I have a cybershot DSC-T90 which Ive been using happily for a few years. However as of yesterday, when i take a photo it saves sideways. So when I view it on my camera its flipped 90 degrees anti-clockwise. Also when i copied the pics onto pc they came out that way. I guess I might have accidentally changed one of the settings? Anyone have any ideas?
When I click on the play button the photos are there. I connected the camera to my computer through USB and switched it on. When I click import pictures it says that there are no new pictures. When I click to view the contents there are no pictures there. How do I retrieve the images?
How To Download Pictures From Sony Cyber Shot Camera
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I have done that but the folder appears empty and when I click import pictures it says that there are no new pictures to import. This is wrong because when I click the playback button on the camera the pictures are there.
my camera is sony nex-c3. help! my problem is that i have tried your suggestion but it does not have a "copy" in the memory card tool located in the set up menu. i have also tried connecting my camera to my laptop using the usb cable. however, there were no pictures. only those stored in my memory card can be viewed in my laptop. help me. the pictures saved in the internal memory of my camera was my oath taking ceremony.
We are unable to download pictures from our Sony Cybershop DSC-W830 digital camera to our iPad Air using the Apple Lightning to USB Adapter. When we connect the camera to the iPad we get a message window that says, "Cannot Use Device DSC-W830: The connected device requires too much power". How can we solve this problem and view our pictures and movies taken with this camera on the iPad Air?
Thanks JimHdk. We are very new to all this and aren't familiar with powered USB hubs. How can I get more info on this? If it's something that will allow us to connect the camera directly to the iPad and resolve the power issues I would like to give it a try.
Thanks ChrisJ4203. I've just downloaded iTunes to my daughter's PC but I have no idea how to sync the iPad with the PC to get the pictures from the PC to the iPad. Is there a step by step list of instructions somewhere we can refer to?
Thanks for the link ChrisJ4203. We just followed the steps to move a photo from the computer to the iPad! I still want to be able to transfer the photos directly though the lightning connector since that's simple for my daughter but the iTunes sync method will allow us to move forward with our project in the meantime. Thank you!
I tried a powered USB hub and using it I was able to import pictures as long as there wasn't any video on the camera. I'll open another discussion on what to do about the video problem now that the camera is communicating with the iPad. Thank you!
This image simulates the harsh contrast (as well as the color balance)of outdoor sunlight. The extreme tonal range of this image makes it atough shot for many digicams, which is precisely why I set it up thisway, and why I don't use fill flash or a reflector to open the shadows.The object is to hold both highlight and shadow detail without producinga "flat" picture with muddy colors, and the DSC-F88 performedpretty well, although it did still lose detail in the brightest highlights.
The shot at right was taken with a +0.3 EV exposurecompensation adjustment, which produced reasonably bright midtones andlost only a small amount of highlight detail. The Autowhite balance setting produced the most accurate overall color here, asthe Daylight setting was quite warm.
Skin tones are good, and color in the flowers is quite good as well,with the blue flowers only slightly darker than in real life. (Many digicamshave trouble with this blue, which is actually a light navy blue withslight purple tints in it.) The strong red flowers are a little hot, butthis seems to be a pretty common response among the digicams I test, asthese hues are apparently at or slightly beyond the limits of the sRGBcolor gamut. Resolution is very high, with a lot of fine detail visiblein the flower bouquet. Detail in the shadows is OK, if not spectacular,with a moderately high level of image noise.
The biggest problem with this shot was that the F88's autofocus systemappeared to be focusing somewhat in front of the subject here, with theresult that Marti's features kept coming out blurry. I managed to getsomewhat sharp photos by framing on Marti's face, half-pressingand holding the shutter button to set focus, and then reframing to snapthe actual photos. This was apparently a problem with the specific cameraI was testing, perhaps due to shipping damage to its optics. - I'll tryto get a replacement unit from Sony to retest, and will remove this commentif the replacement unit doesn't show the problem.
To view the entire exposure series from -0.3 to +1.0 EV, see files F88OUT2AM1.HTMthrough F88OUT2AP3.HTM on the thumbnail index page.
