You can also try powertop and turbostat from the linux-tools-common package (run sudo modprobe msr before sudo turbostat). The Git version of i7z is supposed to work for Sandy Bridge (and it works for me with a desktop i7).

Use sudo turbostat for this. The output of cat /proc/cpuinfo does not always show the real current CPU frequency but instead the maximum non-turbo frequency even when Turbo Boost is enabled and active.


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Other answers mention alternate methods to the basic CLI (Command Line Interface). I like to use Conky to do this. In the example below the Skylake CPU has a regular frequency from 800 MHz to 2600 Mhz. With turbo boost enabled the frequency can jump to 3500 MHz under heavy load.

Now you can see the turbo boost is working by looking at the real-time CPU frequency. In the following screenshot, for example, the base speed of my i5 processor is 2.5GHz, but you can see the turbo boost is kicking in and giving more than 3GHz.

You as an IObit expert.. you tell me(if you want of course) why ASC version 6 in Turbo Boost mode generates BSOD ? Is the 'Deep Registry Clean'(in case that this is a very dangerous or avoidable operation) responsible for.. or the Turbo Boost settings ?

Still.. let's say that somebody who's system is slow, heard that if he buy that program.. his system will run like new or better, or turbo. Latter on.. smb else says " Now.. DONT push that button ! This is undone ! You will destroy your programs, your games, your SYSTEM.. everything ! You fool.. You're just an unskilled user.. Go to school !

Intel continues to push the turbo power limits higher and higher, which means more heat and noise when the CPU enters high turbo boost states. The CPU does adjust its speed dynamically based on load, but it is (IMO) a bit too eager to hop to high turbo boost speeds when the workload does not call for it. Web browsing / office workloads do not really need turbo boost speeds, and there may be times when you would be willing to sacrifice speed for quiet. You can save yourself some power/heat/noise by having the CPU run at the base clock speed.

So, here are a few tricks that you can use to enable and disable turbo boost on the fly. I personally run my laptops with turbo boost disabled, using one of these methods, and I flip turbo boost on only if I need additional CPU power (maybe gaming, intense database work, or some other kind of number crunching).

Side note: If you do not see these power options, then you most likely are running Windows 10 on a system that supports modern standby. This page has a PowerShell script that you can run as administrator to restore these options. You can just copy/paste it into a PowerShell window running elevated. Thanks to @heikkuri for pointing me to this. I'm also including the script here in case something happens to that page...

With this setup, turbo boost is disabled. You can confirm by checking the Task Manager "performance" tab. The CPU speed should stay below the CPU's base frequency (probably mid-2 GHz range, depending on the CPU model), no matter what load you throw at it.

...You can set the maximum processor state value to something lower than 99% if you find that simply disabling turbo boost is not effective in achieving your desired power/heat/noise limit. Lower values will further reduce the maximum CPU speed. Moving the power slider to the right will also still remove any limits on the CPU speed.

Set the maximum processor state to 99% on the "Balanced" profile (as described above), but leave it at 100% on the "High Performance" profile. Now, turbo boost is disabled if you are in the "Balanced" profile but enabled if you are in the "High Performance" profile. You can switch between the two on the fly.

Now, there is a new setting on advanced power settings: "Processor performance boost mode". Set it to "Disabled" on the Balanced profile and leave it at the default on the High Performance profile. (Set "Maximum processor state" back to 100% on the Balanced profile as well.) ...There are a number of other settings for this one and I do not know what they all do.

Now, switching between the Balanced and High Performance profiles will disable or enable turbo boost as described in the previous section. However, using the power slider to dynamically enable or disable turbo boost does not work with this method. If you want to use the power slider then you must set "Maximum processor state" to 99%.

It isn't running as good as I expected (considering the configuration). So here is the problem: my CPU is supposed to be able to run at 3.4 GHz with that TurboBoost thing. However, it never reached that frequency and the performance isn't as good. I know the first reply on this thread will be about how it's turbo boost is enabled by default and stuff but I don't think mine is. I tried to enable it via lenovo's insanely stupid BIOS but I found no options regarding CPU at all. Just some Intel Vanderpool technology thing which, I think, has nothing to do with Turbo Boost. I also tried searching the service in Control Panel > Administrative tools > Services but I didn't find anything there as well.

