so I'm interested in my sims having the photo skill and I have get to work and based on my research there should be a photo studio in that expansion. however when I search it nothing comes up except the cameras. then I noticed it's included in the Moschino pack which I don't have but it definitely previously existed in get to work. am I crazy or did they remove it from get to work and put it in moschino, I regularly watch simmers on YouTube and I've never heard a single person talk about this. if this is true I find it pretty scammy....

Product: The Sims 4

Platform:PC

Which language are you playing the game in? English

How often does the bug occur? Every time (100%)

What is your current game version number? 1.58.69.1010

What expansions, game packs, and stuff packs do you have installed? Get To Work, Sims Deluxe

Steps: How can we find the bug ourselves? Place the "In a flash photo studio" in a room from inventory.

What happens when the bug occurs? There is no light coming form the photo studio.

What do you expect to see? I click on the light, with one, and it says "set color and intensity". It lets me set it with no light coming on. I click the turn on all lights or this room, that works for everything except the lights for the studio. Th two lights that are behind that are on the tripods, behind the white umbrella thing, beside the camera tripod are the ones I am talking about. I have put a ceiling light for now, but it really doesn't do the job.

Have you installed any customization with the game, e.g. Custom Content or Mods? Yes

Did this issue appear after a specific patch or change you made to your system? No


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Photography Controls

How to control the camera was a point of confusion for me, so here's how you change options on your camera to take pictures. When in Photo mode, use the mouse wheel to zoom in and out (or else + and - on the keyboard). Also, you may left-click to switch from moving the camera to controlling the mouse. This allows you to change the orientation of the photo (landscape or portrait), change the picture size (small, medium, large photos), or disable the flash.

Photo Studio

With the Photo Studio object, you can turn your retail store into a photo studio. You have the option to take photos of an individual Sim, which is easy to do, but the Sim AI seems to be rough when it comes to taking group photos and the tend studio interaction. The money earned for taking a photo is small - from $10 for 'Tend Photo Studio' to $50+ when you select a Sim to take a picture yourself. You do keep those pictures in your Sim's inventory, which means you can pop 5 at a time and sell them as usual. The studio just adds a bit of extra income. From a pure profit standpoint, tending the photo studio is a bad way to make money, but when you select 'Take Photo of' with the studio on a Sim that is already on your retail lot, you can earn quite a bit from the commission and then pictures combined. It's not an outstanding money-maker, but it's not too bad either! A Sim can certainly live off the money.

For those switch a lot between flash photography and photography with natural light, it can be helpful to use one of the custom settings on a camera for flash photography. On the Nikon it is called [U1], [U2] and [U3]. Other cameras may have other names for that.

Recently I bought the PW TT5 & Mini to set in my gear for off camera flash. My actual gear is a Nikon D90, SB-900 and a SB-600. I am figuring out how can I triggered both flashes at the same time. I used the Mini on the camera, the SB-900 on the TT5, but I could not fire the SB-600. Could you please help me and give an advice to how set up the same as the example above with my gear? Or may I need to buy another PW to fire up the SB-600? Many thanks and your models are great, excellent easy home studio tip!!!

Disable exposure simulation. For studio flash, you've set the mode to manual and the shooting parameters for the full flash exposure. The ambient light, which exposure simulation shows in the LCD and EVF, is way underexposed.

Brian: MagSphere. Point it straight up then tilt it forward a notch. I first walk around and look at the lighting. Where is there natural light coming in? What are the windows like and is the lighting shining through harsh or soft? Harsh light looks cool as a spotlight in a b/w photo. As much as possible, especially at a wedding reception, try to have your flash complement the decor lighting and not over power it.

Welcome aboard. Thanks so much for listening! We should have made sure to say it in the episode, but none of like using ETTL. We all prefer having direct control over the settings on our camera and the lighting in the room to having the camera and flash make some decisions on their own. I personally think it makes flash photography more difficult. The process we described in the podcast know has to work around whatever the camera is going to think should be done.

