Fellowship of the Things

Cut your linen into squares approximately 2" x 2".

For largesse, you're only concerned that each square is the same size. However, if you are making these buttons for a particular project: it is recommended that you cut one and stitch it to ensure you're making your buttons the right size for your project. If you want a bigger button, you will want a larger square to start. Once you've determined the specific size for your project, then you can cut all your squares.

Note: You do not need to worry about weave direction or fabric bias, so feel free to cut squares from any bits of scrap available. There is also no need to iron the scraps, wrinkled fabric will make great buttons too.

For largesse, any linen scraps will work. If you are making these buttons for a particular project, you can cut your squares from the scraps left over from your project construction to match your project perfectly.

Trim the corners of your squares so you have roughly circular shapes. If your piece is slightly oval, that is okay, it will just take a little more finessing with the needle and thread to keep round.

Thread your needle and leave the two tails of thread equally distant from the eye of the needle. A piece of thread approximately the length of your arm should be more than sufficient to stitch the button and leave a nice long tail for later application to a garment.

Stitch around the circumference of the fabric with a loose running stitch, leaving the tail of your thread at least an inch long. Your final stitch should have your needle and your tail close to each other on the same side of the fabric.

Note: You will want to use a thread the same colour as your linen. Black was used in these photos for contrast so you can see the steps clearly.

Holding the tail so it doesn't unravel your stitches, tighten your running stitch so the fabric bunches up and creates a little fabric bubble. Tighten the gather and secure with an overhand knot before trimming the excess tail.

Flatten the gather so that on one side you have a flat disk of fabric and the other side has the gather flattened in the center (pictured).

Stitch around the circumference of the fabric with a loose running stitch. You are stitching through the ridges of the gather, not through the disk and into the flat side.

Fold your disk into a new bubble with your original gather pushed into the center.

Stitch the ridges down, working across the opening from ridge to ridge.

Note: You will want to stitch the ridges tightly with each stitch. The stitches were left loose in the photo example to illustrate crossing over the opening and working around the ridges.

When you have tightened the linen fabric to form a smooth round button, secure the end of the thread by inserting the needle through a little bit of fabric and wrapping the thread around the needle twice. Then pull the needle through, the wrapped thread should form a knot against the fabric, securing the thread.

Notice the smoothness around the edge of the button in comparison to the prior photo.

DO NOT trim the thread at the button. Simply cut the thread at the needle, leaving two long pieces of thread tails trailing from the button back.

These thread tails will be used to stitch the button to the final project.

If giving as largesse, it is recommended to gift in sets of 12 to 20 buttons as period garments tend to use many buttons of this style.