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Seeing as how it is Sriracha week here at Bon Appetit, it seems like high time to leave the safety of our English etymology waters and plunge face-first into the hot source of the word "Sriracha" itself.

As you might have learned in our post earlier this week about the original Sriracha (the kind they use on their food in Thailand), the sauce with the rooster on the bottle is just one variety of the spicy stuff, and the word "sriracha" is really a generic term, like "ketchup," or, if you're being weird, "catsup." The name comes from the seaside province in Thailand called Si Racha, where it was invented, and if I were a lazier etymology columnist, we could end things right there. Named after a town! Like Worcestershire sauce. Doesn't get simpler than that.

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Which means that Sriracha sauce, if you're being hyper-literal about it, could be called the "Sauce of the Glorious Ruler!" (Though it technically just means "sauce from a town called Si Racha.") Not bad for four bucks.

Sriraja Panich is the brand name of one of two Sriracha sauces created by Saowanit Trikityanukul's family. The family sold the brand to Thaitheparos, Thailand's leading sauce company, in the 1980s. The brand has struggled to gain a foothold in the U.S., where the Huy Fong Rooster brand of Sriracha, created by Vietnamese-American David Tran, reigns supreme. Michael Sullivan/for NPR hide caption

Sriracha sauce. It's everywhere. Even beer and donuts. The fiery chili paste concocted by Vietnamese-American immigrant David Tran has conquered the American market and imagination in the past decade.

I decided to go to the source to get the dirt on the sauce, and sat down with 71-year-old Saowanit Trikityanukul. Her grandmother was making Sriracha sauce when David Tran was still a baby, in what was then South Vietnam.

"He saw an opportunity and made his own business," she says. She doesn't begrudge him his success, but "why do they have to use our name? "Champagne is one kind of drink. Sriracha is one kind of sauce."

Gimsua Timkrajang, shown seated in this undated photo, was the first to make Sriracha sauce, according to his great-granddaughter. The sauce gets its name from Si Racha, the family's seaside hometown in Thailand. Michael Sullivan/for NPR hide caption

I test her theory at a nearby restaurant where the lunchtime crowd is digging into their food. They seem surprised to learn there's an American Sriracha. Tanpatha Punsawat is first on the spoon. "It's hot," she says carefully. "Very hot."

"You occasionally run into some people who have very strong views about the Rooster brand not being the original Thai Sriracha, mostly the kind of angry Facebook trolls you would expect, " Booth says. "But, given the love of spicy sauces and spicy foods in Thailand, I think there's more than enough room to incorporate a new player in the market."

Leading Thai manufacturer Thaitheparos, which bought the Sriraja Panich brand from Saowanit Trikityanukul's family over 40 years ago, knows about slow starts. It has been exporting their Sriracha to the U.S. for more than a decade. It hasn't been pretty.

"We try to tell people we're the original Sriracha from Thailand," says Varanya Winyarat, deputy managing director of Thaitheparos. "But when Americans try Sriracha sauce, they try the Vietnamese-American one first, so they think the taste should be like that."

But she admits David Tran's Rooster brand has already crushed her hopes of conquering the U.S. market. But Varanya and export manager Paweena Kingpad say world Sriracha domination may still be in sight because of strong sales in another global Sriracha superpower: China.

Si Racha, (Siracha, Sri Racha or Sriracha), Chonburi Province. Si Racha district is about one hour's drive from Bangkok. Si Racha's port and nearby Laem Chabang, the largest port in the country serving the eastern seaboard industrial provinces. Pattaya is 30 km south. 10 km north of Si Racha is Bang Saen, a seaside resort popular with locals. Chonburi Province is one of the more industrialised provinces of Thailand, although most of the province is hilly, agricultural plantations. 2351a5e196