Download Bolt Drive

Bolt is an Estonian mobility company that offers ride-hailing, micromobility rental, food and grocery delivery (via the Bolt Food app), and carsharing services. The company is headquartered in Tallinn and operates in over 500 cities in more than 45 countries in Europe, Africa, Western Asia and Latin America. The company has more than 150 million customers and more than 3 million driver and courier partners.[2] The company has plans for an initial public offering in 2025.[3]

The EUV's Super Cruise is similar to Tesla's Autopilot, that company's standard driver assistance system. Like Super Cruise, Autopilot steers in a lane and keeps up with traffic. When compared to Teslas with optional "Full Self-Driving Capability," an advanced driver assistance system that costs $10,000 and despite the name isn't fully self-driving, the EUV's Super Cruise trails behind. But the EUV has an important bonus.

Download Bolt Drive

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Planning for this trip seemed to involve the same amount of effort as filing a flight plan to fly a Cessna cross country. My go-to site for this was PlugShare, a well-known source of available charging stations throughout the world that is maintained largely by its users. Just about every known charging location is listed on the site with new ones popping up weekly. They list everything from available 120V outlets to the fastest DC charging stations out there. EV drivers can check-in to these stations and leave reviews and comments about them as they do. In this way, the next driver to come along has a good idea if the station is working or not, or how well it may be working. The website is an open-source, constantly updated compendium of EV charging options.

This is a replacement bolt for the gear set. If using the recommended drill set, these should last an estimated 2,000 to 3,000 cycles. Using a 1/4 or 3/8 impact will shorten your life to half that. Drive bolts are considered wear items and are not covered under warranty. Use of 1/2 impacts voids binder warranty immediately. Here is an instructional video on drive bolt replacement.

Are you positive you had the gear on the wright way? You can put it on backwards, and then the bolt will not properly clamp it. Do you have a manual and did you look at the pic in regards to which way the gear goes? It is EASY to put it on backwards.

Also, since that bolt is KNOWN to come loose-even when you have the gear on the correct direction-I always use a little red loc-tite. I don't go crazy with it, but I do put enough on there that it will prevent that from happening. Yes, I learned the hard way as just like you my bolt came loose but did not do much damage to the inside of the cover. It did however damage the threads in the end of the crank where the bolt threads in. Since your bolt came out-you better check those threads carefully. I ended up Heli-coiling that side of my crank because the threads got messed up-then I used red loc-tite and I have not had the bolt back out again. I used a new bolt as well.

Pretty sure the gear is in correctly... I'm pretty good about stacking parts when disassembled so I put them back in correctly. Also, looking at the manual is says "install with the flat side out"... without taking things fully apart and just looking at the gear, the outside is flat looking... i'll tear it down more when i get new parts and see if the back side is more flat. I ordered a right side case cover new bolt, new seals, some loctite, etc...

I put a flat head screw driver (with tape on it) between where the primary and clutch gear meet so they wouldn't move.... it was solid... no marks left on gears. It was torqued good... doubled checked it.

EDIT: for clarification how I ended up at this point. While I was tightening the nut at the red arrow, I (forgot that I) still had the nut at the blue arrow in place, which caused the wheel to jam.Removing the nut at the blue arrow and tightening nuts from drive side to non-drive side was the way to go.

Though it's the first electric car that is both affordable and has a range over 200 miles, the Chevy Bolt is almost aggressively normal. Slipping into the driver's seat, it feels like any number of other cars I've driven. There's a steering wheel, a couple of pedals, a shift knob, and all the other stuff one expects from a car built in 2016. The only hint to the high-tech infrastructure hiding beneath the floor is the complete lack of noise when I hit the power button.

Until the Chevy Bolt came along, buying an EV meant making a sacrifice. Either you picked something like the Nissan Leaf that couldn't really drive very far on a charge or you got a Tesla that was terrific but very expensive. Thus far, EV's have only been purchased by enthusiasts. The Chevy Bolt is meant to change all that, though it's going to be an uphill climb to convince the average buyer to even consider an electric car.

Because the Bolt I drove wasn't the final product, we'll hold off on giving the Bolt the full Verge review treatment, but the first word that comes to mind is "ordinary." And I mean that as a big compliment. The Bolt doesn't feel different from any other car: you get in, press a start button, shift into drive, and go.

But thanks to the hefty battery, you really don't have to worry. Driving style will matter most to what range you actually get, but using the heat or air conditioning, outside temperature, and the terrain all play a factor as well. On my drive, an admittedly controlled one thanks to the precise directions issued by Chevrolet's PR department, I managed to cover 236 miles and the car claimed I could go another 38 miles before I ran out of juice.

There are two main drive modes. Shift into "D" and the Bolt acts just like a regular car. It will slowly creep forward if you take your foot off the brake and gradually slow if you let off the accelerator. But shift into the oddly labeled "L" (I suspect it stands for "Low" but I have no idea why), and the car behaves much more like an EV: no more creeping forward and the car will jump into an aggressive regenerative braking mode when you lift off the throttle. This improves range but does take a bit of getting used to. A paddle on the back of the steering wheel adds even more regenerative braking in either mode, and, when used in conjunction with "L" on the gearshift, means a talented driver can just about avoid using the brake pedal entirely.

there is a hard rubber plug at the top right hand side of the rear of the engine block, where the bell housing mates up with it. The bolts that connect these two pieces are 12mm heads. Personally, I use an offset box wrench to reach them as that is the easiest thing I have found to reach around the wiring and hoses in that area. I also use a 22mm socket on a breaker bar to turn the engine (bringing each bolt into position) and to hold the engine in place while turning the bolt. Once they are broken loose, they are very easy to turn and can be removed (ane replaced on reassembly) by hand for a good portion of the threads. Particularly if you have small and nimble fingers, this makes it a lot easier to not drop the bolts behind the flex plate (drive plate). Hope this helps!

I bought the Snap-on "roto ratchet" in 1/4 inch just for these bolts. Now Gearwrench makes a much cheaper set. I also stuf something in the hole incase I loose one - even when removing the bolts (not just for installation)

BTW A trick I use is I take a paint stick and draw a line from each bolt hole towards the center. This line I can see through the holes in the flexplate and makes finding/aligning that first bolt easier when reinstalling the bolts.

I find it easieast to remove the throttle body (four bolts, and move out of the way, no need to remove cables, etc.) and the airs flow regulator on the passenger side of the intake manifold near the throttle body (at least I assume it is an air flow regulator). There is a coolan hose in the back of that one to disconnect, the other in the front need not be pulled, just take out the three bolts securing it to the intake manifold and move it out of the way. Also, helps to pull the vacuum hoses and onbolt the metal bracket holding the wire harness connectors. May sound like a lot, but really isn't much work. You can then get a breaker bar with a 6 point socket on the bolts through the access port quite easily. position the bolt to the (slightl lower) left of the access port so that you can get leverage against the bell housing. this will prevent rotation of the engine/flex plate and without the need for special tools to hold the crank shaft pulley or any such thing. 2351a5e196