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I would check with the manufacturer first. Tank-type water heaters are used after tankless heaters all the time, but the tank-type water heaters operate very differently, with heat exchanger systems designed to operate with a big tank of water that is usually mostly hot. Tankless water heaters have a heat exchanger that has to transfer heat from the heat source to the water at a very rapid rate, and if the incoming water is too hot, you MIGHT have issues with heat rise of the heater itself. This might just cause cycling, but there may be other issues.

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Given the existence of the above mentioned for-purpose booster, I suspect there may indeed be an issue of the heater trying to heat already heated water. All that would be required to solve this is a sensor that doesn't allow the heater to turn on above a certain incoming water temperature. They appear to charge a lot for this added feature which probably costs about 10 cents, because they can. I'm also now having a hard time finding a unit for sale that I can hook up to my extant 10AWG wiring. Most are 30A or higher. The electrical code here in Canada is more conservative than the US, and a 30A device can't be run on 30A wiring or breakers. That limits the heater size I can use to 6kW. As for playing nice with the grid, that concern is valid for whole house heaters, drawing anywhere from 15-45kW. This booster heater doesn't draw much more than a standard electric tank heater, and less than a cooking range with multiple elements running.

Thanks. That Rheem unit would work nicely, except that it requires 8AWG and a 40A breaker. Weirdly, the install instructions don't directly specify the wiring requirements, but it does say they have to comply with local codes, which contradicts another part of the manual that says to use existing wiring for the water heater. It says to hook up the existing wiring to it, then daisy chain that to the tank water heater. This is bananas. This thing draws 30A. A standard tank water heater draws about 20-25A, and will almost certainly be hooked up with (at most) 10AWG wiring. There's nothing in this setup that will prevent both of the units from running at the same time, which means 50-55A on a 30A (at most) circuit.

Yes, those are definitely the exact same unit, and even the same user manual. I think the way they are able to hook the two devices up to the same circuit is that the unit actually shuts off power to the slave tank water heater when it is actively heating; they mention a relay in the troubleshooting section relating to if the tank water heater is not heating. This is fine for a "dumb" style tank, but it's obviously less than ideal for a computer controlled device, and especially one with a compressor that you don't want repeatedly having its power cut in the middle of a cycle.

If you are looking at the smaller units be sure to check the max flow rate. A lot of the fitting look like 3/8-1/2. If you feed all the hot water for the house thru a 3/8 lines you could see some pressure problems.

You've said a couple of times that code requires each appliance to have its own circuit. I don't think this is absolutely true. I can only speak for the Canadian code, which as far as I can tell is actually more conservative than the American one. But here the default way of installing a separate cook top and wall oven is to feed them both from the same circuit. This is spelled out specifically in the code. I'd be surprised if it's different in the US. Rheem is a well established leader in water heating equipment. If they have a product manual that explicitly tells you to hook up the water heater through the device, I suspect that it is code compliant and I suspect this is because it is designed to disable one when the other is operating (in effect making the booster and tank heater operate as a single device).

By pretty much abandoned, I mean that it doesn't get used for heating the house anymore, and is not likely to do so again. The design of the system means that all water that goes into the water heater goes through the floor loop first; this is equivalent to the well just being further away, and so there is no more chance of the water stagnating as the water in any plumbing system.

To resolve this problem, replace the oil filters as soon as possible. If the smells still persist, you should contact an HVAC professional immediately to properly maintain your heater. Also, ensure that you replace your air filters after every three months or as required.

CAUTION: Increasing the water heater temperature can be dangerous. Consult with the manufacturer or dealer regarding an operable pressure relief valve, and for other recommendations. Be sure to lower the thermostat setting and make certain the water temperature is reduced following treatment to prevent injury from scalding hot water and to avoid high energy costs.

A water heater can provide an ideal environment for the conversion of sulfate to hydrogen sulfide gas. The water heater can produce hydrogen sulfide gas in two ways - creating a warm environment where sulfur bacteria can live, and sustaining a reaction between sulfate in the water and the water heater anode. A water heater usually contains a metal rod called an "anode," which is installed to reduce corrosion of the water heater tank. The anode is usually made of magnesium metal, which can supply electrons that aid in the conversion of sulfate to hydrogen sulfide gas. The anode is 1/2 to 3/4 inches in diameter and 30 to 40 inches long.

I would consider re-viewing your setup to reduce the complexity and increase reliability - always start simple with the aim of reliability then build on that. I would remove the multi sensor from being able to control the heater, and just use the thermostat built into the heater. Why? Because the multi sensors are not perfect and can crash (granted, few and far between, but why duplicate a sensor when there is one which should be very reliable built in?), or not update quick enough leading to high temperature swings.

The problem I have with the build-in sensor is that the temperature is never right. It is always either too cold or too warm and I have to adjust it all the time. The reason for that is that the sensors are on the heater itself and I am usually located on the other end of the room. I was hoping to get some sort of smart sensor on the other end of the room that could solve this problem. I also want to be able to say to Siri or Alexa to increase the temperature when I am cold without me having to get up. I am also paying a fortune every month for electricity and I was reading that the smart sensors can help reduce the bill. You are saying that the ST multi sensor is not fit for this purpose and I should only use it as emergency shut down. I like the idea of the Nest and the relay so I will do research if I can install it without modifying the property.

So I gave up and I bought a Nest thermostat and I bought a relay from my local electrical shop. Here is a video I made

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One thing to note is that the European version of the Nest (also sold in the UK) is different than the US one. The cable codes are different and the nest operates boilers on high voltage (230v) unlike the US one which operates 24V. My first thought was that I can just hook the radiator to the Nest but the maximum amps for the nest is 3A while the radiator works out around 8A. So the relay I bought from the electrical shop was 230v on both circuits (unlike the 24V US relay).

It might be that something is stuck in your engine and that is causing the burning smell. Leave and pine needles can get caught in the engine, too, as can road debris that is pulled through your front grille. Unbelievably, people have found all sorts of things in their engines, including plastic bags and, unfortunately, animals. We hope you never find the latter in your engine. If you notice a burning smell once you turn on your heater. Pull over to safety, turn on your hazard lights, and pop the hood to take a look. You may have picked up a shopping bag loose on the road.

My pipes or water heater just started making some constant banging noise yesterday. See attached video to hear it at [tinypic.com]. The water heater is a 5 year natural gas Ruud unit.

My piping is cold water through a gate valve which tees to both an expansion tank and my water heater.

If I shut the valve, it instantly stops.

Can't see anything vibrating.

Read that it might be due to sediment causing boiling in the heater, but don't think so as it occurs even if the heater was off overnight.

EDIT. I've since removed the inlet connector. When I open the valve now, I don't hear the noise, so suspect it is the heater and not piping. Supposedly, there is some sort of tube which might be bad which is located from the cold water inlet all the way down the heater, (but then the guy said probably not). I didn't remove the nipple and can't check it out.

To make it worse, my water heater is located next to my furnace, and the sound travels through the vents to every room. Please help!!!!

Edited 2 times.

Heat trap nipples!!!!!!!! Little marbles were installed on the 3/4" pipes on top of the unit to prevent hot water from leaving tank?? (Thermal expansion??) at any rate sounds like it stopped maybe a marble was lodged and set free in the tank but no wories no harm no foul ff782bc1db