Download Problem No Dey Finish

When programming code with the help of Chat GPT, it is very problematic because missed characters or alterations on the code will ruin its functionality. It is very hard to get Chat GPT to continue from the exact line the code was cut short on. It will alter the code, it is not able to start from where it left off and if it does it will alter the code or combine it with previous iterations. It is VERY hard to work through this limitation. It would be great if it could export .txt or if there was an easy and orderly way for it to break up its answer in chunks without losing track or altering the data. PLEASE HELP US!

Usually you can get it to continue by just typing a single space and then enter. Or finished the word if it was cut mid-way. If it was writing code, well, rip. You may be able to ask it to continue and re-wrap the code?

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Well, as people above say, you can try asking it to continue code, and Ive tried to ask to continue from where it stopped with different wordings, but almost sure it will not continue the same code correctly. I also tried to ask the code in box shunks with maximum 50 lines (it appears to always fail at around 70 lines for me). He does it fine, but the next shunk also does not fit correctly to the first one. Even if I ask for it to make shunks and stop it also starts failing again. This is non-sense. Developers were able to make the best IA chat ever but they do not fix a chat length problem? It seems obvious it is a marketing strategy by forcing a limitation to make people pay for the complete stable version.

First irony of lawyer burnout? It tends to affect good lawyers. The old pie-eating contest paradox (you know, the prize is more pie!) comes into play: The better you are, the more they use you. The more they use you, the more they keep moving the finish line so they can keep using you more.

I am having some issues with a part that I printed in PLA before many times without issues. It's been a while since I printed it, and using the same file in Octoprint I get a very different result. The top layer is very rough and has a very mat/dull finish. What could be causing this? The old print is very smooth and has a very even glossy finish.

What I see today from Big Finish doesn't feel the same. Instead of picking up on these eras and characters that weren't finished and could do so much more, it rather feels like they're shoving more, superfluous content where it doesn't need to be. I don't want more Tom Baker as Four in the TARDIS with K9 and Romana. I know there's already seasons and seasons of that in the actual show. I haven't seen all of Classic Who, I doubt many really have, so why would I listen to a story trying it's hardest to emulate some other stories from 40 years ago? Why wouldn't I just go watch that original content?

Normally a glossy finish is due to a hotter print temperature, so that makes me think the hotend on the fourth printer is not getting as hot, even though the temperature settings are the same across all the printers.

Unfortunately I spoke too soon about this. I moved the hotend (nozzle, thermistor, heating element, fan) from the problematic P1P (printer 1) to another P1P (printer 2) and at first I thought the issue traveled with the hotend. But subsequent prints make it clear that the problem stayed with printer 1 and did NOT move with the hotend.

This did help considerably with the matte vs glossy finish, but I do get a little more stringing now. Also, increasing the nozzle temp by 10C puts me at 265C for PETG. That does seem on the higher end.

I have had this problem since Friday, and it has wrecked my scheduling. There is an extra day being added to all durations when using the SF dependency. I have 1000's of cells now showing incorrect dates since this bug started at the end of last week. Finish-Finish (FF) also exhibits this problem, but Start-Start (SS) and Finish-Start (FS) seem to work properly.

I made a new sheet with a very simple layout to see if it reproduces the problem, and it does.. see attached pic. I am now going on 4 days without a response from support. I find it odd no other complaints are surfacing...

I had the same problem last Friday, and I sent a ticket to Smartsheet with the case; they answered me the next day, but the explanation did not solve my problem; I also disagreed with their description because I did not have another sheet open, they have a problem on their platform. The solution I had was to create a new sheet; I spent Saturday doing this; I exported my sheet to Excel; I had to delete all the predecessors from the Excel file because when importing the information, the problem continued, so I only imported the task list, duration, start day and end day, then copy and paste the predecessors into my new sheet from the original sheet.

Group "d" should complete before group "a" starts, and group "e" should finish when "a" finishes but it doesn't. In both cases, it seems like the group is placed according only to the length of the first task in the group.

