This project aims to integrate technology with traditional techniques and historical patterns in fashion design through digital manufacturing. Patterns and structures of beadwork, used in making the clothing of kings and wealthy people, were developed and revived making them available to everyone through open-source technologies, enhancing their artistic and historical value, and helping to make them available to the public.
Many thanks to ADEF for hosting my project at the Residency Program: Decentralized Industries: Intersections of Textiles, Technology, and Arts. This project was supported by the Dutch Embassy in collaboration with the Waag FutureLab Foundation in Amsterdam.
The lozenge pattern, which consists of beads arranged in a diamond shape, has a special significance in ancient Egyptian history. Archaeological discoveries from the Old Kingdom have uncovered garments decorated with this pattern, leading to debates among experts. Some believe these beaded creations were only used for funerals, while others think they were also worn daily. One notable example of this pattern is royalty's beadnet dress, a stunning garment. It combined the lozenge pattern with shimmering beads, creating a captivating effect.
Mummy Shroud
Beadnet Dress I
Body of a Goddess Statue
Beadnet Dress II
The lozenge pattern originated in ancient Egypt, where the earliest examples featured tubular faience beads arranged diagonally. Smaller ring beads connected these beads, forming a beautiful diamond design. The border of the pattern was made by stringing tubular beads closely together in parallel lines. The ancient Egyptians' skill in using this pattern in different creations demonstrates their artistic talent and innovative fashion sense.
Tubular beads border in parallel lines
Lozenge - diamond design
Egyptian bead mummy net composed of bright blue glazed faience beads
Mummy shroud with crouching jackals featuring the god Anubis
Create a parametric library of accurate 3D models representing ancient Egyptian beadwork patterns in fashion.
Explore the feasibility of translating these 3D models to fabric material using 3D printing techniques.
Study the durability and wearability of these 3D-printed designs.
Revive the Egyptian heritage by applying modern technology to ancient fashion.
Preserve and celebrate the rich cultural legacy of ancient Egyptian fashion.
Provide contemporary audiences with the opportunity to engage with and appreciate historical art forms in a tangible and immersive manner.
Mimicking the lozenge pattern structure.
Adding the "Parametric Design" feature to ease structure variations.
Making the whole beading process faster and easier.
Producing an Open-Source reliable library for anyone to use.
The design process for the lozenge pattern underwent multiple stages, beginning with careful observation and progressing through iterative trial and error. Currently, we are advancing further by drawing inspiration from the rich heritage of the past.
The Lozenge pattern evokes a sense of satisfaction through its regular triangular tessellation, prompting us to envision a series of angled lines intersecting and running parallel to each other. Taking these observations into account and considering the design requirements mentioned earlier, a preliminary draft of the lozenge pattern design was created. This design incorporates a feature that enables the insertion of threads during the printing process, resulting in a cohesive beaded mesh in a single piece.
Triangular Tessellation
First Design of the Pattern
Top-View of the Pattern
Section-View of the Design
The process began by extracting the entire mesh structure from the CAD software as a single STL file. When preparing for printing, a "pause" was added before the layer where the printer starts closing the slots. This pause allows for the placement of threads inside the slots. To ensure security, the ends of the threads were carefully taped to the bed of the machine. Once the threads were in place, the printing process was resumed, and we patiently awaited the completion of the print. This step-by-step approach ensured the successful integration of the threads within the lozenge pattern, resulting in a cohesive and intricate design.
A "Pause" is added
When the printer paused
Placing Threads
First layer after threads placement
During that phase, multiple layer heights and different thread diameters and materials were experimented to discover the design constrains and best implementation thus results.
Too Weak.
Too Thin.
Extremely Flexible.
Slippery.
Strong.
Flexible.
Strong.
Tightly fit.
Flexible.
Speeding up the printing process is understandable to get faster results, but printing with a layer height of 0.3 is not recommended since the printer will mess with the shape of the beads and of course the slot tolerances.
(Recommended Layer Height: 0.2mm)
Adding a brim is not necessary during printing, the parts are stable if the bed heating is adjusted. Adding a brim will complicate postprocessing.
(Recommended Bed Temperature: 65°)
Pausing the printer in the middle of the slot printing will make it too shallow for the threads to be held in place.
(Recommended Pause Layer: Add a pause before the layer which closes the cylindrical hole slot)
Printing the mesh with its final shape was esthetic but not practical because the bigger the mesh, the larger the printing area, and more time will be required to produce a large piece. What if we made use of the free spaces in the pattern to produce more beads?
Took more of the printing area.
Larger piece requires larger printing area.
Is flexible in one direction. (More)
Took a minimal space of the printing area.
Larger piece requires more beads added.
Is flexible in both directions.
In order to successfully adapt a traditional craft to modern times, it is crucial to grasp its fundamental principles. Let's explore the step-by-step process of creating a lozenge pattern using the traditional beading technique:
First we will get two wires connected at a common point.
We will add the rhombus-side beads.
We will add a connecting bead to close the shape and secure the structure.
Upon closer examination, you will notice that the wires do not overlap. Instead, they pass through the middle bead in a parallel manner.
Traditional Beading Process Sample
Illustration of Wires Paths
By translating this input into the CAD model, we were able to generate a new design for the middle bead. This redesigned middle bead serves the purpose of simplifying and expediting the thread insertion process. With its improved design, threading becomes more convenient and time-efficient. The updated middle bead design enhances the overall efficiency of the crafting process, enabling smoother integration of threads.
Secures the threads.
Time Consuming (4x2 piece took 19m25s to insert threads).
Extending a piece is a hard process to keep track of (Threads follow a 45° parallel path).
Secures the threads.
Time Efficient (4x3 piece took 12m15s to insert threads).
Allows Extensions (Threads follow a straight parallel path).
The assembly process of the final piece took two different approaches. Initially, the idea was to create several printed patches with a lozenge pattern and then tie them together using the leftover threads. However, this method didn't turn out to be visually appealing or practical for a wearable piece because it would have resulted in visible seam lines.
But then, the internal structure of the middle bead was modified. This allowed for extensions to be added to an already completed section of the piece. The extensions were carefully attached using the extra threads, and new threads were introduced to connect the new beaded structure. This approach resulted in a seamless and consistent overall shape for the final piece.
Knotted Pieces
The Shoulder Strap and its Extension
Embedding the Extension-Piece Threads
Final Piece