So I use a booster ramming build. I max health, health regen, body damage and movement speed. I usually put the rest in reload, but recently I have been wondering if maybe bullet speed is better. Reload speed increases the number of shots, which of course adds recoil. But also, I'm pretty sure bullet speed increases the recoil of each shot. So I was wondering which one would increase my overall speed more.

i think booster is better at killing twin classes with out ambushing than annihilator but i still prefer ramming annihilator... which one do you like more (i know more people will choose annihilator lol) i think ramming annihilator is very good in sandbox 1v1, i dontknow about the booster but i prefer it over spike and i prefer annihilator over booster


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Our experience confirms this. Essentially you need to think of the Speed Booster as a manual-focus adapter. Even in good light, you'll get much faster results by focusing manually, particularly on a camera like the Sony NEX-6, which offers focus peaking. This is not surprising if you think about it, as the adapter is mating a lens optimized for phase-detection autofocus (PDAF) to a camera that uses a contrast-detection autofocus (CDAF) system.

This is probably the best review on metabones speed booster I have read until now.

 Thank you Amadou Diallo!

Chromatic aberration (CA) around the corners is an issue, that becomes a serious problem during movie capturing. 

However Sony has a paid in-camera app that can help: it is named "Lens Compensation" and you can manually create lens profiles for speed booster that will remove the CA during movie capturing. There are serious limitations though, like when you use the "Lens Compensation" app you cannot see the audio levels while capturing.

Personally, definitely not speaking for everyone, but, The only area in which i would find this reducer useful is in a situation where i needed an ultra-wide image on my APS sized sensor. For example using a 10mm lens and actually getting a 11mm image as opposed to a 16mm image. Otherwise i address "Crop factor" by simply moving father away. Sometimes "Crop Factor" is good because it can "Seemingly" increase the reach of a lens. That having been said,, If the reducer speed booster actually increased lens resolution, i would be all in tat in a heartbeat,,but we know it doesn't. The calculated increase in speed is nice , but how does it affect image quality? for example if you put a canon f1.2 lens on there and ended up with a "calculated" f-stop of 0.80 (or whatever) thats awesome,,,, but if the lens image quality is so badly diminished, what's the point?

Anyway, tats just one persons view.

Is the last sentence of the above statement correct? I don't think 50mm + speed booster on an APS-C body will create the same depth-of-field as a 53.25mm lens on a FF body. The math was provided in the previous sentence. It will only create the DOF of a 35.5mm lens on a FF body.

As expected, sharpness, contrast dropped and chromatic aberration increased. However, it is pretty much the effect you'd get if a faster lens were available (say a 50mm f/1.0, etc) for the adapter is working well enough to justify itself as a speed increaser. If you need the speed, it may be the only practical way (financial or otherwise) to obtain it.

The only possibility of clipping the on-axis ray bundle is if you attach a lens that is faster than f/1.2. The only SLR lens that meets this requirement is the Canon 50mm f/1.0. If you put that lens on the SB and open up to f/1.0 you won't get f/0.71 but rather only f/0.90 - the same as if you had attached an f/1.2 lens.

I am in total agreement. Personally I have never liked AF and find that it's virtually impossible to focus manually on the AF cameras. Be that as it may, the idea that I can use some slower lenses and actually make them faster is like a dream come true. The important thing is REAL WORLD images not sharpness charts etc. There's way too much emphasis being placed on all this techie nonsense.


I dunno about that, but the slow AF is purely an issue of electronics,, not optics,, one I'm confident will be solved as more people buy this adapter,, looking forward to fast AF on the Speedbooster II.

Exactly Rocco.. 

I agree with you .. you see what i am talking about . So people should stop complaining about how accurate this products claims are and talking about the superior technical knowledge they think they have over the designers.. 

Just use it, take photos .. if you like it great, go out and take photos .. if you don't like it.. return it and move on .. 

I have taken great photos and even had sold some in gallery shows which I took using a Kodak Box camera that have a plastic lens. 

This speed booster is just a tool, a good photographer decides if they want to use it or something else to take photographs with.

Regarding multiple speedboosters, remember that the speedbooster is going behind a lens with a finite back focal distance. Adding the speedbooster decreases that distance further (see white paper), so too many speedboosters=image inside of glass (i.e. you can't actually put a sensor there).

