Download Transit Nikon _VERIFIED

"Footage of an International Space Station solar transit, including slow motion replays, a composite trail of the frames, close-ups, and a stacked and averaged version to reduce noise and turbulence. This solar transit was taken at 12:35 UTC on April 21, 2019 in the UK with a Nikon P1000 and Solomare Solar Filter with Baader film."

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Download Transit Nikon

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I do not have solar filter and I don't have time to buy as transit will be on 9th May 2016. I'm wondering if I can use my UV and neutral density filter to shoot Mercury transit when sun is pretty much dim (around 6:30PM) with help of DSLR display. Will this be ok?

When photographing events such as transits and eclipses, the camera is most likely pointed at and focused on the sun for at least several minutes. The sun's intense light concentrated to some degree or another in multiple places in the lens. These places can become hotspots in the lens and damage glass elements, adhesives, etc., even before the aperture.

Now, you mention you will be observing the transit around 6:30pm. Depending on your longitude, the sun will be 15-20 or so above the horizon. This will help reduce the amount of light reduction by a couple stops at most.

Having said the above, you will find examples on this site and others of great pictures of the sun with a Venus transit or sunspots, taken with something like a 10 stop ND at /22 or so. I think every one of these pictures should have a "Don't try this at home" caption.

I have finally managed to get an ISS moon transit this morning. Not the highest resolution as I had to use my Nikon D3200 to fit the full moon and I even missed some at the bottom as ISS was about to pass. I am still very happy to have got it. 8" Dob, manual, Nikon D3200 iso 400 and 1/4000s.

Of course! I should have realised that, as the D3200 can only manage about 4 frames per second in still mode and the transit time is normally around 0.5 seconds, so you'd have got about 2 frames at most. I really must blow the cobwebs off my ASI 178MM and start shooting videos again.

I got it myself a couple of years ago but interestingly the ISS appeared as a bright spot back then. I guess it's illumination by the Sun caused it to be brighter than the lunar surface against which it appeared to transit ?

This is a huge transition for me! The Nikon Zoom lens that I have been using is 28-300 mm. My new camera can zoom 3000 mm. I've seen a photo this camera took of the rings on Saturn...now that's amazing. Here's a video of this: www.youtube.com/watch?v=BX8JZVtSljM

After you follow Mike's advice, remember to leave the transit unlocked in it's case when transporting it. This will help keep the level calibrated. I learned this the hard way with mine which I had to "send off to be calibrated." ;-}

*Phil,I have adjusted my berger a couple of times and it is no big deal. Same with an ancient craftsman. Both those "transits", builder's levels really, have a small hole on the adjuster into which a 4d finish nail will fit. There will be a spring between the fluid vial and the adjusting nut. It is a good idea to adjust out too far and then take up the backlash (screw slop) by adjusting into the spring tension. It is simply a matter of trial and error, going back and forth between the 4 base leveling screws, and the vial adjusting screw, to get the bubble to level. Once you can get the bubble to level, check out the thing by shooting a mark on a tree or something and stringing a long water level to another tree behind you and twice as far away as the first tree in front of you. This will tell you if the scope is on the same plane as the bubble. If not, you will have to adjust the position of the locking mechanism and go back and forth between it and the vial adjustment. It sounds a lot more complicated than it really is, and the chances are good that it is the vial which is out. Keep your bubbles in your drink and out of your water level. Good luck,Clampman

*Phil, If you want to play around, here is an easy way to do it. Go find a relatively flat, level surface such as a large parking lot. Mark two locations on the surface at least 100' apart. Set the transit up over one point and measure the distance from the point on the ground to the center of your eyepiece. Take a shot on the other point and record the difference in elevation. Now reverse the proceedure and see if the difference in elevation between the two points is the same when the setups are reversed. If they are not, simply adjust the level until you read 1/2 the difference between the two on the rod you are shooting at and your level will be adjusted. This is an old surveyors method that is almost foolproof unless there's something radically wrong with your level.

*Most transits and levels come with instructions on making adjustments. GLaLonde uses a method that I have seen before. I have a Gurley Instument that required adjustment. It went like this.Level the base plate as best you can in both directions. Line up the bubble vile between two scews and level. Rotate 180 degrees and adjust screws on the bubble vile to correct half of the error that the bubble was out. Rotate 180 degrees (back to original position and relevel. Rotate 180 degrees again. If bubble isn't level, make another correction to bubble vile. This procedure should only take an iteration or two. It's easier to do than to explain. Most surveyors know how and do make these adjustments from time to time.

In most of the Western hemisphere, the transit stretches from morning until afternoon. In the Eastern hemisphere, it spans the afternoon. To find the specific times in your time zone, you will need to convert from GMT.

Mercury is smaller than Venus and farther from Earth. While some people were able to see the Venus transit even without a telescope, Mercury is decidedly more difficult to photograph. This will prove especially true if there are pronounced sunspots during the transit, some of which may be the same size or shape as Mercury.

A tripod is almost a necessity, too. At such long focal lengths, the blur from handholding the camera will rob significant sharpness from your photographs. Also, the transit lasts so long that your arms will get tired very early from the weight of a supertelephoto.

Since Mercury is so small compared to the Sun, it may not be possible to distinguish it from a sunspot in a single image. To fix this, you may choose to take several photographs and layer them in Photoshop after the transit. Align the images, then blend them so that Mercury appears several times in succession across the Sun. The photograph below shows what I mean:

Things got much more interesting once I found and removed the transit

lock screw on the underside of the unit (there is another one in the

back panel).

NikonScan still would not recognize the device. BUT -Hamrick VueScan

DOES see it, and it runs. I got one fuzzy preview image from a slide,

everything else is a fuzzy wash. I am suspecting the leadscrew drive

might be jammed at end of travel (I can now see the LEDS illuminating

the front edge of my slide, but it never "scans").

An inserted transit screw WILL cause a POST failure (fast blinking).Now that both screws are removed, how does the unit behave on power up?Note, over 80% of Nikon scanners sold online are defective. Most don't

work, and of those that do, most have dirty optics and need cleaning

(not withstanding that they will produce a scan).Please see:

=110496133091Due to another commitment, I am not accepting additional repairs, but I

might make an exception. Please contact me by E-mail (Wat...@neo.rr.com)Suggestion that might get it working: Take off the covers (4 screws)

and the front plastic fascia (snap at the top). The main stepper motor

is below the film adapter opening. It's shaft is slotted. Using a

screwdriver, turn it counterclockwise if the unit is full forward, or

clockwise if it's full back. Also, "rock" the optical block (the large

black plastic piece with the chrome steel rails on it) forward and back

(alternately press down on the optical block at the front, then the

back). Turn it on and see if it now works (you can do this without

reinstalling the front fascia or covers, but keep your hands out of the

power supply (the rear 1/3 of the scanner).Note that, even if it superficially works, it probably still needs