Free Cross Stitch Embroidery Designs To Download

I learned to embroider when I was a kid, when everyone was really into cross stitch (remember the '80s?). Eventually, I migrated to surface embroidery, teaching myself with whatever I could get my hands on...read more

First, I started with the lower corner area and worked the outline foundation double cross stitches around that small corner (highlighted in the photo above), followed by the inside foundation cross stitches.

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So, starting from that lower left corner, this is the direction my stitches took, to work the first layer of the double cross stitches. The green dot indicated my starting point, and the black arrows indicate the direction the thread is traveling on the back of the fabric, to make each new half cross stitch.

Work each upright cross stitch so that the top stitch is always going in the same direction, in this case, from left to right. End each upright cross stitch on the side that is closest to your next stitch, so that the jump between the two stitches is short.

Your work will look much better if all your uppermost stitches on each double cross stitch and cross stitch is oriented in the same direction. So, for this piece, all my uppermost stitches on the double cross stitch are horizontal.

By the time I reach the last stitch (right above the first stitch on the left side of the triangle), all my stitches are now double cross stitches, and the uppermost stitch on each double cross stitch has the same horizontal orientation.

So, in go the cross stitches, working them has half cross stitches in that first row of two, starting on the left next to the last double cross stitch and returning to the left, and then stepping up to the one above and working it by itself. Notice that the uppermost stitch on the cross stitches all cross in the same direction.

From this point, I went on to work the foundation stitches in the flowery diamond area of the design (all of which are double cross stitches), and then the foundation stitches in the other adjoining white lace area. Again, I work whatever fits in the hoop, breaking the design up in chunks that make sense.

The Cross-Stitch Meets Blackwork Designs are great transition designs for those new to blackwork and who have previously done cross-stitch, although no experience of cross-stitch or counted thread is necessary.

This is my first venture into hand embroidery. Counted cross-stitch has always been my game. So, please help!

I am taking on a huge tablecloth project which I will still be working on when I'm 90! Having never worked with anything stamped, I don't know what happens to the "stamp" outline? Does it stay there or wash out?

The tablecloth is 65/35 poly/cotton fabric and I think I read somewhere that I should wash and dry it first, before I start....then what happens to the stamped outline? I will have to use hoop also. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Carol responds...

Well done for pushing the boundaries of the needlework techniques you have tried, Aline. Counted cross stitch can be addictive, but branching out and trying free style embroidery is an exciting challenge.

When you buy a project with the design already stamped in place it is usually a permanent state of affairs. The transfer is not likely to wash out. It is therefore important to cover all traces of the pattern with stitches so that it does not show in the finished piece.

Washing the fabric before stitching is not something I tend to do. Often embroidery fabrics have "size" or starch in them to keep them firm, not floppy, and therefore easier to stitch on. However, if you do wash your tablecloth your transfer is unlikely to disappear.

Using an embroidery hoop on a piece like a tablecloth is fine. But some precautions are worth taking.

For example if you can wrap the hoop rings with bias binding or a finger bandage first it will help to keep the work clean as well as making the hoop hold the work without it sliding.

It is also important to remove the hoop when you put your fabric away at the end of an embroidery session. This will help to prevent marks on the cloth.

Another thing to keep in mind is to not leave the needle in the fabric when you stop for the night. If, for whatever reason, you do not go back to the project or some time you may find that the needle has rusted and the mark left in the fabric is unable to be removed.

Have fun with your new project.

Regards,

Carol

Did you ever had a picture or photo in your hand and thought: it would be nice if I could transfer this into a cross stitch embroidery pattern.With a few clicks in your image editing programm you can easily pixelate images but you quickly come to your limit. For example when it comes tomap the colors in the image in order to find the corresponding embroidery threads. And after that telling the printer that you want him to print out a handy, well-recognizable pattern ...

Just upload your favorite picture, determine the number of stitches as well as the number of embroidery colors and let pixel stitch do the work for you.In no time the pattern in PDF format will be provided to you so you can easily download and print it. In the PDF you will find all the infos to get started with your project like informations to the different color numbers and the legend of the embroidery pattern.

Finding the right tutorial is key here. The one I followed was nice enough to include an entire section for calculating the size of your bag! I was making a cross stitch tarot bag for my current favorite deck, the Tarot of the Divine. These are the measurements I came up with for the fabric:

Since I wanted a cross stitch design on the front of my bag, I measured one of my cards in inches and multiplied it by 14 to get the size my design would be. Since the bag was meant to hold these cards, it would be at least as tall and wide as the cards themselves, after all. In my example, it ended up being 4168 pixels.

I even ironed the corners down to make them easier to stitch across! Though I will note that if like me your design has some metallic thread in it, make SURE you cover it with a cloth and do not iron it directly!

In this section you will find our fine cross stitch machine embroidery designs. Our embroideries are available in ART, DST, EXP, HUS,JEF, JEF+, PES, VIP, VP3 and XXX format.Some of the machine embroideries in the Cross stitch embroidery section can be ordered both separately and in sets, consisting of several embroidery designs. When you purchase an embroidery set - you SAVE up to 20% as compared to the prices of purchasing our embroideries separately.

Important: Please note that the products included in this section of our on line embroidery catalog are machine embroidery designs which are to be stitched using an embroidery machine. Normally designs are NOT printable charts for embroidery by hand. However, for some of them there are available cross stitch patterns in PDF format. In such cases this will be noted on the product page, and in the "Format" field there will be an option "PDF".

Stranded embroidery thread has 6 strands. It is specially designed to be able to separate the strands so you can stitch with less if you want to. For example, you might stitch your cross stitches with two, then stitch the outlines in one strand. Sometimes you might use 3 strands to create thicker denser crosses, or only one strand to create very thin light crosses. This will add dimension and shading to your picture. 0852c4b9a8

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