I lock the box pressing the switch and unlock it knocking 3 times. But when I try lo lock it again pressing the switch, it gets unlocked without waiting for the the knocks. In the communication window, I can see:

Hello everyone, I just realized this project, but the first time it works correctly, but after knocking on it with pressing the button piezo continues unlock. I tried to add a delay () but I get the same problem.

Someone was able to find the solution?


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Ok, so basically I'm a complete noob at Arduino, however what i want to do is to make a knock lock, but make it so that those knocks do not stay indefinitely, but would reset if no knock is done for, say 10 seconds. For example, someone knocks twice, then goes away and comes back later, knocks once, and it counts as one lock, and not 3.

Been trying to do that without creating a topic, but failed miserably So far my code is the basic knock lock from arduino projects book with one added line of locks resetting after the lock unlocks.

You need to look into using millis() for timing as in the BlinkWithoutDelay example and Several things at the same time

Save the time the first knock happens then each time through loop() check whether the required period has elapsed since the knock. If not then go round loop() again reading inputs etc. If the period has elapsed then take the required action to reset the system ready for another series of knocks.

Periodically (read that as "on every pass through loop()"), use millis() to determine now. If now minus then (when the last knock happened) exceeds some value and the knock count is not 0, reset the number of knocks to 0, and reset the last knock time to 0.

This started out as a bit of a joke project, but turned out to be surprisingly accurate at judging knocks. If the precision is turned all the way up it can even detect people apart, even if they give the same knock! (Though this does trigger a lot of false negatives, which is no fun if you're in a hurry.)

It's also programmable. Press the programming button and knock a new knock and it will now only open with your new knock. By default the knock is "Shave and a Haircut" but you can program it with anything, up to 20 knocks long. Use your favorite song, Morse code, whatever.

1) This is for entertainment purposes only. Really. This decreases the security of your door by adding another way to unlock it, and it makes your unlock code known to anyone who can hear. If you put this on your door, be sure to carry your key too. The batteries might die, the suction cups might fail or you might forget your knock. Don't complain to me if someone imitates your knock and steals all your stuff, you've been warned.

1 If you have a torque meter or a torque wrench, apply it to your door lock to get an idea of what torque it will take to open your lock. Use a online conversion tool to convert between foot/pounds, N/m, etc.

Tip 1: If the name of the downloaded file is something like "BARS5HS13H8SW.tmp" simply rename it to secret_knock_detector.ino. and you're good to go. If the Arduino IDE says "This file needs to be in a sketch folder" click [ok] and let it do it's thing.

Both of these are used to determine how accurately someone has to knock. They are percentages and should be in the range of 0-100. Lowering these means someone must have more precise timing, higher is more forgiving. averageRejectValue should always be lower than rejectValue. 

Settings of about 10 and 7 make it hard for two people to knock the same knock even if they know the rhythm. But it also increases the number of false negatives. (ie: You knock correctly and it still doesn't open.)

This is a crude debounce timer for the knock sensor. After it hears a knock it stops listening for this many milliseconds so it doesn't count the same knock more than once. If you get a single knock counted as two then increase this timer. If it doesn't register two rapid knocks then decrease it.

This is now many milliseconds we run the motor to unlock the door. How long this should be depends on the design of your motor and your lock. It's okay if it runs a little bit long since I've designed a simple slip clutch into the design, but it's better for all the parts if it doesn't run too much.

Also known as the maximum number of milliseconds it will wait for a knock. If it doesn't hear a knock for this long it will assume it's done and check to see if the knock is any good. Increase this if you're a slow knocker. Decrease it if you're a fast knocker and are impatient to wait 1.2 seconds for your door to unlock.

This is the default knock that it recognizes when you turn it on. This is weird rhythmic notation since every value is a percentage of the longest knock. If you're having a hard time getting it to recognize "shave and a hair cut" change this to  {100,100,100,0,0,0... and a simple sequence of 3 knocks will open it.

We're going to breadboard the electronics to make sure everything works. If you never make mistakes you can skip this step.


I've provided both a schematic and a layout diagram for the breadboard. Follow whichever one you're the most comfortable with. 


We're going to go slowly and check as we go.


#1: Wire the Piezo Sensor

Solder a pair of 12" (30cm) leads to the Piezo speaker. Connect it between Analog pin 0 and the ground. Also attach the 1M ohm resistor between Analog pin 0 and the ground.


Test: With your Arduino plugged into your computer (via USB or Serial cable) and open the Serial Montor window. (That's the button furthest to the right at the top of the Arduino development environment.) With the Arduino powered on you should see the text "Program start." Tap the piezo speaker and you should see the text "knock starting" and "knock" each time you tap it. Stop for a second or two and you'll probably see "Secret knock failed" or "Door unlocked!"


If you don't see anything or see junk, make sure your serial port is set to 9600 baud and reset the power on the Arduino. If you're sure it's right, then try tapping Shave and a Haircut (Don't forget the two bits. See the video if you don't know it.) and see if you can get the "Door unlocked!" message.


