Like you I live at the top of a hill (although not as long or as steep), when I got my first wheel a couple of years ago (a V5F) I wondered the same thing and would ride 200yds or so on level ground first thinking that ought to just take a bit of charge from the battery.

You will most likely not have an issue if you ride downhill very briefly. The wheel can cutoff if you do so for long enough distances to prevent overcharging and there is no way around it, even with a Onewheel.


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Just start with a full battery and try and see when the wheel complains. Then ride back up a bit, and continue downwards. Then you'll now more. From then on you'll have a better idea with what battery % to start so you end up with 100% at the bottom of the hill.

I have a very similar situation to @Nostris in the sense that i too live on a mountain with approximately 700 meters of road and it drops down about 150m from my house to the bottom of the mountain. If i charge my wheel overnight and disconnect the charging cable as i exit the house my gotway rs will start beeping and tilting back for the last 100-200 meters so my solution is just to continue to charge to 100% and before i mount the euc i lift and free spin it until i hear the 80% alarm, decelerate and mount it. Doing that will remove enough charge that i can go down the mountain at any speed doing any amount of braking.

So overall, I think it is a very tiny percentage of EUC riders that live on top of a ride route with a 15% grade. Most of us don't need to worry.

Respect the beeps!

Thankfully, there is an audible alert for pack overvoltage. If you hit the alarm, turn around and ride uphill for 1km, then continue back down.

I basically live on a giant hill, and to get into town is about 500' of elevation downhill. Usually, I leave my house on full-charge and have had 0 issues on any of my other wheels (V10F, S18, 18XL, V8F). Every time I try it on the V11 I get tilt-back and a "please repair" voice which I assume is an overheat protection; it cools down in about 30 seconds and I can keep riding.

What is happening is over-voltage / over-charging protection, and it is a common occurrence for riders going downhill.

When you're braking downhill, some amount of energy is recovered via regen braking, charging your battery in the process, despite its cells are already at their maximum voltage. This is why it's making you stop.

It is possible that the V11 is a bit more strict and careful than the others wheels, or more effective at regen in this case. It is not a defect however.

To circumvent the issue, you can burn some energy before going down like by making a little detour, or not always charge to full.

Yeah, if I ride hard for 5 minutes or so before going downhill I don't have the issue. I'm aware the board needs to dissipate the power into heat if the batteries are fully-charged. The odd thing is that NONE of my other wheels are bothered, just the V11. Glad it's not specifically my V11 though, and it's something I can work around.

This symptom is quite intriguing, at least for me. If the cause is due to overheating, how does riding for 5 minutes prior to going down make a difference? If it is overcharging or over-voltage, why it is OK for the lighter rider? Also, the "please repair " warning message is worrisome.

It must be on the edge of over voltage... the higher mass of the heavier rider has more potential energy at the top of the hill than does the lighter rider. A (small) amount of that energy is converted to regen power but I suspect that because the lighter rider has less potential energy, they're actually power neutral or slightly using power on the way down.

Using the Add Surface Information (3D Analyst) tool, I am able to add the min max and avg slope of a segment. 

However, some segments have both up and down hill portions. Some have flat portions and then down hill portions. So using the above tool is mis-leading. 

What might be best is to identify breakpoints where a sloped portion starts or stops. I can then use these breakpoints to split the line segments and then obtain slopes only for those areas.

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Downhill had its world premiere at the Sundance Film Festival on January 26, 2020, and was theatrically released on February 14, 2020, by Searchlight Pictures, the first feature film to be released under the studio's new name following The Walt Disney Company's acquisition of 21st Century Fox.[2] The film received mixed reviews from critics and grossed $9 million worldwide.

Downhill had its world premiere at the Sundance Film Festival on January 26, 2020.[7] The film was released on February 14, 2020, replacing Fox's The King's Man, which had been scheduled for that date.[8]

In the United States and Canada, Downhill was released alongside Sonic the Hedgehog, The Photograph and Fantasy Island, and was projected to gross around $4 million from 2,275 theaters in its four-day opening weekend.[9] It made $2.6 million on its first day and $5.2 million over the four days, finishing tenth.[10]

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I am into driving OTR for 3 weeks. I hauled grain locally for 30 years from the farm but no distance driving, 60 mile round trips max, and always in a 13 speed manual. I am in a Cascadia with an automatic and wondering the how best to handle steep downgrades, especially longer ones with some curves. Do you switch to manual and select a gear or leave it in auto? Use the jake brake from the top or as needed? If using the jake use 1st, 2nd or 3rd position or is that dependent on the steepness of the grade? Do you use the cruise and set it at a slow enough speed?

At the top of the hill, activate level 2 engine brake, then set your cruise control to your desired speed. That's basically all you need to do. The descent control will raise or lower engine brake levels automatically to keep you at that desired speed. In the case of a flat spot midway down the hill, it'll also apply throttle to maintain your desired speed.

I run grades in the semi-manual setting in my 12 speed Volvo (auto). Generally you will come down any given grade in the gear you climbed it. So your gear selection and jake break selections depend on:

I am in a 2019 Automatic Cascadia. I have traveled back and forth over Donner Pass between Reno and Sacramento almost daily. 75000-78000 gross from Reno to Sacramento and empty on the way back. I ALWAYS switch to manual mode and use the engine brake when going downhill. For the most part 9th gear and the 3 position on the engine brake is sufficient when loaded. When empty, 11th and #3 or sometimes 10th and #2 or #3. It is a learning process for sure. My goal is to be "geared" as such, to have to use the accelerator pedal to briefly disengage the brake to pickup a bit of speed. I use the "safe speed" formula. For example: If I have determined my safe speed to be 45 mph, I choose a gear and engine brake setting that will actually keep me below my safe speed. once I reach 40 mph i will briefly push the accelerator to release the engine brake, get back up to 45 mph, then let the engine braking slow me back down to 40 mph. I rarely use the service brakes when going down hill. You will eventually learn the different gear and engine brake settings for different weights and grades. I hope this helps. As the Colorado story has taught us, SLOWER is better on steep grades. Be safe. e24fc04721

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