Last Trip on L17 Lola

Sailing the Markermeer and IJsselmeer

When I left on this holiday, I fully expected it to be a practice run for my big plans for 2027 (to go to the Waddenzee). I wanted to learn to be comfortable on open water, so I planned to crisscross our biggest lakes, Markermeer and IJsselmeer. To go where the wind blows, but not have the shore within arms’ reach.

Lelystad to sail to Volendam. June 23

I left Lelystad to sail to Volendam. Blue sky, sunshine and my first obstacle: The lock. I’ve had some trouble with it a couple of times before, so I was shaking in my boots. But I got through it without any problem. Had a nice conversation with a fisherman while we waited for the water to go down.

Volendam to Hoom June 24

On Wednesday the wind was nearly non-existent and then completely disappeared, so after half an hour I started the engine again. I found the amount of water plants a bit worrying for my outboard, so I soon moved to deeper water. 

An hour later the first ripples reappeared on the water, so I shut down the loud engine and got the sails back up again. I floated slowly from buoy to buoy, until the wind picked up a bit.

Around noon I realized that with no waves I could let go of the tiller, sit back and relax. I took frequent breaks to take off my life vest and ‘shower’ with a bucket filled straight with water from the lake as it was sunny and HOT.

I got to Hoorn later that afternoon where I found a nice spot next to the park, right behind the boat of the harbor master.

His office was right on top of the old wall that used to protect the city in the past and he promised to help me fix my port side flag line.

I had wanted to replace it, but had pulled the wrong side of the line and ended up with both ends in my hands. Oops. 

The next morning, I tied Lola off next to his office, and while I waited for him to come out I heard a weird splash-splash-splash behind my boat. 

At first I thought: that’s a weird duck. But it wasn’t a duck, it was a pigeon coming towards my stern.   I scooped it out of the water and put it up in a little hole in the wall where it could dry out without cats being able to reach him. I didn’t think he’d be too happy on my little boat.

On To Marker Wadden June 25

The flag line was easily fixed, and I made my way to the Marker Wadden, a couple of artificial islands made in the middle of the lake. 

Still sunny and blue skies, but 15 knots of wind today. Lola danced across the waves and I realized how much I learned. 

Only two years ago I was on this lake with 15 knots and I reefed twice and didn’t even put the jib on. 

Ok, there were gusts and it was grey and much colder, but still I have developed a lot more confidence since then.

Also, my perspective has changed a lot. Before I left home, I was afraid to be on open water without a good engine. 

When I saw a little sloop fight against the waves I realized I didn’t want to be there without sails. It seems more scary to only have one engine to rely on.

I made good speed and arrived around midday. It was way too hot to really explore the islands, but I found the beach to do some swimming and spent the rest of the day reading in the shadow of my boom tent. 

I also checked the wind for the next day, as I wanted to meet up with a friend who has her own boat.  Eventually we decided to sail to Medemblik and meet up in the afternoon.

Marker Wadden to Medemblik thwarted by the locks siezed with the heat!

June 26

It was quite a distance for my tiny boat, so I left really early in the morning. 

The first hour was fantastic, but after that the wind soon gave up. Again into a lock, but this time without the big transport ships, so I went through like a champ. 

Not long after I was on the other side I heard on the VHF radio the locks had seized due to the summer heat.  No way for my friend to get through, so I went to Medemblik on my own. 

I felt much safer between all those big masts. Being little has its perks.

 I left by train for a few days because of some obligations at home and got back to sailing on Monday. 

Medemblik to Stavoren June 29

The wind kept coming from N-NW, and I didn’t want to have to go against it, so I changed my plans to go to Friesland instead. 

It was a 6-hour straight line from Medemblik to Stavoren.  An uneventful sail were it not that I lost my bucket on the way. 

The handle broke and it slipped from the rope. After turning for a BOB-maneouvre I found out that particular bucket didn’t float. Fortunately the Stavoren harbour had a little shop where I got a new one. 

Stavoren to Heeg June 30

Tuesday 30th of June was a lot of switching between engine and sails due to locks, bridges and the likes until I finally ended up in Heeg. 

While deciding where to go next I found out there was a tiny campsite, where I had been before, that had a tiny dock. As I needed to wait out the predicted Thursday storm I took the short trip the next day. 

