JACQUEMUS SS26

Where does a fashion designer go when they miss home? 

This was the question and the thesis of Simon Porte Jaquemus’ Spring/Summer show Le Paysan (The Peasant). The entire show was a sweeping homage to Simon’s childhood in the south of France, meant to encapsulate the simplicity of the countryside, the gentle embrace of early summer, and the warmth that exists in a memory itself. 

It is no understatement to say that Jaquemus executed his vision of a bucolic summer. Set within L’Orangerie at the Château de Versailles, the collection showcased a masterclass in cotton, wool, and linen— rustic materials that infused each look with a certain charm that looks as though it were ripped right out of Jaquemus’ family photo albums. 

Starting in womenswear, Jacquemus crafted a series of Provencal looks meant to channel the memory of his own grandmother. From these cherished memories came a series of flowing white dresses made of diaphanous tulle and simple almost bed-sheet-esque linens. Tastefully serrated scarves became a recurring headwear staple, again a reference to the women of Simon Porte’s childhood— those who first supported his early dreams of fashion design.

Jacquemus’ recurring motif of Berlingot stripes made a welcome appearance. In particular, a taffeta gown branded with diagonal blue stripes evoked the look of traditional candy wrapper, or perhaps the Toile rayée umbrellas that crop up in rare photos of a young Simon Porte.

In terms of menswear, Jaquemus continued the themes of childhood fascination— combining French stylings with those of the English men that Simon Porte observed when he was young. Models showcased breezy, linen trousers paired with a selection of pastoral jackets. Again and 

again, Jaquemus delivered a mesmerizing balance between rustic and delicate— lived in and frozen in time. A valiant attempt was also made styling a childish, almost pajama-style long john look. The jury is still out on the final product.

Huge props must be given to, well… the props. In addition to countryside fits, Jaquemus debuted a line of instantly memorable vegetable-inspired handbags. One bag had been woven to resemble rosemary, and another leather minaudière had been designed to look just like a leak! It was these 

wonderful, and otherwise absurd touches that added to the overall storytelling of the show.

Two standout pieces to keep an eye on: 

The first— a sheer white dress whose styling really goes the distance. The model’s torso can be seen faintly bleeding through the translucent fabric, as a set of tassels ground the airier elements.  The entire silhouette is as stunning as it is memorable, punctuating a show that focused heavily on tactile craftsmanship.

The final look of the night was Simon Porte’s resounding testament to family, memory, and childhood. Now 35, Jacquemus turned the clock back to a mimic dress he created when he was only 8 years old. The neutral draping was paired with a matching head wrap, and although it bore the same minimalist essence as the rest of the show, purposefully ruched elements on the back offered a furtive wink to Jaquemus’ ever-immaculate tailoring.

The show ended on an fittingly reverent note, capping off what has been a glorious homecoming for Simon Porte Jacquemus. Le Paysan was the perfect ode to a childhood dream that has made the legend what he is today.