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I have been trying to photograph hummingbirds. R5, EF100-400mm L 5.6 w/adapter ring. Usual settings around 5.6, ISO 400, 1/2000; remote RF trigger. Each time I adjust the settings, I resave it to "C1" custom settings (having learned that if the camera goes to sleep you lose any adjustments you made.)

My guess is that in fact, you are not actually focusing the lens anymore, such as with earlier EF lenses or the older film-era FD lenses, but are just changing the focus setting of the camera electronics. That would explain why it loses the focus every time it wakes up, and also suggests that these settings can't be saved (which seems ridiculous.) If it were really a mechanical setting, it would not be able to change the setting by itself...

"My guess is that in fact, you are not actually focusing the lens anymore, such as with earlier EF lenses or the older film-era FD lenses, but are just changing the focus setting of the camera electronics."

I meant to write EF-camera lenses or the older film-era FD-camera lenses, meaning when mounted on those EF cameras or FD cameras. In my attempt to be brieft, I left out some additional information such as:

1) This is a phenomenon with the R5 (at least, assume for the other "R" cameras, as I only have this one) as this is certainly not a problem with my 5D-MKIII or any other DSLR I've owned. You manually focus. You shut the camera off. You turn it back on. Vola! It is still focused on exactly where you last focused it.

Your comment, "the camera doesn't save any focus information" is a statement suggesting that it is, indeed, an electronic focus on the R5 camera, not a mechanical one, as with the same lens on a 5D MKIII, and as such, somehow disengages ithe manual focus ring using it instead to drive digital information to the camera. How else would it not be focused then when you turn it back on? The fact that it is "all electric" yet you can't then save the focus info - hugely important - seems ridiculous then. And Canon says nothing about this anywhere.

"I have been trying to photograph hummingbirds. R5, EF100-400mm L 5.6 w/adapter ring. Usual settings around 5.6, ISO 400, 1/2000; remote RF trigger. Each time I adjust the settings, I resave it to "C1" custom settings (having learned that if the camera goes to sleep you lose any adjustments you made.)"

Well, I'm not really sure to be honest. All I know is that I went back to factory settings on my 30d, and then the pilot light began to come on in all of my manual settings - which it wasn't doing before of course. The flash isn't firing at all - as I said, the pilot isn't even coming on.

So, I played around, and tried to remember what settings I had my camera on, and when I went to continous shoot, the speedlight showed no pilot again at all. I went off continous shoot, and then the pilot came back on again. This happened in all the manual modes I spoke of previously. So, I don't know why but for some reason I am getting no pilot in manual settings when my camera is in continous shoot. It is working when I take it off continous.

I recently bought a refurbished T5. I've been learning how to use manual mode, and I understand it pretty well now (at least I think so). However, I've been encountering a problem. I will begin shooting in manual mode (both the lens and the body) and everything will be blurry - the image through the viewfinder as I'm taking the picture, and the resulting image. I will then go to autofocus mode, and the image will have very similar settings and come out crystal clear. I will then go back to manual mode with the same settings I had last time I was on manual mode, and the image is now perfectly clear- both through the viewfinder and the resulting image. If I have the correct settings, why won't the image be clear the first time around? Am I doing something wrong or is there something wrong with the camera itself? Thank you in advance for any help!!

You seem to get the manual exposure mode mixed up with the manual focus mode. They're two separate things. On the lens, when you switch to M, you're using manual focus. You must twist the focus ring on the lens to focus. On the camera dial mode, you're changing aperture, shutter speed and ISO manually to chane exposure (picture brightness).

i recommend you leave the lens on A. There's no reason to use manual focus unless you have areal need for it or you understand what you need to do. Similarly,, there is no real reason to use manual exposure for the sake of using manual. You use it when you need to which means you must first understand what it can do for you. I recommend your using Av or Tv mode first before trying M mode.

The T5 has a mode where it offers screen tips, called the "feature guide', on how to use the camera. These are enabled in one of the menus, on the Set-up 2 [yellow] menu screen. Enable this feature, use the camera in "P", mode, and the camera will practically teach you how to use it.

TIP: Change the auto focus, AF, point when in "P" to use just the center AF point. You change, or select, which AF point the camera uses in "Creative" modes, but not for any of the "Basic" modes, where the camera automates almost everything.

Start typing "Rebel T5" in the model number box, and then make sure to select "T5" from the list that appears, not a "T5i" model. The screen should change, and then click the ""Guides and Manuals" tab when it appears. Download the manual that is over 34MB in size, because that is the full manual. The rest are quick start guides , feature summaries, and other stuff that is good introductory stuff to read, but omit the really fine details.

As others have said, you likely have the MF clutch ring set to the MF position (i.e. the focus ring can be slid forward for auto focus or backward towards the camera for manual focus). If you don't plan to ever use the MF clutch ring, you can disable it via a menu item (page 112 of the E-m1 mark II manual).

For the others reading this, Olympus has also provided updated firmware to the E-m1 mark I, E-m5 mark II, and Pen-F cameras to provide an option to disable the MF clutch ring on the Olympus lenses that have a MF clutch ring.

The LowePro PhotoSport Outdoor is a camera pack for photographers who also need a well-designed daypack for hiking and other outdoor use. If that sounds like you, the PhotoSport Outdoor may be a great choice, but as with any hybrid product, there are a few tradeoffs.

If you want a compact camera that produces great quality photos without the hassle of changing lenses, there are plenty of choices available for every budget. Read on to find out which portable enthusiast compacts are our favorites.

What's the best camera for travel? Good travel cameras should be small, versatile, and offer good image quality. In this buying guide we've rounded-up several great cameras for travel and recommended the best.

Above $2500 cameras tend to become increasingly specialized, making it difficult to select a 'best' option. We case our eye over the options costing more than $2500 but less than $4000, to find the best all-rounder.

CamerasA component which creates an image of a particular viewpoint in your scene. The output is either drawn to the screen or captured as a texture. More info

See in Glossary are the devices that capture and display the world to the player. By customizing and manipulating cameras, you can make the presentation of your game truly unique. You can have an unlimited number of cameras in a sceneA Scene contains the environments and menus of your game. Think of each unique Scene file as a unique level. In each Scene, you place your environments, obstacles, and decorations, essentially designing and building your game in pieces. More info

See in Glossary. They can be set to render in any order, at any place on the screen, or only certain parts of the screen.

Note that the near and far clip planes together with the planes defined by the field of view of the camera describe what is popularly known as the camera frustum. Unity ensures that when rendering your objects those which are completely outside of this frustum are not displayed. This is called Frustum Culling. Frustum Culling happens irrespective of whether you use Occlusion Culling in your game.

Normalized Viewport Rectangle is specifically for defining a certain portion of the screen that the current camera view will be drawn upon. You can put a map view in the lower-right hand corner of the screen, or a missile-tip view in the upper-left corner. With a bit of design work, you can use Viewport Rectangle to create some unique behaviors. ff782bc1db