Everything was alright until I got to the first low bridge at 11.15: double red lights. Oh, ok… checking the big sign and found out it was only opened between certain hours of the day. 

And as the next opening would be at 11.30, so no big deal. But so much for preparation 😉. A man walking by asked me if I was sure I wanted to go through, as behind it there was only a dead end.  No worries sir, I know where I’m going.

Exactly at 11.30 the bridge opened and a train of boats from the other side came through. I got through quickly and crossed the lake to find a spot at the dock.

Thursday was a really stormy day. I walked around a bit and climbed a wooden tower to see the view, but got down really quickly due to the high winds. The rest of the day I enjoyed my tiny electric heater and a good book. 

Heeg to Sloten July 3

My return trip to the low bridge on Friday took a bit more time than expected. 

Winds were still pretty high, so I decided to only hoist the jib. I got there 2 minutes late, so had to wait 1.5 hours for the next opening. 

A bit of motoring and a lunch break later I continued with just the jib. 

Winds were over 20 knots and crossing one of the lakes I made over 5 knots in speed. I was glad to arrive in Sloten to spend the night.

I treated myself to a nice dinner out and a member of the marksmen’s guild came to the restaurant where he announced the shooting of the historical canon that evening.  Yep, I was going there for sure!

It was just a short walk and a bit of a wait, but the whole guild came out in full costume. Probably historically accurate (I’m not that familiar with the history of this particular town) except the big hearing protectors for the kids!

I enjoyed the show until I remembered that this was exactly the kind of thing my Dad would have enjoyed if he hadn’t died last spring.  Mourning can grab you by the throat at the most unexpected times.

Sloten to Lemmer July 4

On Saturday I wanted to leave for Lemmer, as there is a BIG lock that I wanted to go through on Sunday.  

Sunday, as there usually are fewer transport ships.  They really are intimidating to me in my tiny nutshell. 

Friday evening, I looked up what bridges I had to pay for in cash, and what opening times they had (yeah, I had learned from the week before). 

The bridge in Sloten was not on the list, so I left my wallet in my grab bag inside the cabin. Big mistake, but more about that later.

When I got to the bridge it was open for boats coming from the other side, so I tied off on the starboard side. And immediately got my mast stuck in an overhanging tree.  Ok, got off the boat, pulled it backwards and got free. 

By the time I was back on board the bridge had closed, so I stayed put until it opened for the other side again.  I got the engine going, untied the boat and as I got near the bridge I saw the clog on a string, and a banner showing it was €3,- to get through. 

Ok, dive down to get my grab bag, and drop it on the floor. Nooooooooo. 

Ok, back to the starboard side to tie off and get inside the cabin, get out the grabbag and put the coins in my hand. Yup, ready to go. Nope, bridge is closed again!

At this point I decided to just go literally in circles until I’m allowed to get through. The bridge operator couldn’t figure out if I wanted to go through or not…. 

Well Mister, you could have asked every time you stood outside with that little clog…  Whatever, I got through and  hoisted the jib again to get to Lemmer. 

Lemmer to Urk  July 5

I left Lemmer on Sunday very early in the morning and was the only boat out until I got to the Lock. I tied off to wait, used the button to announce myself to the operator and waited for the lights to turn green.

 About 20 minutes later the lock opened and two behemoths came out. They went very slowly, but I could feel the pull on the ropes. Talk about suction.

Fortunately, I was the only one in the lock. And I thought the one in Lelystad was big…. I felt so small in there. I got through without any trouble though and set sail for Urk. 

The wind prediction stated 12-14 knots, and as I was on a beam reach, and later down wind, so I decided to hoist full sails again. 

The wind got stronger though and I wondered if I needed to reef. Yeah, that’s the moment to do it. But as I was sailing parallel to a main shipping lane and a group of wind turbines, I didn’t want to heave to.  Turning against 50 cm waves and standing up didn’t sound like a good idea either. 

Ok, time to put those sailing lessons to good use: moved the traveller car down and loosened the mainsheet a bit and soon felt back in control again.

Urk to Lelystad July 8

The last leg back to Lelystad therefore was with mixed feelings. I had a great time and was really happy with how she held up and how much I had learned, but sadly I also knew this was the last trip I was to take with my little red beauty.

Cindy Scholten, Lola, L17