Nope. there's just no way my painting skills are up to getting my AMT Artemis to look anything like the Artemis. So I think I'll cheat. I have the great AXM paper model of the Artemis and the piece of card wrapped into a cylinder makes for a great looking fuel tank. Why not make the paper model into a decal? That would eliminate the need to become a master artist. So I scaled the AMX model of the core to 1/200, and started going through alll the photos I can find and the screen grabs I made of the launch and started adding what details I could find and making a few corrections to the AXM "kit". Mostly that involved re-doing the conical transition. I should have 20 segments, not the 19 as printed, and I noticed that the "gores" on the real thingaren't quite the same size. They run in a patter of fives, the widest to the right, 2 "norma"l sizes to its left, then a narrower one, and finally another normal sized. Of course, none of this would be vaguely visible in 1/200 scale.
On the core, I respaced the supports for the three large conduits to match the kit parts, which are incorrect but I'm not rebuildinging them. There is a pair of two small conduits as well, that AMT has molded into a strange shape that has a ridge in the center instead of a valley, and it doesn't seem to be in the right position anyway? I left that marked as AXM placed it. I'm thinking of adding styrene bits where AXM has the supports, as they seem to be correct, and replace the kit part with stainless wire, as the conduits are bare metal anyway. There are also a whole lot of "rivet heads", for lack of a better term, across sections of the core, and some interesting marking. I tried to add as many of them as I can find.
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In case you're wondering if this would work, I did it before to create a a wrap for the core and the rest of the markings for a Dragon? Ariane V Rosetta mission. I think it worked out really well, tho' I didn't want to alter the kit to create quite the correct number of vertical "bricks". Oh, there's the Artemis back there, with a paper b&w segment of the wrap checking the fit.
Replaced the attachment in the first post with one removing the paired conduits, as that would be the wrap that anyone would use who wasn't going to replace the kit part with a small and fiddly scratched piece. Moved the bases of the other conduits anywhere from .2 to .6mm up or down to match where the kit details appear so that they line up better. Also revised a couple details on the transition. Also updated the transition with a second version showing how it appears at some point pre-launch. There appear to be some protective covers in place over a couple of... somethings.
There are companies out there offering vinyl skin wraps for scale model rockets. I bought a couple a few years ago for the Estes Mercury Redstone and Apollo Little Joe II. Do a search on "model rocket skins"
Stalled for a little while (tiling the bathroom) on finishing the decal wrap. Rathet than just searching for images of "Artemis", the other day I realized I could also try "SLS". And, lo!, there were a couple really good, if hard to find, high-res images of the thing that have given me a few new details to fix and add to the wrap. Now it sounds like I should really "draft" the rest of the markings in 1/200 scale. That's sad to hear about the decals, because it's not such a bad little kit (Charlie Brown's comment about his Christmas tree just came to mind), it just needs a little loving. Or maybe a whole lot of loving.
The hardest part of pinting your own decals is finding decal paper. If you have a good color printer already, printing is dead easy. If you don't, you can probably search out a commericial stand-alone print shop who will be willing to do it for you. On the color laser that my print shop uses, the laser printer has to be set to it's highest "power?". Works great and they only charge for a regular color photocopy, as you've supplied the paper. So you can get multiple copies in case of error for just a couple of $.
My new kit came in today and the decals are also in register. I'm probably too scared to use them. But they are in register. It may be a reasonable option to selectively use the logo's that go on flat surfaces only. But I'll have to work on options for the few markings that aren't on perfectly flat surfaces.
Both the FSM review and the article on "masking" the kit in the current FSM lament their unresponsiveness to setting solutions. In particular, both called out not being able to get the NASA worm logos to settle over the conduit and get rid of silvering. This is where I ultimately called it and just wasn't happy enough with mine to own it. I then tried removing the decal, and then gave up.
I've used heat before for carbon fiber patters on Formula 1 undertrays. I used a heat gun instead of warm water. It worked like a charm on those horribly complex patterns of the rear defusers. But even that didn't work on these decals. The thing that worked the best was Tamiya Mark Fit Strong, but it still couldn't get it to a place where I was going to be happy to own the model. These sentiments were echoes in the above articles I referenced too. One could make it better, but couldn't make it good.
And, reading all the comments about how terrible the kit decals are, I redrafted almost all of them. This was all done on Photoshop, so it's not vector. That shouldn't matter, as there's nothing to enlarge them for, except I'll probably use them to update my 1/144 reduction of the 1/96 AXM paper model, which they should still be fine for. The markings I revised should have a better resolution/clarity than the originals and I've tried to brighten the colors closer to true.
I just pasted all my new versions over the top of the old on a scan of the kit decal sheel. On my last session alone, I had 92 separate layers. How that's possible, I don't know, as I'm not sure there are 92 separate items on the page. A lot of hours. Where the kit decals are still visible and unchanged, that's because I either have those bits updated on the side or on the (new/final?) version of the core wrap, which I just edited into my original post above. The same revised transition cone appears in both of those attachments. If I haven't revised a part of the AMT decal sheet, that means I haven't found what the decal is on any of my references, so I'm going to assume AMT found something I haven't.
Artemis is an open-source hacking system that allows you to easily apply Netcheat cheat codes to games, in similar fashion to a GameShark. Many codes come bundled with the package and you have the option of manually creating more codes. Upcoming features include codes from an online database, and the ability to enter your own codes from within Artemis.
In Artemis PS3, you have the ability to add option tags. These tags enable you to specify options for a code that has multiple effects for one address. The format for an option tag is very specific and must be used exactly as described.
A tag begins with brackets that surround an ID ([Z]), and ends with a forward slashed ID ([/Z]). This ID must be a collection of capital Z's. For instance, a tag such as [ZZZZ] has an ID of ZZZZ. [zz] is not a valid ID. Following the opening tag are the elements, or options. Each element begins with the value that the option represents, an equal sign (=), and the name of the option. Elements are separated by semicolons (;).
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The fundamental constraints will then dictate what is possible in the upper layers, such as options for high availability and scalability. Further up in the layers the flexibility increases, and one can choose swap load balancers and different client implementations without impacting the layers below.
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Apart from computing, storage, and load balancers, at this stage, we want to identify the data center's topology, network latency, and throughput. Is the client using a single datacenter, two data centers, or any other odd number? Is it an active-active, or active-passive data center topology? 152ee80cbc
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