Kadano S2d 10x snapback capacitance modules: prices and instructions
What are these modules for?
My S2d anti-snapback capacitance modules eliminate snapback. With their 10 switches – 6 for the horizontal axis and 4 for the vertical axis – the capacitances can be set very accurately to be just high enough to prevent snapback for the given potentiometer condition.
For more information on what snapback is and how potentiometers degrade, please refer to my guide here.
No-reset functionality
S2d modules have no-reset functionality, which means that you don't need to hold X+Y+Start for three seconds after plugging the controller to a console, as with regular capacitor mods.
For this feature, it's necessary to wire the S2d modules not only to the two signals and ground, but also to 3.3V.
If you plan on installing these modules by yourself, make sure you wire them exactly as shown on the picture on the right. There are also printed labels next to the respective pins on the board that tell you what each is for, but the text is a bit small and can be difficult to read.
Ordering process
To buy S2d modules from me, just send me an email (david.schmid1992(-at-)gmail.com) or a Twitter DM (https://twitter.com/KadanoB) with the exact quantity, revision, switch type you want as well as your full shipping address (including full name and phone number). At times, they are also available on my Etsy shop.
I will reply during my working hours, in case I'm currently on vacation at the time or busy with earlier orders, it might take 1-3 weeks until I can reply. After I've sent you the invoice, it typically takes 1 week until the items are with you.
You can order S2d modules either pre-wired, so that you only need to solder them to the GCC PCB, or raw with only the backside components already soldered on.
For pre-wired boards, the unit price is 14-19€ depending on quantity and revision. Pre-wired boards are the better option if you don't have much soldering experience, as the chances of you damaging something are much lower.
Raw boards have all the backside components (10 capacitors and no-reset circuit) soldered on, you only need to solder on the 10x switch (included in the price) and the cables (not included). Unit prices range from 5-10€, again depending on amount and revision.
The minimum order value is 50€ without shipping (you can also order potentiometers or other things I offer to reach 50€, refer to the table at the bottom for exact pricing). For small orders, I sometimes open my Etsy store for short periods of time, this way I can offer much more affordable (but slower) batch shipping. For email orders, shipping is 13-14€ to EU countries using UPS and 20-25€ to countries outside of the EU using FedEx Priority.
Payment can be handled either through credit card (Stripe invoice) or bank transfer (I recommend using Wise) for a 2% discount. PayPal is also available for an extra 4% charge to account for their higher fees.
What do you get for your money?
Below is a photo with some examples of what is frequently ordered and the respective prices. Open in new tab to zoom in if the text is too small.
Required tools to install S2d boards (checklist)
Tripoint screwdriver for opening the controller
Side-cutter (or a sharp knife, if you are very careful) to make room for the wires in the black rumble holder (recommendation: Knipex Super Knips / 78 61 125)
Good quality soldering iron (I recommend Ersa soldering irons, for example Ersa Analog 60 or Ersa RDS 80)
Solder (only if going with raw boards; my pre-wired boards have pre-tinned wires that don't need extra solder)
Hot glue gun with hot glue
If going with raw boards: wire (I use 24AWG silicone wire, but wire choice is not very important here), wire stripper
Installation instructions,
pre-wired (~7 minutes)
pre-wired (~7 minutes)
Open the controller and carefully remove the black rumble bracket: first slide out the rumble motor & trigger click pad wires. Be especially careful with the rumble motor wires during the process as they can break easily from the weight of the motor.
Solder the wires to it as shown. The longest wire is always for Ay (vertical axis signal), red is 3.3V, blue is Ax (horizontal axis signal) and black is ground.
Hold the black rumble bracket back to where it belongs and check where you need to make room for the wires by removing material on the rumble bracket so that it's flush with the PCB again.
Cut out the corresponding part of the bottom wall with a precise side cutter or a sharp knife (be very careful not to hurt yourself if you go with that) until you can get the bracket to fit flush with the PCB. Then, insert the controller PCB into the front shell.
Remove the sticky foam tape cover (included only with pre-wired modules), position the snapback module well and firmly press it against the back side of the controller PCB for 5 seconds.
Put on the back shell and check whether the controller closes properly. If not, you need to position the module slightly differently, or you might have not aligned the button click pads well.
Flip switches so that enough capacitance is active to get rid of snapback, ideally using fine tweezers or the tripoint screwdriver tip. Typically, with new controllers or controllers with new potentiometers, that's 690 nF on the horizontal axis (switches 3+5 in up position) and 470 nF on the vertical axis (switch 9 in up position). For more detailed instructions, refer to my snapback info page.
