MAISON MARGIELA SS26

Who could possibly follow John Galliano? Who could remotely capture the magic of Martin Margiela himself? These seemed like impossible questions to answer for many in the fashion world. That is, until the latest Maison Margiela Artisanal Showing.

In just 49 looks, Bruges-born designer, Glenn Martens put a clear end to any concerns.

Point blank. Period.

It's no easy feat to take the helm at Margiela, a fashion house that is as storied as it is surreal. Undaunted, Glenn Martens, delivered a stunning debut, rich in tributes, traditions, and wickedly twisted couture. Choosing to decorate Le Centuatre in a subterranean collage of photocopied architecture, and cracked paper-mache flooring, Martens masterfully wielded an austere vibe that will make his residence as creative director of Margiela a match made in fashion heaven.

Evidently, it's been hard for fashion publications to nail down the exact words to describe this collection. Key phrases that have repeated across articles: Gothic, eerie, creepy, unsettling. For a couture fashion show, most reports have unavoidably highlighted the utterly uncanny atmosphere Martens managed to evoke. 

The first of many tributes suffused throughout the show was undoubtedly the ongoing use of masks. Maison Margiela has long operated under the dogma that fashion must speak solely for itself— a sentiment that Index Magazine seconds. Martens honored this tradition aptly, with faceless models rocking masks consisting of everything from beaten-in tin plates, to gemstone-rich costume jewelry. 

However, Marten’s official opening salvo came in the form of clear-plastic. The first three fits showcased transparent trenchcoats and see-through dresses, paired with downright suffocating plastic masks. This same acrylic material would reoccur several times before the night was through— an unsettling and enigmatic motif reminiscent of Martin Margiela’s lauded 1989 show.

Martens wasted no time showing love to the unmistakable motifs that make a Maison Margiela Artisanal Line so special. There were repurposed biker jackets and extreme silhouettes, only this time, in keeping with Marten’s new vision, these garments were slathered in a collage of weather-beaten wallpaper. 

In addition to expert tailoring, the show was also a stomach-turning sensory overload. A skirt made entirely of moody, grey bird wings looked a little too cadaverous for comfort. Similarly, a white dress-cowl combo, featured lace that appeared to peel off like dry skin. Martens ensured that every fit contained concerted touches of the oft-uncanny Margiela flare. 

Some standout looks include a textured lamé gown— asymmetric, sculptural, and completed with a gold-bedezined mask which blended seamlessly into a built-in hood. The clear plastic motif hit its peak in the form of a floral dress, which appeared to be covered in a crumpled acrylic that mimicked packing tape. Finally, Martens featured a statuette look which dipped into caryatid territory. Metallized drapings did all the work to amorphize the model, transforming them into a golden effigy; a walking testament to Glenn Marten’s Midas Touch. 

The fashion world can rest easy. With Glenn Martens in command, Maison Margiela isn’t going anywhere. It’s just as haunting— just as extravagant and unrelentingly beautiful as when it started. With such a striking debut, one can only guess what Glenn Martens has in store next.