The wife decided to replace her failing Canon compact video camera with the Nikon Coolpix P900 digital camera. It was purchased from B&H Photo and Video. She agreed to let me try it for astrophotography for this review.

Some initial observations about the P900:

Only a "Quick Start Guide" is included with the camera. The full manual (PDF) has to be downloaded.

The camera has a built-in vibration reduction capability. But to turn it OFF when the camera is mounted on a tripod you have to use the Setup menu. There is no specific button to set VR ON or OFF.

Similarly, there is no button to turn manual focus ON. You have to use a Menu. But unlike with DSLRs, the P900 can be set to focus at Infinity (thanks for that Nikon!).

The LCD screen has to be moved away from the camera body to make the screen visible to see the image area or to use the Menu. However, once the screen has been moved off the camera and rotated it can be placed back on the body for use. Fortunately, the Menu is visible in the viewfinder if the screen is OFF.

The electronic viewfinder and the LCD screen are not active simultaneously. When you move your eye away from the viewfinder the screen turns ON. When you move your eye back to the viewfinder the screen turns OFF. There is a button to toggle manually between the two.

While not major issues, these differences from the Nikon DSLRs I have used do take some getting used to.


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The P900 does not have a Raw image mode; it saves images as JPEG files in either Fine (compression ratio 1:4) and Normal (1:8). You can also set the image size from 4608x3456 (default) down to 640x480. Aspect ratios of 4:3, 16:9, 3:2, and 1:1 are available. One other point about the lack of Raw; there is no Lightroom Lens Profile for the P900, at least not from Adobe. That's due to the camera shooting in JPEG only. For this review, unless otherwise noted, photos taken with the P900 have not been cropped and only minimal editing was done in Adobe Lightroom and/or GraphicConverter.

The Coolpix 3200's built-in flash underexposed this shot badly at the default exposure setting, and was still a little dim with a +1.0EV exposure compensation adjustment, but a +1.3 EV boost left the image too bright. Overall color is pretty good, though the flash creates a blue cast on the white shirt and also results in slightly pale skin tones on Marti's face. The background incandescent lighting results in slight orange tints in the shadows. I also shot with the camera's Slow-Sync flash mode, which resulted in more even lighting, but more of a yellowish cast from the incandescent lighting in the room. I chose a positive exposure compensation adjustment of +0.7 EV for the Slow Sync example. Highlights are pretty bright with glowing edges, but overall results are still more pleasing here. Color balance is warmer, with a stronger warm cast from the background lighting, but results are still good.

The Coolpix 3200 has somewhat limited low-light shooting capabilities, despite its Dusk and Night scene modes. The camera produced clear, bright, usable images down to the one foot-candle (11 lux) light level, although the shot at 1/2 foot-candle is still usable, if not quite as bright. Given that typical city street lighting at night produces about one foot-candle of illumination, the Coolpix 3200 should do fine in most outdoor night shots with artificial lighting. Color was pretty good in the brighter shots, but took on a warm, reddish cast in the dimmer exposures. Noise is moderately high, but not too distracting. The table below shows the best exposure I was able to obtain for each of a range of illumination levels. Images in this table (like all sample photos) are untouched, exactly as they came from the camera.

My first impression of the Nikon P950 is that the quality of the camera has improved. Looking at the bottom of the camera, the build quality seems to be more robust. My Nikon P900 broke at the tripod mount. The tripod mount ripped out of the plastic while carrying my camera on my Peak Design capture belt clip.


All images in this review are straight from the P950 (no post-production) reduced in size and quality (@ 90-98%) to optimise page load on Googles squoosh.app, so some of the images may appear softer than the original.

The camera is slightly larger than the P900 due to the larger viewfinder and a slightly increased body size. The Nikon P950 camera body feels more natural in larger male hands. The body build has a marginally more sturdy feel, and overall finishes are slightly improved. All of these improvements have taken its toll on the battery life, and the P950 has a slightly shorter battery life at 290 pictures. The battery did run out during my photography session. A somewhat better battery indicator would have prevented this.