If you get knock messages without tapping it may be too sensitive. If so you'll need to edit the sketch. Around line 27 raise the value of threshold. This can be raised as high as 1032 if you have a very sensitive detector.


const int threshold = 3; // Minimum signal from the piezo to register as a knock


Once you have it working the way you want it you can comment out (or delete) the lines that start with Serial... We shouldn't need them any more.


#2: Wire up the LEDs

Lets wire up some LEDs so we don't have to use a serial cable to see what's going on.


Connect the red LED to digital pin 4 and green LED to digital pin 5 with their corresponding 560* ohm resistors in line.


Test: If you power the circuit the green LED should light. If not, check your connections and make sure the LED is the right way around. Every time you tap the green led should dim. After tapping the correct sequence the green led should blink a few times. Tapping the wrong sequence should blink the red one. 


If none of this happens, check the polarity on your LEDs and all of your connections.


* Your LEDs might require different resistance.


#3: Wire the programming button

Solder 8" leads to the button. Connect one side of the button to +5v. The other pin on the button connect to digital pin 2 and, with a 10K resistor to the Ground.


Test: Apply power. When you press the button the red light should come on. Hold down the button and tap a simple sequence. When tapping while programming both LEDs should blink. When you're done the pattern you just tapped should repeat on both lights. After playback is complete, the new knock code is saved and the lights wil alternate red and green to tell you so.


#4: Wire in the motor

Solder 8" of leads to the motor and follow the design/schematic. Be sure to get the diode going the right way and you might want to check the pins on the transistor to be sure they match the diagram. (Some transistors might have the pins in different order.)


Test: Power the circuit. Tap the default "Shave and a Haircut" knock. The motor should run for about half a second. If not, check your connections as well as the polarity of the diode.


Extra Troubleshooting tips

1) If the motor turns very weakly the diode might be reversed.


2) If you need more power on your motor make the following circuit change: Move the wire that goes from the motor to +5v to the Vin pin on the Arduino. This will supply the motor with 9v (or whatever voltage you're supplying to it.)


Tip: Check which way the motor turns. It should turn the same way as you turn your deadbolt lock to unlock it. If not, switch the motor's leads which should reverse the motor.


Congratulations! You have a working secret knock detector!


Now we have to put it into something more permanent that we can stick on our door.


If you're making your own case you can skip this step. Otherwise grab your PVC and saw and lets get cracking.


Important!

We're just testing for fit here. Don't glue or fasten anything yet!


#1: The Button mount

Take one of the PVC end caps and drill a hole through the center appropriate for your push button. For my button that was 3/8". Secure the button in the hole.


Plug this into one of the 4 radial holes in the 5-way connector. (ie: not the one that points down.)


#2: The Motor mount

Take the other PVC end cap and drill a hole big enough for the shaft of your motor to pass through. You might also need to make it even bigger if your motor has a bearing that sticks out.


Depending on the design of your motor you may want to sand down the thickness of the plug so that you have more of the motor shaft to work with. Test the fit by placing the motor through the back of the plug. If it's too tight you might have to sand/file/grind the inside of the plug so it will fit. 


Use a paper template to place the holes for the fastening screws, drill the holes and attach the motor to the plug. (In my case using the two 2M screws.) Countersink the screws if possible.


Plug this into the "down" facing hole on the 5-way connector.


#3: The 'arms'

Cut one piece of PVC pipe 5 inches long. We're going to call this the "long arm". Put a right angle connector on one end. Plug the other end into the 5-way connector opposite the button.


Cut two pieces of PVC pipe two inches long. We'll call these the "short arms". Half way along their length drill a 1/4" hole through one side. Put right angle connectors on one end of each arm. Plug these into the two remaining holes on the 5-way connector. You should really start to see it take shape.


#3b: A Few Extra Holes

with a pencil or marker draw a line down the center of the top and the bottom of the long arm. On the top side, make marks for two holes, one 3/4" from the 5-way, and another 1 1/2" from the 5-way. Drill a 3/16 (5mm) hole at each of these places. This is where our LEDs are going.


Also make a line along the bottom where the long arm connects to the 5-way. Using a saw, cut a short way through the pipe, from the bottom up, until there is about a 1/2" hole into the pipe. (this is where the spring for our detector will attach. Also on the bottom, drill a 1/8" hole 1/4" further along the pipe (Away from the 5-way). We will thread the sensor's wires through here.


#4: The 'legs'

These are the parts that attach to the door. You may not want to cut these yet, The length depends on the design of your door lock, the length of the shaft on your motor and the final design of the Lock Turning Clamp in the next step. All three of mine were 2 5/16" long, but you're better off cutting them long and trimming them down to size later


If they're too long the motor won't reach the lock to turn it. If they're too short the suction cups won't reach the door.


When you do cut these, hot glue the suction cups in one end and stick the other ends in the right angle connectors on the ends of our legs.


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