Totally agree with you, and BTW it doesn't really make any more sense in the English language either! Another term often used is "bright" lens, and that is what should be used all the time (especially on photography websites catering to an audience of varying levels of experience). Just because a bright lens allows you to use faster shutter speeds isn't a good reason to call it a fast lens IMO.

The choice of the term speed for a lens, is totally logical, but as some said, perhaps not language wise that obvious. But it refers to the fact that the wider the aperture, the faster it will be for the film and/or the sensor to receive the right amount of light to produce the image, hence the use of the word speed. A lens with an aperture of 1.0 is fast, because it will take a lot less time than a lens with an aperture of 5.6 to let the same amount of light through to the film and/or sensor, fast, slow, is speed.

More like the Pentax K-01 might have really flown in a different orbit if Pentax had the wit to build their own version of the speed booster into that body. (Sorry non English speakers - that is not going to translate that well)

With a Canon lens + Speedbooster mounted on a NEX, the aperture reported by the body is exactly 1 stop larger than the actual aperture set on the lens (save for lenses faster than f/1.4; the NEX can't report f-stop values smaller than f/1.0).

The reason it's reported as 1 stop brighter is b/c if you take into account the focal length reduction (0.71x), the 35mm lens with the Speedbooster is acting like a ~25mm lens on the NEX. But the physical diameter of the lens, wide open, with or without the Speedbooster, remains 35mm/1.4 = 25mm. So now you have a 25mm focal length lens with a 25mm aperture diameter. Since f/stop = focal length/diameter, your f-stop is now f/1.0.

Zoom lenses continue to evolve. This year, we saw an incredibly diverse collection of zooms that range from 'second generation' designs to models that push zoom ranges wider and longer, sometimes with faster apertures. Now it's your turn to vote for your favorite zooms of 2023.

I've created two custom LUTs to to quickly help me get better-looking images from my Sony FX6 -- when I do NOT want to shoot with S-LOG3; and I'm making them available free to anyone who wants to use them. My LUTs are called "S-CINETONE BOOSTERS" because they make it faster and easier for anyone (regardless of how inexperienced they are at color grading) to quickly improve their S-CINETONE footage. They are compatible with S-CINETONE footage that has been shot with any Sony camera that has an S-CINETONE shooting mode. Just to be clear, the LUTs are NOT monitor LUTs for the camera. These LUTs are designed to be applied to S-CINETONE footage in post with Resolve, Premiere, Final Cut Pro, and any other NLE that allows you to import custom LUTs. I'm teaching a 5-day Interview Lighting workshop in Maine next month that will give me some sample footage of human faces indoors. I'll post an update video after I've had the chance to use the LUTs on people. Maybe a third LUT will be forthcoming. We'll see.

Yes. 10Web Booster is an all-in-one solution for optimizing websites. It implements dozensof speed optimization techniques from simple minification to JS delay and critical CSS generation for frontendoptimization and Cloudflare Enterprise CDN for an even faster performance and security. There is no need to run anotherspeed optimization plugin along with 10Web.

Put simply, CDN caches a website in hundreds of different locations around the world. Thismeans that the requested content is delivered to your end user from the closest location and loads faster since it goesto the CDN server instead of your original hosting server.

We are announcing startup CPU boost for Cloud Run and Cloud Functions 2nd gen, a new feature allowing you to drastically reduce the cold start time of Cloud Run and Cloud Functions. With startup CPU boost, more CPU is dynamically allocated to your container during startup, allowing it to start serving requests faster. For some workloads we measured, startup time was cut in half.

Is there a way to use 35mm lenses on a S16 camera (with a PL mount) and have some sort of a speed booster that shrinks the S35 lenses to correctly cover the S16 camera (416, SR2/3, Aaton XTR). I know that if you add a convertor to a PL camera and you want to attach PL lenses you wont have the correct flange lens flange distance anymore, but is there a way around this?

I think for sure there would be a market, for all the reasons outlined above. Unfortunately it would require a completely new optical design to overcome the lack of flange depth space. The reason Speedboosters hit the market when they did was because of the space afforded by mirrorless camera flange depths. A focal reducer actually brings the image plane closer to the lens, so you end up having even less room for the reducing optics than the nominal difference in flange depths between lens mount and camera mount. e24fc04721

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