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Mixed length orders are accepted. Each spoke has a free nipple included. Material: Sandvik T302 Stainless Steel. Head: J-bend or Straight. Straight:217,221,225,230,232,243,245,249,251,253,255,259,261,265,267,268,270,272,275,278,280,282,285,290,304.

CX rays are good spokes, but very thin and flexible as you have noticed. They are roughly equivalent to a flattened (bladed) Dt Swiss revolution, which is 1.5mm round in the centre and 2mm at each end. They weigh about 4.4g each.

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The step up from that is something like a Dt Competition race, 1.6mm in the centre, weighs about 4.9g per spoke. The the standard Dt Comp spoke, 1.8mm in the centre, 5.9g per spoke. Then a straight gauge 2.0mm spoke like the Dt champion weighs about 6.8g per spoke.

There are a confusing amount of different spokes currently available on the market. These differ not only by their length and diameter, but also more importantly by the differences in the spoke bend at the head. To accomplish the optimal longevity of both the hub flange, the spoke itself and the entire wheel, the spoke bend dimensions must be harmonized with both the hub flange and the spoke holes. It is not sufficient enough to simply choose a spoke according to its length and diameter (eg. 2.0-256mm), the spoke bend itself must additionally be harmonized with the spoke hole so that the spoke can find its optimal sit within the spoke holes of the hub flange.

Because retrofit spokes for the Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 with the required head length of 2.9mm are only available in 2.0mm diameter, we generally recommend the use of DD 2.0/1.8/2.0mm spokes for lacing SPEEDHUB wheels.

If the spoke bend is too long and/or the diameter of the spoke at this bend be too small, then this will result in the spoke having an amount of axial play after the wheel has been trued. The spoke bend can now be bent open, resulting in a possible spoke failure.

If the spoke bend is too short and/or the diameter of the spoke at the bend be too large, then the hub flange could become slightly deformed as the spokes are threaded into the hub shell or as the spokes are tensioned. The damage caused here could possibly lead to a flange breakage.

As the required spoke head length of 2.9mm is currently only available on 2.0/1.8/2.0mm spokes, we generally advise the use of DD spokes of this size. Bicycle manufacturers who utilise thick spokes with an oversized head diameter when lacing SPEEDHUB wheels, must guarantee the correct length of each spoke head (3.7mm). The spokes should then be tensioned to a minimum of 1000N measured with an inflated tire or 1300N without tire.

Thread a spoke from outside through the hub flange of the hub cap side so that the spoke head finds its seat within the countersink of the spoke hole. This should be possible without requiring any noticeable force. Hold the hub so that the flanges are horizontal and the sprocket side faces upwards. The spoke should be facing radially outwards. The threaded end of the spoke should now find itself within the shaded area shown on the diagram below. Fig. b.

a) Spoke bend is too short and/or the spoke bend diameter is too large.

b) Spoke bend and spoke bend diameter are correct.

c) Spoke bend is too long and/or the spoke bend diameter is too small.

Repeat this process. This time thread the spoke from the inside, outwards through the spoke flange on the sprocket side of the hub. Again, the spoke head should be seated within the countersink of the spoke hole and this without requiring a noticeable amount of force. Hold the hub so that the flanges are horizontal with the spoke facing radially outwards. The threaded end of the spoke should now find itself within the shaded area shown on the diagram below. Fig. e.

d) Spoke bend is too short and/or the spoke bend diameter is too large.

e) Spoke bend and spoke bend diameter are correct.

f) Spoke bend is too long and/or the spoke bend diameter is too small.

- Measure the head height K of the spoke nipples that ar e intended for use.

- Measure the spoke length S from beginning of the thread to the inside of the 90 bend.

- Thread a spoke through the rim and screw the nipple onto this so that the end of the spoke is level with the head of the spoke nipple.

- Place a second spoke through the spoke hole of the opposing side of the rim and screw the nipple onto this spokein the same way.

- Pull these two spokes together and measure the distance X.

On wheel sizes 26" and 28" the wheel must always be laced in a two cross pattern. Therefore, the table above shows the spoke lengths for a two cross lacing pattern. On wheel sizes 24" and under, the spokes must only be laced in a one cross lacing pattern. For this reason, the table above shows the spoke lengths for a one cross lacing pattern.

