I Want To Download Bolt App

All the French stuff you said, can see the argument for the M2 carbine. What I really want to see thought is the American advance rule for their rifles and automatic rifles being replace with a moral rule and the advance rule becoming a standard part of automatic and assault rifle and the introduction of a semiauto rifle that is basically a bolt action with the rule, the Germans, Americans, Russians and late war French (who had 2 models the Grand and their own domestic Mas 44 rifle forgotten weapons has a good video on it) all had semiauto rifles which provided a quantum leap in firepower. Would help to show the changes in warfare as well as provide some accuracy to early marines who were still using the Springfield.

Just want to make sure I got how Ack-ing works in Storm.I have 1 spout and 2 bolts chained together. Spout emits tuple to Bolt1 which in turn will emit a tuple to Bolt 2. I want Bolt 2 to ack the initial tuple sent from Spout and I'm not sure how.

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Each time anchoring is done on an emit statement from bolt to bolt, a new node in a "tree" structure is built... well more like a list in my case since I never send the same tuple to 2 or more tuples, I have a 1 to 1 relationship.

In any other use case (i.e. you want the touple to be ack'ed prior to execution in the last bolt) you should manually define the links between your tuples (called anchoring). Refer to the documentation.

Hi all, I want to embed a bolt into a knob. The way I think this should be done is: print support material with a hole for the stem of the bolt and as support for the knob, print the knob, pause print to add bolt, print the top of the knob to enclose the bolt. However, I can't seem to perform the first step in prusa slicer Anyone?

Another idea is to print the knob upside down, with a first few layers to cover the top and then a cutout the size and shape of the bolt head. Plus print a plug the shape of the bold head with a hole in the middle the diameter of the bolt. Insert bolt into knob. Slide plug onto the bold and push into the cutout in the knob. No supports needed.

You can also design-in support in the model. Something that will break off. Maybe an outer wall 1 or 2 walls thick and extruding down 5mm or your bolt length .. it only needs to touch at a few places and can break off. Repeat with an inner circle. Some do this with a support part being separate, but both bodies lumped together in the STL and imported together.

I would model a new knob for each size.

regards Joan

alternatively, you could consider scaling the models to re size them, in prusa slicer. but that could get messy, if the bolt length remains the same

Instead of modeling a new knob for each bolt, you could also just use a generic fully solid knob model, and use negative volumes to "model" the bolt inside -- just a hexagon and a cylinder. Would just need to measure the hex width/height, and the thread diameter (accounting for tolerances of course).

I would like the gateway functionally added to the lock-bolt. I like being able to see when my door was locked and unlocked. I also like the auto lock feature from the wyze lock better than the auto lock timer on the lock-bolt. Please look into these two things.

I LOVE my Wyze Bolt but the lack of a bt-wifi bridge for remote access and alerting prevents me from using it full time. The fingerprint and lovely keypad are why I went with the bolt, but over time, the lack of immediate remote notifications when my door locks/unlocks or a code has been used made me switch back to my old wifi lockset.

The new Smart Lock V2 checks all of the boxes except not having the wifi connectivity and ability to do automations. I understand that Wyze wants users requesting these features to buy the Smart Lock V1 but the new design of the Smart Lock V2 has a more professional look (w/ the built in keypad) and also has the fingerprint reader. To allow users the best of both worlds, I am suggesting that Wyze creates an adapter to plug in to the wall next to the lock that will allow the lock to connect to wifi and perform automations

Just adding my support for having this feature even if it requires an additional bridge to be purchased. Then you can use the auto-unlock function to work via geofencing to trigger from your phone to the bridge to the lock. This would make the setup the best of all features most everyone wants in a smart lock solution.

Having taken apart the deadbolt to re-key it recently, I felt pretty confident in my ability to install the Bolt on my own. The good news is the Bolt can, in many cases, be installed with tools no more complex than a Phillips-head screwdriver. It ultimately took me only about half an hour to put in, though I had a couple points where I needed to make slight adjustments.

