Kusaki-zome has been used for over a thousand years. The Takamatsuzuka Tomb in Nara, Japan, dating back to the 7th century, provides an early example of this technique. The tomb's walls display paintings of women wearing colorful garments. Japan imported foreign plants to acquire beautiful colors. During the Heian Period (794-1185), clothing held great significance with specific colors and patterns dedicated to each season. This is evident in famous Heian literature such as The Tale of Genji and The Pillow Book. In the late Edo period, citizens gained access to cotton and Ai-Zome, a dark blue dye made from indigo, became popular for clothing. The use of kusaki-zome began to decrease only during the Industrial Revolution. The process of natural dyeing was endangered by the dyeing agents and mechanizations that began during the Meiji Period.
Kusaki-zome, which means “dyed with plants and trees” is the natural dyeing techniques and process using plant, animal, and other natural mineral elements rather than synthetic materials. Seasonal plants found in gardens and mountains are usually used for dyeing; even if the same plants are used throughout the year, the colours of the dye would differ from season to season (Kogei Standard). One would pick flowers, leaves, stems, roots, and more before extracting colours through the process of decocting and finally dyeing silk or cotton threads (The MIDORI Press). Examples of s0me of the common natural resources that are used to create dye from this process include indigo, madder, safflower, gardenia, turmeric, sappanwood, kariyasu (miscanthus tinctorius), and amur cork tree.
An interview explaining the unique history, methods, and art of Kusakizome natural dying in Akita Hachijo in Akita (Japanese only)
This Youtube video follows a Kusaki Zome Handicraft maker with Akita’s Nukumori workshop as she explains her experience and the art of Kusaki Zome (Japanese only)
Kazuno Purple Root Dyeing and Akane Dying
Located in North-Eastern Akita, the Kazuno Purple Navy Dyeing Research Group has a centre of activities and information about this form of Kusaki Zome. This form of planting dyeing specialises in the colour purple in terms for the crafts. Kuzuno purple is one of the three major purples in Japan.
This process takes a lot of time and patience; after the fabric is dyed, it is left to rest for one year.
There are activities for people of all ages to explore and experience the art of plant dyeing ranging from school visitations to recruitment to become part of the research group.
Kobo Nukumori
8-1-88 Higashidori, Akita City
Phone Number: 018-831-5373
Walk for 16 minutes from Akita station
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Akita Prefecture Product Plaza (秋田県産品プラザ)
Design Shop and Handicraft Museum (秋田贔屓)
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Photos by Tohoku Digital Archive