At the moment the only way i can think of solving this easily is to use either a separate light sensor ( shielded from the Micro:Bit Panel so it does not detect this being turned on ) OR as separate LED output ( which you will need to shield the Micro:Bit from)

Alternatively you could use 2 Micro:Bits ( 1 to detect light level in the room , 1 to output light) . The 1st Micro:Bit can send command via Radio to 2nd to turn on or off. Again you would have to shield the 1st micro:Bit so that the light from the 2nd does not cause it to send a turn off command

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I haven't had this camera long and have been shooting in Auto, but started some tutorials for manaul shooting, and everything made sense until it started talking about metering. It never changes. The triange stays in the middle no matter how I change the shutter speed, F stop and ISO. I see the light changing in the viewfinder but the meter doesn't move. Do I have it locked some way? Hopefullly there's an easy answer, just something I missed.

I was following a tutorial and the guy showed his light meter with the pointer moving between -3 and +3 as he changed the settings. Mine has a pointer or inverted triangle thing at 0 but it doesn't move. Or maybe that's the 0 marking and I don't see a pointer at all. So is a little marker supposed to move around on the light meter as I adjust the settings? I do see the settings change as they are adjusted..

Yes, when you switch from any other mode to (M) manual, the little meter should become a light meter, not an indicator of the exposure compensation. I suggest you call Canon, they can walk you through it.

If you set to M but the ISO is still auto, you won't see the meter changing because the camera changes the ISO to keep it in the middle. Otherwise it should be moving left or right if it underexpose and overexpose. The meter only activate when you press the shutter half way.

Not exactly, when set to M and in auto-ISO, it will stay centered as long as your iso is in a range that will keep the exposure correct. You can verify this by wtching the ISO change on the LCD on top of the camera. As soon as you go out of that range, the needle (see how old I am?) will move showing how far off "correct" exposure you are.

I work on a 2d game where lights and shadows play an important part. Many objects in the game need to be activated only when standing in light (visible by the player). However, lights and shadows change dynamically, and I regularly need to change the state of each object based on its visibility state.

Logically, the light must be some kind of object, or I guess a node or scene in godot terms. So it would follow that you could attach a script to the light itself with a boolean that checks the current brightness. If this boolean is true, it would then trigger a function on the object you want to activate.

Alternatively, assuming that light spreads evenly in all directions, you could check the distance between the object and the player, and use a raycast to check if there is something between them that would block the light. If the object is close enough to the player that it would be illuminated, and nothing is blocking the light, then the object must be illuminated, so it can be activated.

I purchased a Super RE and am trying the "hearing aid battery fix." But I've tried a couple different batteries now so I'm curious if my light-meter is simply broken. I turn the camera to On and nothing changes. The light meter does not move when I adjust anything. If I can verify the light meter does absolutely nothing without a battery, then I'll move on and try purchasing a Wein MRB625 1.35V Zinc-air.

This photo was taken with a Canon 5D MK2. I'm matching shot for shot, exact same settings, with the two cameras. It's a test for the first roll of film going through my Super RE. Hopefully results are worth posting.

I have a Super D (afaik basically ther same camera) with working meter, and I can confirm that without a battery the viewfinder looks exactly as in your drawing. The bar to the lift is simply part of the "T" element which, with a battery in place and meter ON, will show correct exposure (re. Page 16 of the manual). Changing aperture, speed or/and ISO setting without the battery does not result in any modification to the image; the "T" will only became visible when the meter is working.

There is no real reason to go for an expensive Wein cell, which is basically a standard hearing aid battery within an adapter - at least, not before checking whether the meter works. You should be able to use an hearing aid battery with an O ring to keep it in proper place. However, it is also possible that the battery compartment is so designed as to provide contact on the battery`s circonference, in which case you should use a thin metal foil ring in lieu of the O ring. Personally, I use thre adapter sold by Jon Goodman (interslice on ebay) and would recommend it.

@bonsignore_ezio Thank you very much, that is just the reply I was hoping for! Concise and helpful. Also, thank you for the recommendation for Jon Goodman's products. I found his email address online and contacted him directly. I will also try to make a foil ring for the hearing aid batter that I have in there now, which is a Duracell 357 1.5V.

Upon further inspection, the batteries I purchased are 357 "watch/button batteries" (and according to Rick Olseon- are silver cells and even thought they are the same size as the 675, they are not a good substitute for mercury)... so it is correct that they are not hearing aid batteries. I impulse purchased them thinking they would work- alas, I probably just need to hunt down a 675 now. I will test both a shim that allows side contact, and one without. It's probably impossible to find out *officially* if my Topcon has a bridge circuit.

Eventually once I know that the light meter is working, I'll test the accuracy (even at 1.5V) and hopefully post results. At this point I think only firsthand experience with my Topcon will prove what works and what doesn't! If I run a 1.5V that slightly alters exposure calculations then I will just shoot accordingly.

PS: Why can't there just be a magical page on the internet that lists every battery powered camera ever made, then lists it's battery types including modern substitutions and if they need side contact, and whether or not that camera has a bridge circuit and whether or not it calculates exposures wrong with a different voltage...

Here is a comprehensive list of camera batteries Camera Batteries - a complete chart - Photoethnography.com's Classic Camera DB along with their chemistry. There are more links at the bottom of the page.

A bridge circuit neither raises or lowers the voltage. It measures by comparing the ratios of 2 resistances against the ratio of another 2 one of which is derived from the CDS resistance. The ratios do not change so it is a voltage independent circuit. It will work above 1.6v and below 1.3v.

Zinc Air cells work well as a replacement for mercury cells. Their output voltage is between 1.35v and 1.4v. The Wein cell will last longer than a hearing aid cell. The Wein cell has 1 air hole and hearing aid batteries have 4

The meter pointer does move when you rotate the shutter speed dial (or the lens aperture) without battery or turned off. But it should also always be hidden behind the black plastic band when the meter is off. If it doesn't move, something is awry with the network of chains that move when you adjust shutter speed or aperture. If you change shutter speed quickly, there will be a bit of relative movement between the pointer and the black band.

It's very easy to smash up the meter movement when disassembling the camera. The chains connected to the shutter speed dial and aperture feeler turn the body of the meter, working against a strong spring. If you don't put the right "holding screw" through the shutter speed dial when taking it apart, the chain will go free, and the spring will rotate the meter body too far and bend the pointer, or get it stuck in one of the stops. 152ee80cbc

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