that contaminated another tank. It takes some getting used to, but plating on aluminum is not all that bad and the EN strike made it a lot better.

A. I found 2 ways would work on aluminum, one was after double zincate to use EN strike for parts with deep recesses (such as rims). The other was a cyanide copper strike. Both of these were followed by plating the parts in acid copper, then nickel-chrome.

Q. Dear All,Can anyone advise me regarding the hydrogen embrittlement of chrome plated aluminium? I'd like to know how it works and how it can be avoided or solved. Any help you can give will be much appreciated.

A. Hi Mike. A photo would probably help because I'm not sure what this 'dust cover' is about, but I would certainly cancel if the shop guesses at 50% success. Plus, the term 'hard chrome' doesn't fit with this application -- meaning that a misunderstanding is involved as well.


It is difficult and tricky to plate onto mixed metal construction like aluminum and brass because the pretreatment process is usually much different, requiring masking and de-masking mid-process. New tuners more to your liking would probably be less expensive.Regards,

A. Hi. Thanks for the pic. The black chrome plating would probably completely obscure the monogrammed pattern on those dust covers. How about asking the plating shop to mask them before plating, leaving the look of the dust covers exactly as is? They can later get a charcoal tinted clear coat if you wish, which would darken them without hiding the monograms. Although it is possible to clearcoat first, and use the clearcoat as the maskant, I wouldn't chance it on these items. I think it's worth a call to Spector to see if they have replacement tuners, possibly even in black chrome.Regards,

Swanson Industries implements Industrial Chrome Plating as part of its OEM and Re-Manufacturing process. The hard chrome plating process enhances the mechanical and physical properties of cylinder components such as:

Smith Plating provides decorative chrome plating for a wide variety of products including antiques, automotive and motorcycle parts, dental, surgical, hospital, fire protection, food processing, and retail display equipment.

It would involve chemistry and electricity if you're using the electroplating method. The plastic surface would have to be treated with copper or nickel first before it can be electroplated. I think there are hobby DYI plastic chrome plating kit.

Are the chromed bricks going to be used afterwards in any particular fashion? With Lego being very precise in measurements, one concern would be how much a layer of chrome would add, effecting how other bricks would work those chromed ones.

True "chrome plating" for plastic is done by vaccuum metalizing. There is really no DIY method for vaccuum metalizing. Most of the DIY plating kits are not ideal. To plate plastic it first has to be plated with copper so the chrome will "stick" to it. The chemicals involved, even in a DIY kit, are very caustic. I have had a DIY plating kit for several years, and even I don't get it right all the time. I just wouldn't recommend it. There are several "chrome plating" houses out there for the plastic model car world. One of the best and well known is Chrometech USA. They are very inexpensive and the work they produce is fantastic. If you are truly serious about plating some bricks, I would get in contact with them.

I got back to Lego after Lego stopped making real(?) chromed parts. I can understand why, after getting 2 used "chrome silver" parts, one being all shiny & cool, the other having lost half of its coating.

The problem for Lego was and isChrome parts require different tooling than regular parts. The design specs and tolerances are so tight that they have to account for the extra thickness from the layer of chrome when they mold the plastic. This makes chrome parts extremely expensive for limited utility and a rather short term playability. 2351a5e196

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