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My second order with more mega beautiful colours. Valentine crush is also beautiful! I've been wearing it for 9 days now and once again only remove it because I'm excited to see the next colour ?.
Absolutely recommended to buy! ?
Download My Valentine Crush
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I was skeptical at first whether it actually works as easily as in the videos on Instagram and Facebook. I ordered the set and was positively surprised by the first impression. The packaging itself looks very high quality. Of course, I tried it out right away. I have extended my natural nails with UV gel and "painted" with the Doonails set For the first attempt it has not become bad, but I think here practice makes a lot out. On some nails have "bubbles" or something formed, which then caused bumps. But I am confident that it works better next time. But what I find really really bad is the supplied nail file. The is black, relatively coarse, and leaves a black file dust. Despite abbrsten with the enclosed brush / brush and abcleanern with zelette, appears after the first Powderschicht a black veil. I would strongly recommend to use another file to save trouble. The black veil messes up the entire nail design.
It's sure to be love at first sight! The large 8" wide, ruffled and textured, traffic-stopping bright red flowers with a purplish eye are set against a backdrop of deep green, dark bronze-tinged foliage. SUMMERIFIC Valentine's Crush Perennial or Hardy Hibiscus is a vigorous clump-forming perennial that develops into a full, rounded, initially upright growing, well-branched plant with exceptional flower power. Like most other Walter's Gardens introductions, SUMMERIFIC Valentine's Crush is an indeterminate plant producing flowers from the top to the bottom of the plants creating an amazing summer into fall display in the garden and landscape. Provide a full to mostly sunny location in moist to average moist to wet, moderately fertile soils. Caterpillar host: Gray hairstreak. Images courtesy of Walter's Gardens, Inc., all rights reserved.
The huge flowers and clump forming habit of the 'Hardy Hibiscus' make them excellent for adding bold summer color to the perennial garden and landscape. You can also use them as the center piece for large container gardens, in bog gardens, at the edges of ponds, or in any other sunny and consistently moist site. For detailed instructions on growing Hardy Hibiscus please see our Growing Guide.
The Perennial Hibiscus that we enjoy today were all bred using genetics from our US native species: Hibiscus moscheutos, H. grandiflorus, H. coccineus, H. dasycalyx, H. laevis and possibly others. Like the parent species, they are all slow to emerge in spring and wait for the signal of warmer soil temperatures before they begin to show themselves often leading the impatient gardener (myself included) to think that they are ready for the compost heap. These Perennial Hibiscus are simply smart enough to know to wait until all danger of frost has passed before raising their tender stems above the soil line.
These durable and hardy Hibiscus are clump forming, slowly developing larger and larger root masses from which more and more flowering stems can emerge each year. Remember, these are Hibiscus and so will enjoy a fertile soil as well as ample moisture during the growing season for the best flowering and growth. Otherwise the only maintenance that these perennials generally require is to remove the dead stems at the end of the year.
This is the average expected mature height by width in feet or inches. Feet are represented by a single quote and inches by a double quote. Parentheses are used to indicate that the plant can potentially reach that dimension, although the sizes outside of the parentheses tend to be more typical. Under poor growing conditions plants may be slightly to significantly smaller, whereas excellent growing conditions can produce larger more vigorous plants.
USDA Cold Hardiness Zones were established to give gardeners, horticulturists, farmers, nurseries, and landscape architects a universal way to describe where a plant will survive with regard to average winter lows for a region. And these are averages, here in zone 8B ('A' represents the colder half of a zone and 'B' represents the warmer half of the zone and they are separated by about 5oF) we have seen single digits but that is the exception but should be noted by the daring gardener. Each zone is separated by 10oF and the map was updated in 2012. We will continue to use the 2012 map, as the 2023 version is unrealistic. Our zones do not always agree but we try to use our own experience as to what can be depended on to return or have known reputable gardens and or horticulturists to reliably grow that plant in zones that are usually colder but sometimes warmer than what other resources have available. For more on stretching your cold hardiness zones see the ""Growing on the Edge Growing Guide". If you do not know your zone you can find it by clicking on the "USDA Cold Hardiness Zones" link here or above.
These are the basic soil types and moisture levels where this plant will survive, not necessarily thrive. Drought resistant plants will need to be well-established, usually 2-3 years at a minimum, in the garden or landscape before they are able to withstand lengthy periods (weeks or months) without supplemental water. Most plants will grow and flower and or fruit best where they have ample moisture and nutrients available during the growing season. With that said, many plants, like prairie natives, are quite adaptable to soil types and can thrive in heavy clay as easily as a loose sandy loam.