Installation instructions for preparing raw boards (black switches)
Only needed if you order raw boards instead of pre-wired. Precedes the installation of the module into the GCC.
Solder the leftmost leg of the upper row to the respective solder pad. Make sure that the alignment is perfect – while there is only one leg soldered to its pad, adjusting the alignment is still very easy.
Solder the rightmost leg of the lower row to its solder pad.
Check again whether the alignment is perfect and every leg sits flush on its pad. If not, keep pressing the switch against the PCB firmly, then briefly touch the leftmost and rightmost leg with the soldering iron to make the legs go even more flush with the soldering pads on the PCB.
Solder the remaining pins to their pads.
Installation instructions for preparing raw boards (red switches)
Only needed if you order raw boards instead of pre-wired. Precedes the installation of the module into the GCC.
Bend up all the legs on the upper row by ~70°.
Solder the leftmost and the rightmost leg of the lower row to the respective solder pads.
Solder the 8 legs in-between to the PCB. Check from the bottom side with good lighting whether every leg is connected to the pad properly with solder. If any of them happen to be floating, it will be almost impossible to fix after having soldered on the top row as well.
Bend the red switch upwards carefully, then press it down with force so that the top pins touch the PCB.
Solder the leftmost and the rightmost leg of the top row to the PCB.
Keep pressing the switch against the PCB firmly, then briefly touch the leftmost and rightmost leg with the soldering iron to make the legs go even more flush with the soldering pads on the PCB.
Once all ten legs lie flat on the PCB, solder the remaining 8 pins.
Wiring instructions for preparing raw boards
Only needed if you order raw boards instead of pre-wired. Precedes the installation of the module into the GCC. Do this only after having soldered the 10x switch to the S2d PCB.
Cut wires (ideally different-colored, there are handy 6- or 7-color packages available for just around 20 USD / EUR that make the process very fast) to the correct lengths: 23 mm for GND, 3.3V and Ax (horizontal axis), 37 mm for Ay (vertical axis)
Use a precision cutter or a wire stripper to strip off 1-2 mm of the insulation on both ends of all the wires
Tin both ends of all the wires with solder
Tin the pads of the bottom side of the S2d board with solder, then solder the respective wire to it
Prices and revision differences
Prices depend on quantity and revision. In the table below, you can find the unit prices for a given revision and quantity. Older revisions are sold at a discount while they are available.
Independent of which board revision you go for, you always have the option of black 10x switches or red 10x switches. Black switches are smaller and easier to solder and fit, but less easy to flip.
Red switches are preferable for customer comfort if installed well. Red switches are not SMD but through-hole design, so soldering them to the PCB is not as straightforward. (Instructions can be found in a lower section here.)
Revision differences, oldest to newest:
r1b: first pre-assembled printed version. Large and more difficult to fit in GCC handles (needs to be vertical), but also has larger printed text labels for the different capacitances of the 10 switches for easy setting of the capacitances. 2020-08
r1d: PCB reduced in height for easier fitting (can lie flat on the PCB and fit inside the handle), especially when using red switches. Text is much smaller as a consequence and barely legible. 2021-01
r2: PCB reduced in height even slightly more, yet the text is larger due to redesigning the 10x switch solder pads to be just barely large enough. 2021-03
r2b: Pre-soldered component placement slightly adjusted to allow for larger text in-between. First lead-free revision. Available as r2b (leaded), regular r2b LF and r2b LF-g (gold-plated ENIG production for extra reliability and longevity). 2021-04
r3: Probe test points removed as these were rarely used, allowing for a decreased board length and easier installation. Available as r3 (leaded) and r3 LF-g (gold plated for extra reliability and longevity). 2021-06
r4: Board length further reduced by having the wire solder pads only on the bottom side. By far the easiest revision yet to fit inside a controller. Available as r4 LF-g (gold plated) only.
If unsure, I recommend going for the newest revision available, as that will be the easiest one to install for you. Older revisions are not restocked, so when they are sold out I won't have them again in the future. 2021-07r5: Has the same small board outline as r4, with the probe test points as well as COMx and COMy re-integrated (for easy installation to other controllers such as Switch Pro). Large ground copper area at a convenient position for easy oscilloscope probe ground clamp hookup (mainly for diagnosing PODE, but also other controller functionality without damaging GCC PCB ground solder points).
All traces increased in width for higher mechanical resistance (probably overkill, but doesn't hurt). 2021-10r6: Optimizes small details of r5, mainly shifting the Ax and Ay oscilloscope probe points more inside of the PCB for more stable connection, and making the panelization brackets smaller for much easier breaking them apart by hand.
Probably the final S2d revision. 2022-04