The bolt is quite easy to setup. I downloaded the google assistant app, and then I plugged in the bolt. I opened up that app, and a banner came up to pair. I just selected that, and it was paired. The connection between the devices seems pretty stable, even if my phone is connected to my cars speaker system via BT. Google seems to hear my voice well, and always gets my commands right.

Jeff,

If you want to make a jig that holds the anchor bolts in the correct position I would do as you suggest but not place it until the concrete bond beam has been levelled. otherwise this will become a lot harder and there is a good chance of voids or an irregular surface around the bolts.

I can't help but feel my answers to your last enquiry have caused you to worry unnecessarily. If you place the bolts a bit too early you will quickly see they are tilting and can wait a bit. If they are a bit off plumb or a bit off the centre of where your sill plate will go that isn't a big deal.

Thank you, Malcolm. Yes, I was a little worried about leveling underneath the 2xs. Putting them in place after the grout is poured and leveled, as you suggest, sounds like the best idea. I made a test holder today, starting with just one nail at each end, and it held really tight. I had to tap it with a hammer to get it on, but it took only a few seconds. I was thinking about tying to the rebar only to help the bolts stay aligned, but given how tightly the holder stayed in place, I don't think it's necessary.

No, you didn't make me worry about placing the bolts any more than I would have anyway; I'm just extremely wary of making mistakes with concrete, as they would be so hard to correct. It is good to know that some slight misplacements won't be a big deal.

I may have a hard time getting anyone to come help me for such a short amount of time. If I have a pump operator filling the bond beam and reinforced cores, my holders with bolts and nuts inserted ready to go, and the spots where each holder with bolt will go marked on the interior side of the stem wall largely enough that some grout spillage won't cover the marks, do you think I'll have ample time to level the grout and place the holders by myself before the concrete has set too much?

Malcolm's method also works -- but his method can result in slightly weaker concrete near the bolts. Inserting the bolts displaces the large aggregate in the mix, and the displaced aggregate is replaced by watery grout. I'm not saying this is a big problem -- it usually isn't -- but seismic engineers care.

Thank you, Martin. My bolt holders grab the sides of the concrete blocks tightly enough that I could set them 1" above their final positions before the grout is poured so that I can see and reach under the wood with a trowel to make sure the grout is solid and smooth and then tap them down the last inch once everything looks good. Would moving the bolts only the last inch after the grout is poured alleviate the displacement enough--or would it be better to set the holders all the way down before the pour and then just reach under the wood with a trowel to smooth the grout and eliminate any voids sight-unseen?

The grout pour went quite well. I was glad that I set all of my anchor-bolt holders in place beforehand, as the bolts all ended up at the exact depth and placement I wanted, and I had plenty of time to level and consolidate the grout without any help. The anchor-bolt holders were easy to make and set, and they held onto the wall tightly even with the pump hose bumping against them. One of the blocks that I had left with a marginally tight grip got raised up 1/4" during the pour; I tapped it back down with a hammer while the grout was still quite wet, and I gave each other block a tap just to make sure as I went around leveling.

Use of a crossbow is pretty heavily weighted toward 5 levels of bolt ace, full stop. A stat to damage is pretty necessary, and the first 5 levels give you a bit of utility. Crossbowman is generally pretty bad, by giving up weapon/armor training it kills the utility of the fighter class.

A lot of people recommend inquisitor, as there are some useful teamwork feats for archers that work best via solo tactics. I'd probably decide how much damage matters to me, Doing something like Bolt ace5/other martial classes or inquisitor will likely be your best bet. Additionally, level 5 bolt ace also increases your crit multiplier. For a lot of weapons, this doesn't mean much... but crossbows have a 19-20 crit range and they aim for a style that gets a lot of hits in. After bolt ace 5, a light cross bow has the same stats as the falcata (one of the few exotic weapons people view as 'good'; I use the light cross bow for reference, since it is one of the better ones that can be fixed after just rapid reload). So stat to damage, and the ability to get a powerful critical that multipliers that damage. There is a reason why bolt ace 5 is seen as the prerequisite to a crossbow build. 2351a5e196