You can control the speed of the recording process. By default the maximum supported value is selected, but you can select a lower speed if you want to read the CD, DVD or Blu-ray with an older burner (or just to be on the safe side).

After the ruin of too many potato latkes, I'm giving in and buying an induction cooktop. My current stove has effectively maybe three temperature settings, and deep-frying or the preparation of dry caramels is a nightmare. I'd like something with easy temperature adjustment - perhaps a knob? - and a price of not more than $100.


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Mine aren't cooktops - just the single burner induction that get tucked away when they aren't in use. If I'm worried about scratches (which I was with the first - and haven't given a thought to since) I put a little six sided silpat on top of the burner.

I may be making a severe malapropism: I've seen the single-burner induction hotplates described as cooktops on vendors' pages, and was using the term as such. I do, in fact, mean the portable single-burner devices.

I've used induction cooktops, and haven't found them to be any better or worse overall than a standard glass cooktop/burner. I know they're popular with people who have small children, but aside from the cool surface thing, they seem to offer nothing worth paying extra for. That said, I've only worked on glass models, since it's difficult to find anything else here (in fact, I didn't realize until now that there were induction cooktops that aren't glass).

I've used induction cooktops, and haven't found them to be any better or worse overall than a standard glass cooktop/burner. I know they're popular with people who have small children, but aside from the cool surface thing, they seem to offer nothing worth paying extra for.

I very much disagree with that assessment. I had a hybrid with 2 burners of each type and almost never used the radiant ones. Advantages in my experience are: more rapid heating, more rapid cooling, very good temperature control - especially at the low temperature range (depends on model), much more energy efficient, and of course the cool surface so food doesn't burn on and you can pick up spilled bits and eat them.

Complaints are the burner area is too small, all the ones I looked at online seem to be the same though. Also my small all-clad pan that is advertised as induction ready doesn't work (the fob won't turn on with it), giving it the magnet test it is magnetic but weaker than my other pans that work so I don't know if it's that or the size.

Also, I wasn't arguing against induction as such, but pointing out that at a given price point, you can get a better quality standard glass cooktop than an induction one. Since he's only looking at a single burner unit (which I didn't realize originally), if the thing dies in a short time and isn't under warranty, it wouldn't mean that he has nothing to cook on, so I guess that isn't so important.

Still, all the recent model glass cooktops I've used came to full temperature extremely rapidly; I haven't noticed that induction units are quicker, but if they are, it's a question of seconds, and if seconds are an actual issue in terms of heating time, then a gas burner is the way to go.

I expect burners to be hot, so rapid cooling isn't something I expect of them, or care about (but I don't have children, either). I've yet to see an induction cooktop that has better temperature controls than regular glass ones, but that may be due to the fact that here, glass is standard, so the array of options is broad, and there is a lot of competition.

You need to be aware that (1) These 'tops are NOT infinitely-variable as were rheostatically controlled coil or valved gas 'tops. They all have discrete settings (1-6, 1-10, 1-100, etc.). The cheapo one-burner hotplates typically have the fewest, and the $$$ full-on cooktops typically have more. At 1-100 steps, it approximates infinite variability, but in the 1-10 models (i.e., the vast majority), you don't even get much of a spread. This is because typically 6-10 is WAY too much power for most dishes except boiling. This can leave you... right where you started.

Okay, I'm not getting this: I know these are significant issues with the old-fashioned coil burners, but surely no one buys those anymore, and any decent glass ceramic cooktop heats evenly over the entire burner surface and has relatively fine control; the completeness of the contact area is dependent on the bottom of the pan being even (but only an open flame is forgiving of warped pans). I'm starting to think we're talking about two entirely different kinds of glass ceramic cooktops/burners.

I think it would be nice to see the technology evolve so that we have power levels which are equivalent across brands and models. Wouldn't it be interesting to have power levels specified as something absolute, so the setting was equivalent between manufacturers? It seems like the induction technology is more capable of this than any other. Then a recipe could be written for an absolute power level rather than some baseless setting like 'medium-low'. (That always makes me smirk because medium-low on my big burner is nothing like medium-low on my small burner.)

Put the pan on the stove and turn the burner to medium heat. Add the garlic and chili pepper to the pan. Allow the garlic to toast and chili pepper to heat up with the oil. As it slowly cooks it will flavor the oil. You should start to smell the garlic cooking after about 3 minutes.

Your best bet is probably the Trig Assault Frigate, but you definitely need different fits for different missions.

Or just get the garmur fit (or any other fit for the team burners), and then you can use this single fit for the 4 team burners (or at least 3, because of the strong shield and long range of that Jaguar)!

I'm a big fan, but I think this is my first comment. I have made this exact recipe for some time and after burning a batch of two I learned a handy trick. After adding the corn and sugar to the oil, I take the pan off the burner for 30 seconds. Not sure why it works, but it always turns out perfectly.

Cover your wood completely with a single layer of butcher paper. Mentally divide your design into equal sections and press the first section for 20 seconds while lightly pressing down. Lift and move the easy press over to the next section and press for 20 seconds. Continue until each section has been pressed for 20 seconds. Then repeat another two times until each section has been pressed three times for a TOTAL of one minute. If your burned areas are not dark enough, continue in 20 second increments.

If you decrease the throttle the afterburner will automatically deactivate, and you have to re-enable it with the button combo if you wish to turn it on again, as seen above. If you wish, you can bind any button combination to this feature of course, I just chose A + X because it seemed the easiest to remember.

The effectiveness of an oil burner gun can significantly impact the efficiency of the heating or incineration process. A well-functioning gun ensures the oil is atomized properly, leading to complete and efficient burning, while a malfunctioning gun can lead to incomplete burning, wasted fuel, and lower heat production.

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