These are the times of the year that you can expect this plant to be in flower. Most of the plants that we ship are already of flowering size and may even be in bud or flower when they are shipped but this cannot be guaranteed. The length of time a plant is able to flower is often based on its size. The more mature or better established a plant is the more resources it has to be able to expend on flowering and fruiting. Some perennials, trees, shrubs, and most vines will need about 3 years of establishment to be large enough to begin to meet their true flowering and or fruiting potential. That does not necessarily mean that they will not flower in the interim but they may not be able to flower for as long a time span. The better the growing conditions like having ample available nutrients and moisture generally equates to quicker establishment and longer flowering periods.
In general, plants will require the most nutrients when in active growth and less when dormant. For indoor plants and tropical plants grown in a warm greenhouse or atrium this may be year round. For winter growing perennials, like Louisiana Iris that go dormant in late summer, this may mean fertilizing in fall and winter. For spring and summer growing perennials, and practically all trees, shrubs, and perennial and woody vines in the garden we generally start fertilizing as early as 6 weeks prior to bud break (about Valentine's Day here in zone 8B in Louisiana) and they can be fertilized up to about 6 weeks prior to the earliest expected hard frost or freeze (about mid-August here in our gardens). This allows for tender new growth, and the entire plant really, to "harden off" prior to what could be potentially damaging temperatures and ultimately causing more harm than good.
One of the most common questions that we get is what fertilizer do you recommend? Obviously it will depend on the particular plant but a good quality, slow-release, non-burning fertilizer is what we prefer. Each time it rains or each time you water your plants are getting fed. Most of these fertilizers are either slowly dissolved or osmotically passed through the outer layer of a pellet. We use Scott's Osmocote 14-14-14 and 18-6-12 on 99% of the plants that we grow, it is more expensive than some fertilizers but we can depend on the results. DO NOT use common garden fertilizers (like 8-8-8,12-12-12) on acid loving plants as it may contain lime as a filler and so can be deadly to plants like Blueberries, Azaleas, and Camellias.
Pruning: In late winter or spring, once new growth commences, cut last years stems to about 4-6" high.Know your plants' needs prior to pruning and not all plants need to be pruned. Selection of plants that will grow to the appropriate size for the given space will help to reduce maintenance like annual pruning. LSU Agcenter uses the apt saying "Right Plant, Right Place".Woody trees, shrubs, and vines that flower on new growth or new wood are generally pruned in late winter to early spring prior to bud break.Woody trees, shrubs, and vines that flower on old wood (last year's growth) are generally pruned once the flowering season has passed and prior to bud set.Some woody shrubs (like Spirea, Blueberries, Old Garden Roses) may only need pruning about every third year and then may only need to have the oldest non-flowering stems, dead or damaged wood, and sometimes the small twiggy stems removed. These oldest 'spent canes' are typically removed near ground-level to about 6" high to make way for and to promote the emergence of younger new stems.True perennials are typically pruned once the flowering stems have died back after flowering and seed set. Normally we are only removing dead stems once they have turned brown as the plant may reabsorb some of the nutrients in the flowering stems. Dead stems can be removed all the way back to near the crown or back to living healthy stems.Tropical and subtropical plants that are grown as die-back perennials (like Lantana and the Confederate Roses in zone 8) are generally pruned once bud break has occurred in spring. The dead stems above the crown may provide some additional protection from the cold and that is why they are left over winter.Plants (think perennials, annuals, and biennials) that flower heavily and then begin to look a little ragged due the spent flowering stems may be lightly pruned during the growing season as this will clean them up and the removal of the spent flowering stems and seeds may promote repeat flowering.Some perennials, tropicals, and annuals may benefit from periodic 'deadheading'. Often the removal of spent flowers and developing seeds or fruit may promote the production of new flowers but it generally is not a required maintenance.ALWAYS use sharp bypass pruners. The anvil type pruners are great for florists who need to crush the stem for water absorption, they are not meant for general use in the garden. A clean cut heals faster and reduces the chance for disease and or die-back to occur. Sterilize your pruners periodically and sometimes even between plants if there is a chance for viruses and or other diseases to be spread between them. 152ee80cbc
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