Whatever the case, choosing the right bass string is really all about personal preference. Below I included a chart to help you choose the right strings based on the genre of music that you will be playing.

This is a great acticle which I would reccomend others to read. Since it is so good, I would like to offer my little additon. I am the loony that swears by nylon strings. They have a small cult following in jazz, rockabilly and country for their very smooth, mellow, dark tone that can mimick an upright. They are soft on your fingers, easier to bend/choke and never corrode. I have experimented using them beyond their usuall tonal area with general sucsess, but you really have to squeeze punch out of them with your tone settings and hardware.


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Boiling does work. However, eventually you will need to replace the strings because they get torn up where they are wound to the tuning heads. Can someone recommend a good sounding, long-lasting string for me? I have the DR Coated strings and the bright sounding tone only lasts about 2 weeks. (I play 1-2+ hours a day). I need something cheap, that sounds good for slapping and popping and lasts at least a month.

I would highly recommend GHS bass boomers for the tone you are after. They are brighter strings and seem to be very durable, and for the price, you CANNOT beat them. Made in the USA (actually in my home state of MI) and you can get a pair for about $18-25 if you shop around.

Totally wrong on the stainless steel analysis. Stainless strings have a rougher feel than Nickel, not smoother and you get more finger noise, not less. They are brighter than Nickel, eat frets more quickly and you can sometimes hear the string clicking against the frets.

A blog reader emailed me recently to ask how often I change my strings. The answer is whenever they start sounding dull, which for my quantity of playing (7 to 14 hours per week) is anywhere from 4 to 8 times a year. I should probably do it a bit more often but I have some Old Yankee in me so I tend to be on the frugal side. Also, do not change your strings on Saturday for a Sunday service. Give them at least a few days to stretch out.

Hey, great aritcle again! Just a few comments. Most guitars are set up for a certain string gage. When you change them you should keep use that gage. If you use a lighter gage it will likely cause some rattling. You can have your Luthier set your guitar up for a light gage or the gage you prefer. I have found it is worth it to get a professional to set up your guitar at least once. New guitars are NOT always set up for the lowest action/best sound. In fact they rarely are.

Secondly I find that the style of your playing makes as big a difference in regard to the best gage for your strings as the instrument itself. I play in a wide variety of styles but in Saturday night jam sessions we sometimes do some pretty intense rifts. If your attack is intense you will go through a ton of extra light strings, snapping them off left and right. I prefer medium light on my Strat, light on my Taylor accoustic, and medium on my Dean 12 string. Any lighter on my 12 string and I start snapping off the super skinny g string.

The same way a P-bass with flatwounds is the old school R&B funk vibe - a modern, new-strings, high fidelity 5-string sound is perfect to match the sound people are used to hearing when they hear recorded artists in the CC/Worship music genre.

Should you read online reviews? Online reviews have some value for learning. Keep in mind that reviews are rarely written by an expert. Even comments among the best bassists of all time may differ. The bottom line is you have to find what works for you.

All bass strings have a core wire which has another wire tightly wrapped around it. The core wire is either round or hexagonal. The external wire is round nickel or stainless steel wire. Some external windings (wire wraps) have coatings

There are sound and tone differences between round core and hex core. Generally, round-core strings have a more rounded bottom and softer highs, whereas hex-core strings have a brighter tone. Hex-core strings are believed to offer improved tuning stability over round-core strings.

Helpful Tip: Do you want to promote optimal tuning stability when installing new bass strings? Simply make a very short 90-degree bend at the point where you cut the string. This mitigates slippage between the core and the outer wraps.

Flatwound strings are made with flat outside wire covering the inner wire core. By comparison, flatwound strings deliver a tone that is darker and warmer than roundwounds. When sliding your fretting hand, flatwound strings feel very smooth. With flatwound strings, there is virtually no noise when sliding your hand over the strings.