You can set the flash-sync speed for flash photography in [] or [] mode. Note that the maximum flash synchronization speed varies depending on the [: Shutter mode] setting. It is 1/250 sec. when set to [Elec. 1st-curtain] and 1/200 sec. when set to [Mechanical].

Set to [High-speed synchronization] for flash photography at higher shutter speeds than the maximum flash sync shutter speed. This is effective when shooting with an open aperture in [] mode to blur the background behind subjects outdoors in daylight, for example.

However, if you want to create something a bit more extravagant and fabulous then you might be thinking about having a large home studio or even creating a stand-alone photo studio elsewhere in the world.

With a bigger home studio, you can also add more to fill the spaces. An area to edit photos, a seating area, hair & makeup station, a wardrobe area and even props scattered across the room will help create that perfect studio look and feel.

Hi there. I've been using the r5 for studio/fashion work, but yesterday I decided to go with the r and 24 105 f4l, both of them with the latest firware. I was using godox strobes (please dont tell me sbout 3rd party stuff because canon doesnt provide this stuff). I selected 200 iso and locked it. I was shooting hand balancing performers doing extremely difficult poses, wich some required several tries and shot at the precise moment. One of the girls tried one of the hardest maneuvers she could and, when she finally did it, she was so happy, we even celebrated, but when we saw the photo... overexposed, unusable image. She was so upset she asked if I could fix it in post, but of corse no chance. Now, imagine my face in front of her. At first I thought it was a flash discharge for some reason, but then I realized the auto iso and 1600 in the metadata. I didnt understand and kept going with the shoot, but it just happened over and over again, resulting in a session full of lost shots. Im sorry for sll my criticesing but as you must imagine Im really upset about this situation, and I wanted to know if someone could tell me whats happening here, is it some kind of an "r bug"? Is it safe to rely on the r5 or is it also prone to happen with it? Thanks

If the flash has a rotating head, it can be directed at the ceiling to bounce the light towards the subject. This gives a more diffuse and softer light, as the light spreads out more. In lieu of a ceiling, you can use a white card or bounce diffuser to accomplish the same result. Take a photo of anything with the flash pointed directly at it, and then do it with the flash bounced. The bounced light will give you superior results. For auto and TTL flashes the flash will compensate for the bounce and light the subject appropriately.

From the very first time someone used a flash, whether a flash powder, flashbulb, or electronic flash, the photographer realized that the light was often very harsh, with uneven lighting. Enter the flash modifier, which while most often a diffuser of some sort, can also be a concentrator of the beam for special effects or a spotlight of sorts. This article is a useful guide to start with: -best-flash-modifiers-flash-good-modified-flash-even-better For some DIY tips, go to

Flash exposure refers to that part of the photo which was lit entirely by the light coming from flash. And ambient exposure refers to that part of the photo which was lit by the natural light in that area.

Set your aperture to something in between. I like to start with f8. In studio photography, most of the times, aperture is not as important as in outdoor photography because in studio photography, our main focus is not blurring the background. Using a moderate f-stop number like f8 cuts down a lot of ambient light coming into the camera and that is more important than depth of field.

You can also do this by raising the ISO, but that should always be the secondary option since raising ISO would also mean introducing noise. But to be frank, most modern day cameras can easily handle ISO values till even about 1600 without significant noise. In fact a lot of photographers use ISO values like 200 or 400 to start off with so they can reduce dependence on flash power alone and doing this means your flash works less and therefore conserves battery.

The Hikon QX40di Gladiator is a digital single-lens reflex camera, similar to a Nikon D5000 or Nikon D7000. It is the most fully-featured camera in the game. Sims can use the Gladiator to take all available sizes of photographs that their skill level permits. This camera has three recolorable channels for the body, the flash, and the lens. This camera is expensive to run, so best for Sims seeking to really excel in photography, otherwise it may not be profitable. 'Hikon' is a play on the "Nikon" camera company.

Several changes can be made directly at the flash inside the studio now. Just one click away, in the revised settings panel, you can change the light shaper, add a honeycomb grid or swap a flash head. With this small but powerful feature we can further optimize your workflow. ff782bc1db

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