Trying to update the dropbox app via the "Update to the latest version" banner in the menu bar. The process always interrupts, with the message "Couldn't Update Dropbox: Let your files finish syncing, then try again." I've interrupted syncing for the day in the dropdown, but still get the error message, with no other options beyond backing out of the installer.

I do suspect something Dropbox-related is causing my system to hang at inopportune moments (like while I'm using Adobe Audition to record and edit audio), so I've taken to pausing syncing while working, which has so far solved the hanging (pinwheel of death) issue. I was hoping the update to the new version would solve these issues, but alas, it's simply causing more problems.

I tried searching these forums with no luck. What I am trying to do is scan in old photos that have a matte finish. When scanned in the photos have the matte texture all over the photo and it is very very obvious in photoshop. Does anyone know how to get rid of this texture. Hope I have described the problem OK.

Bert D

Its the textured surface that is the problem not the matte finish. There are a few approaches that can help. I think that if your scanner has a descreening filter that may help. Some noise reduction may help as well but applying a Surface Blur and playing with the Radius and the Threshold should give you some improvement. You can also try a Smart Sharpen afterwards or an Edge Sharpening. The other tool that sometimes helps is Polaroid Dust and Scratch Remover. Try them and see what works for you - hope it helps.

Claude

You could also add Ruler guide lines (shortest side) and then Ctrl+T (Transform Tool)/ Distort. Snap the larger sides to the guide lines and use the middle adjustment points to finish the perspective. The image will be a bit smaller but you will not be "stretching" pixels.

My background - I only work with oil finishes. Have been for 10 years.

Only my opinion, but you started by adding oil to a naturally-oily wood and didn't allow sufficient time for curing.

Still, if you'd have gone to 800 grit then 1000 grit for the finish, I believe you would've gotten the results you were aiming for. Then, spray on a shellac finish (2 coats) to seal it.

I recommend spraying because sanding shellac heats and blends the natural oil with the Watco causing the blotching and allowing the oil to stay viscous. I found out the hard way, cost me a bundle on a rosewood project.

Mikaol

Hard to tell without being there but, to my eye, it looks like the shellac did not level well and the "blotches" are actually low areas in the shellac that were only minimally touched when you rubbed with the steel wool.

I think the best thing you can do is strip off everything and start over. Once all of the finish is off, sand by hand to bare wood with a flat block making sure the wood surface is level and smooth to at least 180 grit. Then add a coat of Watco if that is what you like. Let it cure for a couple of days and then apply 2-3 coats of oil based polyurethane; semi-gloss or satin. You don't need or want the shellac. The poly will adhere just fine without it. Once the poly is dry 2-3 days, polish with 1000-2000 wet/dry and apply a coat of paste wax. Done.

Having said all that, with walnut, I don't think that the Watco adds any benefit if you use polyurethane. The poly alone will darken and enhance the grain and color. If you want to darken it further or add some warmth to the existing color, just use a good stain of your preference.

Thanks to everyone here for helpful advice. I think I've probably got a problem generally defined by several of you. I suspect that the Watco didn't properly cure before the shellac coat and that I didn't lay on enough shellac to completely cover the more opened pore sections of the wood.

You have been using almost all finishing products on top of each other and using different abrasives to apply them. If I was to troubleshoot the problem I would be at a loss as there are so many variables. My advice, keep it simple and for a desired end result, aim first at the product(s) and methods that are proven, I do not think that the recipie you ended with exists.

Hello, i am new to the BlueROV2. I just completed my build heavy version. Everything is working as normal, but i noticed that the camera feed to my notebook has some on off problem as shown in the my youtube clip. Please advise.

3. Update scanner driver: as earlier indicated, I have an updated scanner driver on my PC (downloaded it from Xerox). But the instructions start with "Open a web browser and enter the device's IP address" which is the exact problem I'm trying to solve--can't get to machine through web browser. Also, I have the driver on a USB stick but when inserting that into the WC6515, I get nothing except WC6515 asking me if I need to scan something from it. e24fc04721