I just took delivery of my first Rampley pocket square and I have to say I'm absolutely thrilled. The quality is far superior to any other pocket squares that I own. The complimentary collar stays were a nice gesture, too. First rate company, first rate product. Trevor - Canada
Over the past couple years I've become more cognizant of the spark that a well-chosen pocket square can add to tailoring, and the exceptional designs from Rampley & Co are a big reason why. The classic art pictured on each square is undoubtedly the brand's signature appeal, but even smaller details like intricate border patterns and hand-rolled edges give each piece a one-of-a-kind feel.
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From a person that feels naked without a pocket square in the chest pocket of my jacket, I can honestly say that Rampley & Co. have changed the way I look upon pocket squares. It is truly a great joy wear a piece of art in your pocket. They feature carefully selected artwork motifs, beautifully printed on high-quality silk and well handcrafted with nice hand-rolled edges.
We believe that 40cm is the minimum size for a high-quality silk pocket square. Any smaller and it will slide down inside your pocket with any movement of your jacket, as well as limit the number of folds you can achieve. It goes without saying we would never advocate any form of pocket square holder. All our pocket squares are either 42cm x 42cm or 40cm x 40cm, unless they are linen or wool based in which case, a 33cm x 33cm square works perfectly with the more structural fabrics.
We take the utmost care in printing our pocket squares, which results in truly remarkable levels of detail. Faces, objects and colours are sharp and well defined to give a truly stunning finish. We also take exceptional care with the colour bleed, so the print is almost as crisp on the back as it is on the front, allowing for an unlimited number of folds.
The art of hand rolling pocket squares is a unique craft and truly makes each piece individual and unique. We feel that the precision and care taken by our skilled artisans gives each square its own unique character, finish and feel. To create the finest rolled hems, the edge of the silk must be softy turned over with a handheld needle and then small stitches are inserted approximately one half to one centimetre apart around the edge, creating a supple yet prominent border.
Recent announcements that virtually all Twitter and Square employees will have the option to work from home forever sent shock waves through business communities already grappling with the difficult decision of how and when to reopen amid the Covid-19 pandemic. On the heels of surprisingly successful work from home experiences, survey data clearly suggest a momentum towards expanded work from home policies going forward. The obvious longer-term policy question for many organizations is how much working from home and for how long? Google and Facebook have announced plans to permit employees to work from home through the end of 2020.
We need your help! We are a co-op, and all our members need access to square from home and at our store. We have turned off two-step verification, but regularly get notices about setting it up. We don't want those notices, particularly since our members get confused. And just now square made us change our password; we have never had to do that before. I suspect we were asked to do so because we are not using two-step. Please, please, we want to go back to the old square without all this two-step and password changing.
We are an artists' co-op with about three dozen members, all of whom need access to square (which we love). We absolutely cannot deal with two-step verification! Please, please, please remove the notification which pops up randomly and sometimes our members forget and activate the two-step verification which causes absolute havoc. Please, we do not need or want two-step verification, and we have not activated it. We just want that notification to stop! Please!
Our pets hold a special place in our hearts for our whole lives. Please allow us the honor of celebrating their life and their memories with you by submitting a photo (or several) to our tribute wall. All proceeds go to continuing our mission of saving as many cats as we can and giving them a new furrrever home to feel safe and loved. Our operational costs often exceed $20,000 per month to cover the medical needs of our foster cats. So every pet you would like to pay tribute to, whether that is a new adoption or a rainbow bridge pet, it helps us save 1 more cat or kitten!
You can purchase your tribute square for $11 each. You may send us a custom photo of your pet, or we will use the one already in our database if it is one of our FFF cats. All proceeds help save cats from high kill shelters, abandonment, and euthanasia lists. Your tribute honors the memory of your pet as well as the life of a new one. Thank you for your donation!
Square moissanite is a modern take on the classic princess moissanite. The square cut has more facets and fire than princess cut moissanite. So, it is exceedingly bright. Because of this extreme brilliance, we think it looks best in smaller stone sizes (5.0 mm and less). If you want a stone that looks closer to a diamond in cut and appearance, princess moissanite is the better choice.
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Journey to Forever Square Foot GardenSquare foot gardening is a clever approach to growing food. It's easy to do, easy to manage, very adaptible, and it produces high yields of top-quality food.
One square foot garden unit measuring 16 sq ft (1.5 sq metres) holds an average of 130 plants and produces enough vegetables for one person. A family of four can have fresh greens in abundance throughout the growing season and beyond from only 64 sq ft of growing space (6 sq metres).
If you're already an organic gardener, you probably already have everything you'll need: space for square foot beds, fertile soil, compost, knowledge and experience. If you're a row gardener, these are permanent no-dig beds, no walking on them -- like raised beds. If you're a raised-bed grower, use raised beds. See below, Sizes and shapes.
If you have a garden, but you're no expert, or new to growing food, first choose a good site. What makes a good site? Lots of sunshine, and lots and lots of that "well-drained, rich, loamy soil" the seed packets tell you to plant your seeds in, as if the stuff grows on trees. So just choose a good place where there's enough light, we'll fix the soil.
Take up a bit of lawn if you like, the soil under a lawn is usually quite good. Use a sharp spade to cut through the turf: make vertical cuts (use your foot), slicing it up into one-foot squares, then peel the squares off like a carpet.
