The good life in a hilltop village
The good life in a hilltop village
Chapter 1: The day the music died
We are in a small mountain village in Southern Spain. The year is 1959 and the Month is February. The date: February 3rd. Preparations for the annual Carnival or Carnaval is in full swing. As is tradition in these parts, people group together creating costumes in the same unique design and compose satirical songs to be performed all over the village to large enthusiastic crowds. This year as in previous years while Spain is under the law of El Caudillo everyone has to be careful with their Carnaval activities as the regime is definitively not in favour of satirical performances.
It is believed that this custom goes back centuries, costumes were essential in breaking down social barriers, helping classes to come together, providing freedom from repression. People could let loose, follow their instincts, and dress up as dukes or chimney sweeps, or fantastical creatures. They also had a unique opportunity to make fun of authority without facing charges, against the church, the government, or the ruling classes. This tradition of criticizing and poking fun at famous personalities, such as politicians, singers and actors, remains central to the Carnaval, and even continues throughout the current Franco era when Carnaval is banned, but cities like Cádiz refuses to comply and rebels at the restriction, launching ever more elaborate Carnaval processions. This village follows bravely where Cádiz leads.
The group of friends we are following for this Carnaval have gathered in the house of Luis Payaya which is just off the main upper square, but down one of the many steep side streets which characterise this particular mountain top village. Well, to be correct it was the house of Luis's parents. The youngsters are still in their last year at school but have formed a lasting friendship over the past few years.
They are all keenly aware that in the rest of Europe and in America the world is moving on with singing artists making waves with Rock and Roll and protest songs. All of which is forbidden in Spain. Franco though cannot stop them listening to pirate radio stations like Radio Luxemburg or Danish Radio Mercur which had started transmitting the year before. Building your own Crystal radio set is not difficult and many are secretly in use throughout the village. Smuggled or contraband records are available from relatives or friends living elsewhere in Europe or America.
Rehearsal is well on the way and the group of friends, six in all, give it their all singing their home composed Carnaval song. Their festive costumes are nearly ready and the big day is looming. Their hopes are high for winning first prize.
Southern Spain and especially Andalusia has a wealth of musical talents ranging from singing and dancing flamenco to playing musical instruments, either in marching bands or in would be rock or pop groups. Rock Andaluz will take another decade to emerge.
Luis is considered the practical joker in the group; Alejandro is the rebel with long hair in a ponytail and a lover of all kind of food. Ángel is practical and can turn his hand to creating all kind of things, be it in wood, metal or cloth. Gabriel, known as Gabi among his friends is a keen and accomplished singer of traditional Flamenco music. He is often accompanied by Filipe who plays a mean acoustic guitar. The last member of the group is Daniel, a self-confessed homosexual to his friends, but still hiding in the closet. Daniel is a very generous person, with many friends in the gay community. His sexual orientation is kept strictly secret by the group of friends as it is still a grave sin and an illegal activity frowned on, both by the Franco regime and the Catholic Church.
Rehearsals completed, Luis turns to his Crystal radio set and tunes in to his favourite Radio Luxemburg.
The group watches as his face changes. Tears wells in his eyes. He hands the headphone to Alejandro who immediately looks equally distressed. The group takes it in turn to listen.
This will be known as 'The Day the Music Died'. Buddy Holly, Ricky Valence and The Big Bopper had all died in an air crash earlier in the day.
These three were the musical heroes of the assembled group of friends and the news hid hard.
Their music had given them all hope in the oppressive and restrictive day to day life in an Andalusian village seemingly cut off from the rest of the world by Fascism and Catholicism.
Leaving Luis's house in a downcast mood, they head for the main square to down a caña in memory of Buddy and Co. The square looks no different from the day before. The fountain in the middle with its four stone lions is still spouting water and a flag is still flying full mast from the balcony of the Ayuntamiento building. The clock in the small tower above is still showing the wrong time.
The group of friends are too miserable for idle chat and agreeing to meet again the following day for rehearsal, they split up.
Luis stays behind to pay the bill.