WILLY CHAVARRIA SS26

Paris Fashion Week has never quite beaten the “out of touch” allegations, but Willy Chavarria’s newest runway collection comes as close as it gets. Titled, Huron, the show itself was designed by a fashion activist, featured open-call models, and theme that kept both feet firmly planted in reality.  

The event kicked off with a powerful and poignant statement of protest against the recent ICE raids in Los Angeles. Though it has certainly been on the minds of many Americans, the unlawful deportations of innocent people have been largely eschewed by the world of high fashion. Chavarria, the son of a Mexican-American father, chose to look the conflict right in the face, commencing his show with a procession of men in white t-shirts and shaved heads; directly referencing the gut wrenching photos that have circulated from El Salvador’s Cecot prison. 

If this statement wasn’t potent enough, Chavarria’s runway (at only his 2nd appearance at Paris Fashion Week) was every bit as biting and sharp as its intro. 

Accompanied by the voice of Mexican singer and composer, Vivir Quintana, models rocked colorful Tacuches, wide-brimmed fedoras, and stark sunglasses. The first fit made for a strong opening look: a vibrant eau de nil Zoot suit, paired with an angled wide-brim hat, and pastel pink tie.

This Spring/Summer show delivered a much needed breath of genuine Summer to a fashion week that has more than occasionally lost the plot (I’m talking about you Louis Vuitton puffer coat). Mexico City and Los Angeles-influenced summer stylings were on full display, in a sultry showing of Chavarria’s true talent: infusing color and hope into a world that so desperately needs it. 

Color acted as a core element of the show and we saw a number of recurring shades crop up. For one, that same pastel pink found its way into a number of Chilango blazers and trenches. Buttery yellows and pops of stark turquoise were another welcome combo. I would also be remiss if I failed to mention more than a handful of lusty red looks that cemented Chavarria’s vision of summer in LA.  

At the midpoint of the show, there was a brief interlude where Chavarria promptly did away with haute-couture stylings in favor of highlighting his recent Adidas collaboration. The Los Angeles influence here was not just palpable, it was the whole thesis. Chavarria collaborated with LA tattoo artist Sal Preciado to create the graphics for an eye catching line of classic streetwear. Familiar colors  emerged in a pair of long crimson shorts, overlapped atop a matching black set. 

The show closed with a selection of glamorous balloon dresses, a testament to Chavarria’s recent growth in designing women’s wear. In particular, the choice to use cloque and duchess satin marked yet another instance of the show’s careful commentary— referencing factory worker uniforms across the globe.  

Throughout the entire show, Chavarria’s intent was bringing LA to the forefront of the European mind. From recent attacks on human rights to the resounding impact that the city has had on the world of fashion, LA is a cultural touchstone now more than ever. If the rumors are true, and Willy Chavarria’s name is being tossed around to take over at Fendi, it wouldn’t be exaggeration to say we would be in safe and decisive hands.