A constantly updated list of spoke lengths can be found on the internet under www.rohloff.de. A spoke length calculator can also be found on our homepage to help work out other correct lengths of spokes that may be required (www.rohloff.de/en/technical/speedhub/spoke_lengths/index.html).

Nipple eyelets are currently being reduced in size to save as much heavy steel as possible in the construction. In cases such as these, the nipple is however hindered from aligning itself correctly for lacing large flange hubs and this results in a small kink in the spoke where it joins the nipple. This will lead to premature spoke failures at the kink.

I'm building a rear wheel for the first time. I have purchased the rim and hub and am now sourcing the spokes. I put the measurements into an online spoke calculator (on wheelpro.co.uk) and it estimated 295mm and 293mm for the right and left side respectively.

This topic is really poorly understood. Anyone who ever who tells you it's fine to just round up or round off when choosing spoke lengths hasn't been through the disaster scenarios that can be caused by it, or perhaps doesn't remember because the experience is too painful and embarrassing. Rounding up can cause you to run out of threaded length before the spokes are fully tensioned. Always round down unless you can test and measure the spokes in question before building to avoid running out of threaded length or poking the tube. If you have to order spokes, just round down. If your calculated optimal length is accurate (and there's no reason it shouldn't be) and you must round down to the next even number from there (as in the 292 in your example), nothing meaningful will ever be lost in terms of durability from that extra 1.99mm max.

What gets overlooked in this discussion is that there are whole brands/models of spoke, or spoke/nipple combinations, that offer zero ability for the spoke to protrude past the top of the nipple. They don't have the threaded length to do it. So rounding up walks you right into the failure situation of running out of thread and having to either start over or accept an untrueable wheel with bad tension. Various Wheelsmith bags I've used, for example, have been like this, with Wheelsmith nipples.

Contemporary DT Champions and Competitions, the most commonly encountered premium spokes, avoid this occurrence by having some superfluous/generous threaded length. Some other spoke brands and models do not, and give you no leeway for the spoke to be long. And single wall builds naturally have no such leeway.

Some point out that having aluminum nipples miss more than 1mm or so of engagement introduces some risk of the nipple breaking. That's probably true and I recommend shooting for the best possible thread engagement on aluminum nipples, which for practical purposes on conventional nipples is between the base of the screwdriver slot and the top. However, you'll never know if that's what caused it, because al nipples break anyway, especially for 2mm spoke ends. (Al nipples for 1.8s are far less prone to breaking because of the extra material.)

Your calculation must be accurate. You don't want to miss more thread engagement than around 2mm from perfect. Never use a calculator where you can't verify that the math it's doing is the pure classic spoke length formula. Some calculators try to invisibly factor in estimates of spoke stretch and rim compression, which you should do manually based on the parts you're using. (Spoke gauges differ in stretch, the amount of tension also causes it to differ, and the stoutness/cross-sectional area of rims make them differ in compression.) Because it's an Excel spreadsheet and all its formulas are right out in the open, Spocalc is my preference. And always measure the hub and rim yourself. It seems pedantic, but I promise that if you build enough wheels, or are ever working for a wheel producer and are tasked with doing spoke calculations and there's never time to do test runs of anything (this was my situation that taught me good spoke calculation habits), you'll find all this necessary to have consistently good results.

If you have to order the hub/rim along with the spokes (particularly the rim, because manufacturer list measurements for hubs are usually very accurate), just take vendor/manufacturer listed measurements on faith for calculation purposes, but measure yourself once you do have everything to make sure what you're about to do is going to work. Second-guess published ERDs early and often.

Wheelbuilding texts almost never remember to tell you that longer length nipples usually have more threads, and you need to compensate for this to avoid bottoming out the threads on the spoke. Most handbuilt wheels are done with 12mm nipples, but if you ever use 14s or especially 16s, you'll find the rim's ERD is effectively a few millimeters smaller. Or, in other words, ERD is usually calculated as the diameter of the circle formed by the tip of the spokes in a state of optimal thread engagement. Usually that's synonymous with the tip of the spoke being just about flush with the top of the nipple, somewhere between the bottom of the screwdriver slot and the top. 12mm nipples can all handle that, but most of the time if you thread an aftermarket/handbuilding-worthy/premium (however you want to say it) spoke into a 16, you'll find it runs out of thread and bottoms out before it reaches the top. 006ab0faaa