Normally, computer manufacturers enabled this feature by default and the only way to access turbo boost would be through BIOS settings. You need either check with your computer manufacturer for information about support for turbo boost on new BIOS updates or through your BIOS setup screen.

In my opinion there is a problem with the implementation of the RPM/cooling algorithm in some NUC models, when Turbo Boost is ON. Similar fan throttling I can observe on NUC7i7DNHE. Nothing helped to keep the fan not throttling, except switching the Turbo Boost OFF. I don't feel strong degradation in performance and I have quiet NUC.

I tried to replicate your report but I am having mixed results, keep in mind that processors with the same model number running under the same operating conditions may see some frequency or power variance. This is a natural characteristic of silicon driven by variances in voltages, power, and leakage during the production process. See here for more details: -and-technology/turbo-boost/turbo-boost-technology.html

And tried to test with Turbo Boost off, and fan was set to turbo (not at 100%), while playing Wolfenstein:New Order and temperature was less than 70C. I'm not sure what load was, I think it was 15% and frequency was low.

Note: it is middle of summer in Croatia so temperature of room is higher, so that may cause most of the problem, or it happend before, but I didn't pay attention on temperature. Whole PC is almost one year old, never changed any BIOS settings untill now (changed turbo boost to off, and fan speed to turbo).

In boost mode, turbo mode is always turned on. That means all data points should be configured as an array of numbers (e.g. [1, 2, 3]) or a two dimensional array of numbers (e.g. [ [1, 2], [2, 3], [3, 4] ]).

Hello. I have a OMEN 15-dc000x laptop. Recently i started gaming on laptop and one weird thing happens. If the device is plugged in and i use Balanced power mode, the processor never goes beyond 1.7GHZ (My Omen has a i5 8300H with 2.3GHz normal frequency), and if i switch to Performance power plan, the processor stays all the time at 3.9 GHz and if i try to do anything that involves the processor and the graphic card (1050Ti), temperatures go straight to 90 degrees Celsius and increase like hell. I play games on Balanced mode =, but that 1.7GHz causes some problems and throttles my 1050Ti.

If the device is plugged in and i use Balanced power mode, the processor never goes beyond 1.7GHZ (My Omen has a i5 8300H with 2.3GHz normal frequency), and if i switch to Performance power plan, the processor stays all the time at 3.9 GHz

I assume you are talking about the Power Options preferred plans. With the High Performance mode, the Minimum and Maximum processor power states are both set to 100%. You can change those percentages to turn off Turbo boost and or set the minimum power used when not doing intense applications.

The controls are listed here: -nutone.com/en-us/accessory/vttouchw

it looks like it has a "turbo" mode, which initiates max rate for 4 hours. Hard to believe they would object to that. There is also a controller with a humidity monitor that kicks in at set humidity levels, I would have to talk to the code official for that. The concerns I have with it are: no reviews, slightly lower efficiency, unknown noise levels. A 6% drop in efficiency may not really be worth worrying about though. I will say that the digital controller looks really nice. No clue how the automatic air quality monitoring actually does, but seems like a step in the right direction. There's another possible benefit- I assume their controller will warn people when filters need changing. That's probably a big deal if people buy the house after me.

Tim, yes I think so, among other controllers they have. I think that the control unit may be a requirement to use any controls with the system, though I'm not 100% sure, you may be able to hardwire the boost function as well. The controller is $130 according to a google. The way I see it, that may be less money than hiring an electrician to hardwire a booster for a unit anyway.

@Akos, thanks for your suggestion. This will work for the baths but not the kitchen area though. I was also wondering if there is any way to activate the ERV when it's off. Let's say I have windows open and ventilation turned off, and I would like to use a booster function.

Tim, you can put a button anywhere to activate boost mode if that's what you are asking. I would question how much sense it would make to micromanage your ERV this much every time you open windows/etc. That sounds pretty annoying and any savings probably minimal. Perhaps you could hook up the boost to your range hood for the kitchen.

Carson, annoying indeed :) I'm in CZ 4-5 but the weather has been mild for about a week now and I keep my windows open (rural area, no shortage of fresh air). I thought about keeping ERV running constantly even with windows open, but was not sure about how practical it would be from a savings perspective. But yes, you're correct, between minimal savings and convenience, I would always choose the latter. And yes, I'm going to install the boosters in any place that needs it. Thanks for your thoughts. e24fc04721

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