As a traveling stump grinder for the past few decades, I have experienced various stump removal scenarios. I'm not writing this to impress, nor am I writing this as a "be all to end all method of stump grinding". I felt the need for a written description of what I was doing among the many visual and pictorial information. Hopefully this humble piece will inspire other stump grinders to put some effort into their written description of how they grind stumps with their machines. When compiled and indexed, this summary information will become a valuable written reference source for all future stump grinders. I'm blessed to have my own unique mix of experiences (not necessarily related to this topic) along with the ability to write them---though how they translate remains to be seen. This is a detailed description of how I removed a stump using a professional stump grinder. There are deviations from this main theme that also describe my reasons, methods and events that lead to the current action. Unlike many of my fellow stump grinders who rely on YouTube videos to demonstrate stump grinding, no one --- to my knowledge --- has written a definitive method description at the core of this operation, for setting up an open domain. . It is understood that there are many other views with many other differences in method reflected in differences in device types. My intention of basing my procedural description with a modified Carlton 2300 stump grinder, is to keep it simple, without all the "bells and whistles" of modern stump grinding machines. However, this old (1997) model has been updated with a Lombardini diesel engine to give it performance approaching modern machines. I have added a number of my own "bells and whistles" in the form of various gauges which I feel are important to gain a general understanding of machine performance. Further, old fashioned finger type cutter teeth are used. This is a personal preference based on cost alone. I am also aware of the OEM improvements to modern stump grinders and do not intend these articles to diminish those improvements in any conceivable way. Again, I emphasize that the use of the old model Carlton 2300 is for simplicity despite the engine modifications below. It is my wish and hope that some of these will stimulate further ideas and improvements to increase safety and productivity in hazardous traffic. Stump grinding is a dangerous operation for people, pets and property. The scope of this procedure description assumes familiarity with all necessary safety equipment and only occasionally refers to such equipment in the context of my operating practices and procedures. I'll start by listing the changes made to this old Carlton 2300 including the reasons why: holder for securing 2.5 mtr. horizontal light mast above the engine and its length. When working at any distance from the base, it is not cost effective to complete the work on a second return to the site if it can be completed in one trip. The winter sonnets start around 4pm here in England. A few extra hours in the dark can add up to significant cost savings. This led to the installation of a floodlight. to the machine. swivel brackets installed in place of fenders to secure rubber screens suspended on steel arms. Some manufacturers of blunt grinders can already supply these screens. stump removal There wasn't one available at the time, so I made one. After experiencing a broken window, as a result of stones being projected diagonally from the cutter wheel, such a screening provision became very immediate. I never operate without my mud guard mounted screens. pivoted bracket assembly for securing a vertical mast of a three meter parasol used for all lengthy stump grinding jobs---rain or shine. A comfortable stump grinder, is a productive stump grinder. bracket for securing a proper oil pressure gauge---not an idiot light! Most modern stump grinders have automatic switches to shut down the engine when oil pressure is lost. If this engine had one - I would still install an oil pressure gauge. The idiot light will not detect a drop in oil pressure when the engine warms up from cold or when there may be a potential leak. In addition, it can indicate the approximate temperature of the engine once a comparison of normal pressure and temperature is obtained. holder for fixing the engine oil thermometer. This is a temporary installation because to get accurate readings it is necessary to replace the oil dipstick with a sensor bulb immersed in oil in the sump. With a clean cold air intake my engine runs at 90 C. That is pretty hot and shows how important it is to keep the cold air passages clean and clear. I have almost 4000 hours on my diesel with no black or white exhaust smoke! bracket that secures the hydraulic oil thermometer. It is also a current temporary installation where data is collected and can be more accurately compared to a pressure gauge. A permanent installation with a combination oil level and temperature indicator will be installed later. A sheet metal screen separating the operator from hydraulic hoses was installed just behind the hydraulics control levers. Most modern models have enclosures for hydraulic hosing, and must meet CE certification. welded angle, supports for cutter wheel's hinged (guard) shroud. When this guard is down in its operational position, it nestles between two welded angles giving it lateral support. The addition of these angled supports was found to be necessary when the guard makes contact with a portion of uncut stump which remained beyond the swing limit of the cutter wheel. brackets to secure a permanent electric winch above the steering wheel. A twelve-volt winch is considered basic on-board equipment. Occasions require a winch to help you maneuver the machine, fix a static position on a slope where it is impossible to drive the machine's own pin into the ground. and get the machine off the hard ground. installation of a lockable emergency switch operated by a key. CE compliance requires this switch. installation in a certain way to secure the folding guard of the cutting wheel in the lower or operating position. This is necessary for CE compliance. central lubrication point hub located inside the cutout in the engine cover. Armored, sheathed, flexible, hydraulic tube, connected to four lower (hard to reach) lubricators a fine insect screen installed above the engine cooling fan opening, supplemented by a steel mesh support fixed inside the air intake cover. This eliminates the need to constantly divert cooling air from the engine to the finned cylinders to clean debris trapped between the cylinder cooling fins. This is a common and important task to avoid "hot spots" and to maintain effective engine cooling on a hot air cooled engine. A water-cooled engine has significant advantages when operating in such a polluted environment. A strong neoprene seal located under the chain drive cover. This seal is a great improvement in preventing contamination and extending chain life. ( Modern stump grinders have hydraulic motor hub drives for each wheel. Chain breakage was always a risk, with the possibility of a runaway machine. That can't happen with hydraulic motors at the drive wheels.) complete sheet metal encasement of 'V' belt drive. Required for CE compliance. Improved fixing/support bracket for shallow screen located directly behind cutter wheel. This bracket was made in one piece of steel stretching the length of the rubber screen. It provides additional screen support, and is quicker /easier to remove for screen replacement due to wear. heavy duty spiral banding was wrapped around all exposed hydraulic hoses. A CE requirement to protect the operator from a hydraulic hose burst Installation of thermocouples to the bearings for determining their average normal running temperature and to indicate excessive bearing play yet to be installed. Transporting A Stump Grinder: There are two ways of getting your stumpgriner down the road to a site; either by loading it onto a trailer, onto a truck, or into a van. I chose a VW medium wheelbase, high top, turbo diesel, panel van for the following reasons and the description of how the blunt grinder is hidden: To me, VW vans represent reliability. I am on my third exchange (all bought second hand) and still have a fault that was not my fault. the trailer option seems cumbersome, with access to narrow driveways, too tight turning radii and a lot of unnecessary maneuvering. I don't have a large enough lockable garage to require outdoor storage of a blunt sander and a trailer for it to be stolen. my van is designed to store the blunt sander where it stays on board. I do all service and repairs with a stump grinder on board. I carry all necessary tooling to perform minor field repairs e.g. changing a drive chain to the drive axle, or wedge belts for the cutter drive. the stump grinder and tools are secure in the van with the vans additional security, eg. immobiliser, alarm, wheel clamp, and additional door and frame strengthening which has already prevented someone trying to lever the base of the rear doors upwards in an attempt to gain access. I keep a set of steel ramps stowed onboard. These are also useful for gaining access in gardens with steps, or at a higher level. a steel cable is placed between the opposite anchor points next to the steel bulkheads, separating the driver from the cargo area.