We broke through the cement patio, dug out lots of beach sand and added LOTS of compostYou only need to take off a couple of inches. Pile the squares in a block, grass-side down, wet thoroughly as you go, cover the top with a garbage bag to keep it moist, and it will rot down into a useful supply of well-drained, rich, loamy soil.
If you have some suitable garden space with fairly good soil you've been using for growing, use that. If all you have is some rough, hard ground, don't despair, it will do, with a bit more trouble. Put some pegs in the ground and use string to mark where the beds will be (include a 15" path space round the beds), and then cover it with a thick layer of hay, grass clippings, dead leaves, anything that'll make a good mulch. Make it at least six inches thick; if it sinks, add more. Keep it well-watered, and don't let anyone walk on it. After a few weeks the ground will be much softer. Scoop off the mulch (you can use it later in the garden or in the compost), and you can begin.
If you don't have mulch, use an old carpet, or lots of newspapers or cardboard cartons, or even garbage bags. Give the surface a good sprinkling first (not enough to puddle or muddy it). Keep checking to see the soil is moist, sprinkle again if not.
You can also use this method to prepare lawn for growing beds rather than removing the turf, though it'll take a while. Carpets work well.
You can use almost any piece of rough ground, if you have nothing else. Just use more compost if you can. If the ground is too hard for digging, build your beds with at least 6" of pure compost on top of the ground, contained by wooden sides, and start growing straight away. Keep adding more compost as you can. See below, The lazy way.
No ground at all? Got a cement patio? A balcony? A rooftop? See below, Cement.Is the soil fertile enough?No, in a word. You'll need compost, lots of it, equivalent to a 6" layer or more, especially for poor, compacted, rough ground. If you don't make compost, see our composting pages and give it a try -- it's easy and rewarding, in many different ways!
It's best to have enough compost for the job to hand when you build your beds. Second best is to use what little you have or can lay your hands on, and add more later. You can start growing plants in the meantime and dig more compost into the top few inches around the plants or in empty squares as it's available, using a trowel.
Keith bagging finished compostOne of the beauties of square foot beds is that you can treat each square foot separately.
You might be able to buy compost at a reasonable price: check with the municipality or your local agricultural extension agent, and the gardening club, if there is one. The so-called potting composts and multipurpose composts on offer in garden centres are usually not compost at all, they're potting soil mixtures: you want organic compost, made from organic wastes by "hot" composting. Vermicompost -- worm manure -- is as good or even better, but it's expensive.
An alternative is well-rotted manure, if that's really what it is: it should be black, crumbly stuff with an earthy smell, NOT the "farmyard manure" that consists of sticky lumps of trampled dung mixed with bits of straw and hay and smells bad. If you think that's good stuff, as many people will tell you, try feeding it to manure worms and see what happens (they die). Sir Albert Howard, the founder of the organic farming movement, said farmyard manure aas the great weakness of European agriculture and campaigned to reform the odious "manure pile" that produces it. He failed to reform it, but believe him!Raised beds and double-diggingUse a sharp, straight-edged, flat-bladed digging spade with a D-handle for double-diggingDouble-digging is hard work, but these beds are small, and if your soil is quite good it won't break your back. If the soil is bad, this is how to fix it once and for all. You only need to do it once, never again.
You need a digging spade and probably a digging fork (or spading fork). D-handled tools are best for this. If the cutting edge of the spade is blunt and burred, sharpen it.
Mark off where you want the beds. Leave space for 15-18-inch-wide paths. Cover the path area with boards so you don't compact the soil by trampling it too much.
Cover the whole surface of the bed with a layer of compost (up to 3" thick), and sprinkle some ground limestone over it (or garden lime if you can't get ground limestone) -- a thin sprinkling, like icing sugar on a sponge cake.
Start by digging a trench across one end of the bed a spade deep and a spade wide. Take thin slices (try half an inch), mixing in the compost as you go. Thin slices are much easier on your back and mix the soil better. Put the soil in a bucket or a wheelbarrow and dump it at the far end of the bed.
Cover the bottom of the trench with another 3" layer of compost sprinkled with lime. If the soil in the bottom of the trench is fairly soft, use the spade to loosen it, again a spade deep, mixing in the compost as much as possible. If it's too hard for a spade, use the fork instead.
Double-digging
Now dig a second trench alongside the first one (thin slices!), moving the soil into the first trench, mixing it well. Compost the bottom of the second trench, dig it or fork it, then dig a third trench, and so on right down the length of the bed. You're left with an open trench at the end, which you fill with the soil from the first trench.
Now you've loosened and conditioned the soil to a depth of about 16" and added about 6" of compost, and loosening the soil will have added some height, so the surface of the bed will be at least 6" higher than the path.The lazy wayYou can "grow" fertile soil from the top down. First build the wooden sides and ends of the beds, about 10-12 inches high. Then put compost in, straight onto the ground, to a depth of at least 6 inches, preferably more. Go right ahead and plant. You'll have great crops from the start.
Keep adding more compost on top as the surface sinks. The plant roots will steadily penetrate the soil below, worms will mysteriously appear even if there didn't seem to be any before, all doing your deep-digging for you.
Before too long the soil will be soft, deep and fertile. Just keep adding compost. There's no such thing as too much compost. 0852c4b9a8
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