One way to find strings that you like is to try the strings that are preferred for the types of music you play. Obviously, there is a wide range of opinions on strings and a number of ways to manage tone. However, identifying the most popular strings for what you play can shorten your search. The following suggestions are based on feedback from bass players in the United States. The recommendations in this list are not influenced by bass strings manufacturers, distributors, dealers, or retail stores.

If you want to do something good with your used strings, send them to Restrung Jewelry in New Orleans. Contact them via email and they will send you a self-addressed, postage paid envelope for you to mail them your strings.

There are a few key factors to keep in mind while searching for a good set of bass guitar strings. Before you begin to play, you need to think about your personal playing style, the tone you want to achieve, and the age and condition of your bass.

A number of brands now have sets catering for drop tunings and extended range guitars, but Dunlop says these Heavy Core nickel-wrapped steel strings have the core-to-wrap ratio to rule them all, one that maintains a comfortable and consistent tension in lower tunings.

Here are a few of the parts I have written over the years. As you can see, the selection is limited to the instruments I regularly use (trumpet and strings), but parts could easily be adapted to other similarly pitched instruments as well. Trumpet parts are in Bb unless otherwise noted.

As many years ago David played his harp, today I imagine that my guitar is a 6-string harp. I express my love to the Father, to Jesus with my heart, playing guitar, making music through the Holy Spirit. It's a honor for me to share freely with you my heart, my personal times of instrumental worship, prophetic music and anointed soaking prayer. The Lord bless you and keep you! Free Istrumental worship for you!

How do you handle the purchase of instruments, equipment, and supplies for your musicians? Does the church purchase all instruments, some instruments, or no instruments? What about supplies (e.g. guitar strings, picks, drumsticks, batteries, reeds, etc.)? Or effects pedals, percussion pieces, etc.?

Our electric players play different rigs but in the new building that might change. We will probably buy a Badger head or a Naylor and have everybody run through it though they can supplement their own pedals. Our keys are stock as well though one player adds a Yamaha Motif to the mix.

Unlike larger churches where there are many musicians, we tend to be short on players. To this end, we usually find it beneficial to encourage and develop a personal interest in music, and let them exercise that interest through serving in Worship Ministry. This means that for smaller personal instruments such as an acoustic or bass, the players should provide their own. Larger instruments such as the grand and the kit the church purchased. This also allows us to foster interest at an early age, while they are still constrained by monetary restrictions.

I like your approach. I have spent a lot of time in the church at various stages in my life playing very consistently for the church. They always expected me to have my own instruments and bring my own equipment, but since I was in high school or college most of the time when playing, they would always be willing to give me batteries or let me borrow certain pieces of equipment. However, I was a trusted part of the church and when other people cam along and started to use some of the equipment, there was much damage caused and much wear and tear on the instruments. Therefore, the church had to use much discretion and discernment about who to let use what. People take better care of what is theirs, that is a fact. But there were plenty of times when my church blessed me and allowed me to use certain pieces of equipment, but only after building rapport.

I have set up the majority of my guitars since I was a teenager. If there is something more technical such as nut filing, fret leveling, or re-drilling a bridge location, I will have someone more experienced take care of it. However, the majority elements of the foundation of a setup are extremely simple and should be done regularly.

To me, the most basic setup process is a matter of truss rod, action, pickup, and intonation adjustments. I like to clean my frets, condition my fretboard and lubricate the nut, but those are all extras.

Action is how high the strings are off the fretboard and is adjusted through raising or lowering the bridge/saddles (rarely adjusting the nut). This is probably the greatest factor for playability. It should be done after adjusting the relief.

This is a significant tone shaper. Raising your pickups closer to the strings will emphasize lower or higher frequencies relatively and compress your signal a bit more (giving you more initial pick response as well). Pulling them back a bit will make pickups sound more open and less compressed.

I usually find general recommendations from the pickup manufacturer online, start there, and adjust them to my tastes. I like my bridge and neck to be fairly balanced in output and tonality. I will frequently lower the bass side of the neck to reduce mud as well as lower the treble side of the bridge pickup to reduce harshness. 152ee80cbc

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