Saturation Series:Ā
The F88's color saturation adjustment has a good range of control,although I'd personally prefer a bit more subtle steps, or better yet,more steps covering the same range.SaturationSeries Low
Ā Normal
High
Ā
Ā Contrast Series:Ā
Overall, the F88's contrast is higher than I like to see. Its contrastadjustment helps with harsh lighting like this, but really doesn't gofar enough in the low contrast direction. On the positive side though,cutting contrast leaves color saturation about where it should be, somethingnot all cameras manage to do.
Exposure and color are similar to the wider shotabove, with good midtone detail and highlights. The shot at right wastaken with no exposure compensation adjustment, and the exposure is prettymuch dead on. The DSC-F88's 3x zoom lens helps prevent distortion of Marti'sfeatures, an important consideration in close-up portraits like this.Detail and resolution are much higher here, with great definition in thedetails of Marti's face and hair.
The DSC-F88's built-in flash underexposed this shot slightly at its defaultsetting, although its coverage was still pretty good. I found the bestexposure with the flash intensity set to High,though the highlights on the white shirt were close to being blown out.Color is very good, even in the very difficult blue flowers of the bouquet.I also shot with the camera's Slow-Sync flashmode, again choosing the High intensity setting as the best overall. Exposureis a bit brighter in this mode, due to the longer shutter time. However,the longer exposure allows more of the background incandescent lightinginto the image, producing a strong orange cast.
Overly warm color with both white balance settings, but slightly betterthan average exposure accuracy.This shot is always a very tough test of a camera's white balance capability,given the strong, yellowish color cast of the household incandescent bulbsused for the lighting. The DSC-F88's Auto andIncandescent white balance settings both producedwarm color balances here, but I chose the Incandescent as the most pleasingoverall. The shot at right was taken with a +0.7 EV exposure compensationadjustment, which is slightly lower than average for this shot. The highlightsin Marti's shirt are close to being blown out, but I felt that any lessexposure boost resulted in photos that were too dark overall. Althoughthe overall color balance is pretty warm, skin tones still look good.The color saturation is pretty good as well, though the red flowers inthe bouquet are oversaturated quite a bit.
ISO Series:
There's some noise visible in this shot, even at ISO 100, but noise levelsincrease relatively slowly, and even at ISO 400, the image noise is withinwhat I would consider to be the acceptable range. ("Acceptable"will depend a lot on your own personal tastes though, so check the phototo see what you think of it yourself.)
The DSC-F88's Auto white balance settingproduced very nice results here, with an accurate white value on the housetrim and good overall color. The Daylightsetting resulted in a warmer cast, though not too strong of one. Resolutionis very high, with a lot of fine detail visible in the tree limbs andfront shrubbery. (The DSC-F88's 5.1-megapixel CCD stretches the limitsof this poster as a test target. Even though the poster was made froma 500MB scan of a 4x5 negative shot with a tack-sharp lens, the DSC-F88is close to extracting all the detail that's to be found here.) Detailsare also fairly sharp throughout the center of the frame, though the cornersare slightly soft.
This image is shot at infinity to test far-fieldlens performance. NOTE that this image cannot be directly compared tothe other "house" shot, which is a poster, shot in the studio.The rendering of detail in the poster will be very different than in thisshot, and color values (and even the presence or absence of leaves onthe trees!) will vary in this subject as the seasons progress. In generalthough, you can evaluate detail in the bricks, shingles and window detail,and in the tree branches against the sky. Compression artifacts are mostlikely to show in the trim along the edge of the roof, in the bricks,or in the relatively "flat" areas in the windows.
This is my ultimate "resolution shot,"given the infinite range of detail in a natural scene like this, and theDSC-F88 did pretty well with it, albeit not up to the level of the bestfull-sized 5-megapixel cameras on the market. The tree limbs over theroof and fine foliage in front of the house show strong detail, with gooddefinition in the leaf patterns, although some of the fine leaf patternsin the bush to the right of the bay window have a rather blocky appearance.There's some softness in the top corners of the frame, and some lens flareevident throughout. A slight overexposure at its default exposure settingcaused the camera to lose all of the fine detail in the bright white paintsurrounding the bay window, a trouble spot for many digicams, but detailin the shadow area above the front door was a little limited as well.The table below shows a standard resolution and quality series, followedby ISO, sharpness, saturation, contrast, and picture effects series. 152ee80cbc
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