Anyway, you create your world to your image by your way of thinking and seeing things, so up to you to know if it is worth the money you pay for it. There are not more components involved in a same type FF camera, than in any minichip one. If I consider some 10% bulkier size, I consider to pay 10% more. But that is marketing policy, want it, pay for it? Those policies are anyway based on giving a chance to all cameras to be sold by just putting them in a different price range to protect the lower edge sales, while most of them are not worth what you pay for it. To me, manufacturing and selling just a few excellent models is a better policy than selling 50 different, bad or average, ones and a few excellent among them. In that game, the better ones are just heavily overpriced, as we know if from the actual stand of the market. Camera marketing sucks.

I took a picture with my camera - not realizing that I didn't have my SD card in. I do not have the cord to transfer photos onto the computer. Is there any way I can put the picture from the camera memory onto the SD card? Is there a transfer option for this on the camera? Worried because now the picture is just "stuck" on my camera :( Help.

Yes, I had to find my disk since this was no help. Press the playback button. Then press the MENU button. Arrow down to see "Copy" and press ok. This will give you the option to copy from the camera to SD card or from the SD card to the camera.

I tried all of the suggested ways & none of them worked! Then I had an epiphany!(LOL..I wanted to use that word for the longest) Anyway, I took my SD card out of the camera/Favorited all of the pictures that I wanted to transfer from camera to SD card/Reinserted SD card/

As a scuba diver who travels a lot and sometimes goes to the most remote places, its one of the things unmissable in my backpack! I can take nice fishlife and ocean life photos during scuba diving (see all underwater dive pics in this post) without having to worry about an expensive, vulnerable camera with separate housing. Click here to buy on Amazon. (As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases). If you liked this post, and doing more adventure travel, watersports and activities in the outdoors, you might also like my review about the Blackview rugged, waterproof Android phone.

Along the way, we photographed some of these birds, me with a point-and-shoot Nikon Coolpix p900 zoom lens camera and Jim using a DSLR Canon 7d Mark II with a 400mm lens. In this post, I will share pictures of some of these cool birds. Most were taken with the Nikon, but with a few with the Canon. So you can compare the results when two people using two different cameras photograph birds under the same conditions.

I am pleased with the pictures that I was able to take, but there were also photo situations that were beyond what it is reasonable for this camera to handle. Still, for the price and weight of the p900, I think it did a darn good job.

So if I use full zoom, and don't stare directly at sun and instead standing behind a wall with just camera away from wall and me looking at camera's screen, with full zoom (40x), can it damange my camera and eyes?

Particularly, it can damage the sensor of a camera that does not have an optical viewfinder and that keeps the sensor exposed to provide an image on the LCD screen for composing photographs even faster than it can damage a camera with a mirror and optical viewfinder that protects the shutter curtains and imaging sensor from the Sun's light except for the instant the photo is actually exposed. Please note that even with a DSLR, when using Live View the danger is the same as with a mirrorless camera.

EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard can be the best option for photo recovery from many brands of digital cameras like Nikon Coolpix. It automatically identifies your camera's brands and types, enabling you to get your deleted photos more precisely. What's more, it recovers files from a failed external storage device like an SD card. Thus, connect the SD card that lost photos to the PC. Download EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard on your computer and recover deleted photos from the SD card.

If the photos were saved to an external memory card and the data wasn't destroyed, there is another technique to recover images from a Nikon digital camera. However, even if you can't find the photos in the recent directories, you can still restore them using data recovery software. It can retrieve images from the following Nikon series:

You can usually retrieve your lost Nikon photos, especially if it wasn't too long ago. Utilizing a data recovery tool that can assist in recovering lost data from your Nikon camera is your best option. Hopefully, one of the aforementioned techniques helped you recover NEF files.

Download robust photo recovery software, such as EaseUS. You may easily and hassle-free restore photos from digital cameras with the use of this. You can either use a camera video repair tool or follow certain troubleshooting steps to fix your Nikon camera if it encounters issues like LCD blur or LCD blankness. e24fc04721

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